Climbs 69
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 216m a.s.l
Faces E

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Jalon Valley © Chris Craggs

Crag features

Peña Roja (also know as Lliber after the local town) is one of the most popular crags in the Xaló Valley. The routes are generally vertical or gently overhanging and some of the rock is quite hard on the fingers. The setting is tranquil and there is a good collection of tough wall-climbs. There are also a few slippery lower-grade routes on the grey slab at the left-hand edge of the cliff, although they are not that good.

The crag is very sheltered and steep enough to stay dry in light rain. The bowl shape of the cliff means that it can be very hot here, although it does go into the shade by mid-afternoon making it ideal for slow-starters on hot days.

Approach notes

The best approach is from Benissa (N332 and/or AP-7 junction 63 depending on whether you are coming from Calp or the motorway). From here take either the CV-745 via Senija, or the CV-750, towards Xaló/Jalon. On entering the town, turn right towards Lliber then right again at a roundabout. Just before entering Lliber, make a sharp left turn down a ramp which leads into the concrete storm drain. Drive down here and park in the almond grove opposite the crag (muddy and slippery after wet weather). On very rare occasions the storm drain on the approach can fill with water, independent of the weather (there is a hydro-electric plant upstream) - keep an eye out since you will struggle to get your car out if this happens (although it is very rare).

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Left my camera here on 16th December. If anyone spots it could it please be passed onthe orange house.
Dervey - 18/Dec/13
Really delightful quiet crag.
Kafoozalem - 10/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 Problema Izquierda 5c 100
3 Como un loco 6a * 159
4 Sansón sin pilila 6a * 217
5 Sansón y dalila 6a * 213
6 La desarrugada 6b+ * 84
7 Agárrate como puedas 7a * 21
8 Puta hila 6c+ 7
9 Toro salvaje 7a * 11
10 Hall 9000 6c+ * 14
11 El pasa de la dende 6a 105
12 De la misa, la mitad 6c 21
13 Chupito de Orujo 6a 18
14 Through the Magic Window 5c ** 117
15 Through the Magic Door 6a ** 269
16 Soca una igualita 6b * 106
17 Techno manía 7a+ ** 52
18 Tarzan de las monodedos 7b 6
19 La bella 7b ** 103
20 La bestia 7b+ 3
21 Caprichosa 6b ** 155
22 Sulacco 7a+ ** 100
23 Fisura Yablonski 7a ** 59
24 Caballo loco 7a+ * 19
Climb name Grade
25 Muévete un huracán 6c * 39
26 Siempre en alguna parte 6c ** 72
27 Lliberpool 6b+ *** 317
28 Le Baton 7b ** 31
29 El desafio 8a * 12
30 Pan y circo 7b+ ** 13
31 Sin tarjeta de presentación 6c+ *** 136
32 Maragda 7c ** 11
33 Roja techo 7b+ ** 10
34 Rockadictos 6c+ *** 99
35 La Llibertine 6a+ ** 243
36 New Groove 7a+ ** 32
37 Roja Techno Direct * 7b+ *  
  Right Side
39 Groove_and_wall 6b+ ** 15
  Sector Alejandria
41 Pranayama 7a ** 11
42 Benvigut Alesandria 7a *** 12
43 Higuerita direct 7b 3
44 Chicharra Man 7a 12
45 Me Cago en el Amor 8a 9
46 Amor y fe 7b 11
47 Los Espantanenas 7a+ 4
48 Salamandra 6c+ 4
Climb name Grade
49 Libertaria 6b 7
50 Tontito 7a 4
51 Via una
-
5c 3
52 Via dos
-
6a+ 6
53 Via tres
-
6b 6
54 Via cuatro
-
6b 4
55 Right of Caves Route 3 6c * 3
56 Espolois
-
6b *** 3
57 Malasombra * 7b+ ** 4
58 Matar al Dron * 7a+ ** 4
59 Unknown * 7a+ * 2
60 Cantos Rebeldes * 6c ** 5
61 Ines y Chocolate *
-
6c+ *** 2
62 Dsespere * 7c ** 1
63 Nexus 6 * 7c ** 1
64 Nexus 6 /Dsespere link * 7c ** 1
65 Yo Sobrevivi a los 80 * 7a * 2
66 Hiena *
-
7b ** 1
67 E un Mondo difficcile *
-
7a 2
68 El amor es un crimen perfecto *
-
7a ** 3
69 La perturbacion de la fuerza *
-
7b+ ** 1
70 Sin Perdon *
-
7b+ ** 1
71 El poder del bidedo *
-
7b ** 1
72 Extreme right hand routes on crag * 6b 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RD