Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, Spain has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Kyle climbs with style. 7b redpoint © Ramon Marin
L'Ocaive is the rocky tower south west of Ondara and Pedreguer. It is a large and rather vegetated looking crag which still has scope for further development. Most of the existing routes on the main face are in the mid-grades, giving pleasant climbing on steep, pocketed slabs. More-recent developments have concentrated on the most impressive feature of the crag, a large overhanging bay high on its right-hand side, this has increased the number of hard routes here.
A fine north-west-facing tower of a crag that is in the shade until mid-afternoon and thus is an ideal venue on hot days. Most of the cliff dries quite quickly but it is exposed to the wind.
L'Ocaive is situated south west of the small town of Pedreguer, which is just off the AP-7 to the north of Benissa and Calp. Turn off the AP-7 at junction 62, signed 'Ondara', then follow signs towards Pedreguer first on the N332, then turn right onto the CV-724. On the edge of Pedreguer, bear right at a small roundabout (signed towards Benidoleig). About 3km down this road, the crag is obvious on the hillside to your left. Turn left up a short track which is almost opposite a small surfaced road. You can also approach from Alcalalí by following the signs for Pedreguer. Park at the first level area up the track. Walk up the continuation track to a grotty flat spot. From the right-hand corner of this follow a good path rightwards up the hill and turn left onto a choice of paths that lead back left to the foot of the face.
|At the far left end of the crag, near 'The Fly' are numerous newly equipped lines. Some of these are under the massive boulder, some are below and left of the boulder (when viewing from below). Grades for these start at 5 but are mostly harder. A great sector of the crag when the weather is hot as there's virtually no sun on it|
Mark Eddy - 17/Jan/18
|The road up to the old quarry is horrendous. It is better to park lower down at the olive/almond groves. I dont think anyone would object.|
icnoble - 12/Mar/08
|The 7 km post on the approach is getting faded and is for an old road number.
Better off to look for the new CV720 48km sign 20m further down the road to pedruger.
P.S The locals seem to park up by the old quarry.|
Mark Lloyd - 21/May/06
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