Climbing banned in Spain

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Lamoncloa (Spanish Government) link with more info

Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kyle climbs with style. 7b redpoint © Ramon Marin

Crag features

L'Ocaive is the rocky tower south west of Ondara and Pedreguer. It is a large and rather vegetated looking crag which still has scope for further development. Most of the existing routes on the main face are in the mid-grades, giving pleasant climbing on steep, pocketed slabs. More-recent developments have concentrated on the most impressive feature of the crag, a large overhanging bay high on its right-hand side, this has increased the number of hard routes here.

A fine north-west-facing tower of a crag that is in the shade until mid-afternoon and thus is an ideal venue on hot days. Most of the cliff dries quite quickly but it is exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

L'Ocaive is situated south west of the small town of Pedreguer, which is just off the AP-7 to the north of Benissa and Calp. Turn off the AP-7 at junction 62, signed 'Ondara', then follow signs towards Pedreguer first on the N332, then turn right onto the CV-724. On the edge of Pedreguer, bear right at a small roundabout (signed towards Benidoleig). About 3km down this road, the crag is obvious on the hillside to your left. Turn left up a short track which is almost opposite a small surfaced road. You can also approach from Alcalalí by following the signs for Pedreguer. Park at the first level area up the track. Walk up the continuation track to a grotty flat spot. From the right-hand corner of this follow a good path rightwards up the hill and turn left onto a choice of paths that lead back left to the foot of the face. 

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
At the far left end of the crag, near 'The Fly' are numerous newly equipped lines. Some of these are under the massive boulder, some are below and left of the boulder (when viewing from below). Grades for these start at 5 but are mostly harder. A great sector of the crag when the weather is hot as there's virtually no sun on it
Mark Eddy - 17/Jan/18
The road up to the old quarry is horrendous. It is better to park lower down at the olive/almond groves. I dont think anyone would object.
icnoble - 12/Mar/08
The 7 km post on the approach is getting faded and is for an old road number. Better off to look for the new CV720 48km sign 20m further down the road to pedruger. P.S The locals seem to park up by the old quarry.
Mark Lloyd - 21/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Placas Tochas
2 Lagarto cachas 7b+ 1
3 Signs of Life 6c 3
4 Action J 5a * 4
5 The Fly 6a 3
6 El bordillo de ilustro 4a 60
7 Cuerpo de mujer 6a ** 82
8 La esquina asesina 6a+ ** 62
9 Ocaive placas 4c * 72
10 Aluncina con la esquina 5c * 92
11 Correcte 7a *** 6
12 Si ta cais ta codos 6a 27
13 Si ta cais ta codos Extension 6c *** 6
14 No m'aclara 6a * 63
15 No m'aclara Extension 6b ** 39
16 El grajo del carajo 6b * 51
  Sector Maniaticos
18 Plac Manía 6a+ *** 132
19 Plac Mania (P1)
-
6a ** 1
Climb name Grade
20 No t'as veras 6a+ ** 87
21 Ampárate, no me toques 6a+ ** 77
22 Hombres de papel 6a * 120
23 El medio de Icaro 6c+ * 11
24 96 octanos 6a+ ** 63
25 Piel de gato 6a ** 79
26 El Incrédulo 6a 14
27 Corazón salado 6a+ * 28
28 Ella la araña 5c * 71
  Sector Cuevas
30 Anasazi
-
7c 1
31 Alimax
-
7a  
32 Ostia Expansive 7b ** 15
33 Momo 7b 3
34 Basket case left-hand finish 7b+ ** 10
35 Basket Case 7a+ ** 40
36 Mala hierbe 6b+ * 36
37 La Pricessa de la Llosa 6b+ 4
38 Tengo 7a ** 13
Climb name Grade
39 Paraberol 7a ** 6
40 Ingeniarla urbana 8a *** 1
41 Rosamonte 6c+ *** 106
42 Los primos 6c+ *** 42
43 Trocha calimnotaxa 7a ** 26
44 Route 7.5 7b+ ** 1
45 Cantxaca 7b ** 44
46 Cantaxa/La culture del miedo link-up 7c+ ** 2
47 La culture del miedo 8a *** 13
48 El Camino de les Flores 8c *** 2
49 Palestina 7c ** 25
50 Gandalf 6c *** 124
51 Gandalf P1 only 6b+ *** 2
52 Hole in One 7c * 2
53 Glue to Go 7b+ ** 15
54 The Unknown Wall 7c+ *  
55 Rubble 6c+ 3

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