UKC

Climbs 432
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

Rainbow over Fair Head © bdupasquier

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland. A big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. In the E2-E5 range there are more than 100 ** or *** routes. The scope for new lines is vast, and large sections remain unclimbed.

The most popular routes are the shorter and more easily accessed, either from Murlough Bay or the Grey Man's Path on the 'dark side', or by the Ballycastle Descent Gully to the west. The most frequently visited of all are the excellent single-pitch lines on the Prow, which are even showing a bit of wear and tear these days. The tall, intimidating walls in the middle of the crag see less traffic, but are highly recommended to the more adventurous visitor.

As is the nature of a north-facing dolerite crag, on routes that have not been climbed for a while it is worth abseiling the line to clear out cracks, brush lichen and remove any flakes that have come loose.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Small Crag
2 Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c * 13
3 Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b * 7
4 Droughting About
-
HS 4b 5
5 Elvis Lives HS 4b 3
6 Dirty Elvis VS 4c 1
7 Diggers Delight E1 5b 1
8 PP
-
VS 4b * 5
9 The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
10 The Stump
-
HS 4b 3
11 Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 4
12 Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
13 Downward Bound E2 5c 2
14 Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b * 20
15 Pat's Route
-
VS 4c * 27
16 Duck Soup
-
VS 4c * 8
17 One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b * 19
18 The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c * 20
19 Second Choice
-
S 4a 3
20 Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 4
21 Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 20
22 Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 17
23 Peace through Nudism VS 4b 7
24 Gravy Booby E1 5b 3
25 Wink
-
VS 4c 1
26 Santana
-
VS 4b 10
27 Screeboar the Omniscient E2 5b/c 5
28 Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 6
29 Peas n' Carrots E2 5c * 4
30 Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 18
31 Easy Go
-
S 3c 6
32 Left Crack
-
VD 22
33 Quare Craic HS 4c 10
34 Central Crack
-
VD 12
35 Right Crack
-
S 7
36 Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 2
37 Clean Break
-
VS 4c 5
38 Plan 9 from Outer Space HVS 5b * 8
39 Thunderchild
-
E3 6b * 1
40 Nobody Move E4 6a ** 1
41 Nobody Get Hurt E4 6b ** 1
42 Run the World
-
E4 5c  
43 Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a * 3
44 A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 2
45 Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 3
46 Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 2
47 Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 3
48 Phoenix
-
VS 4c * 8
49 Living Doll
-
E2 5c * 2
50 Morrigan
-
E2 5b * 1
51 Snatch of the Day VS 5a * 8
52 Focus
-
VS 4c * 11
53 Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b * 3
54 The Wall of Jer'n Co. E5 6a 1
55 Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a * 8
56 Fenenstron
-
HS 3
57 Astazou
-
VD 7
58 A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 4
59 Scornflake
-
HVS 5a * 12
60 Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a * 4
61 J L Seagull
-
HS 4b * 17
62 Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
63 Foxbat VS 4c 7
64 Fissure Fuar VS 4b * 25
65 Christine
-
HS 4a 2
66 Paradigm
-
VS 5a 3
67 Rubberwrist HS 4b 19
68 Juniper Dodge E1 5b 3
69 Spinola
-
S 4a * 58
70 Pitchfork
-
S 4a 20
71 Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c * 26
72 Bullrush
-
VS 4c * 38
73 The Sting
-
HVS 5b * 17
74 Morning
-
S 4a 7
75 Greased Frightening
-
VD 4
76 Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 6
77 Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a 1
78 Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
79 Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
80 Flay
-
VS 4c 14
81 Hejira
-
E3 5c * 5
82 Fuschia VS 4b * 20
83 Sycamore VS 4c * 1
84 Hazelnut Arete HVS 5b 1
85 Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b * 16
86 Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c * 18
87 Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c * 1
88 Corner Variant HVS 5a 1
89 Glipe
-
VS 4c 2
  The Middle Crag
91 Jug Hands
-
E1 5b * 1
92 Solid Bond
-
E1 5b *  
93 A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a **  
94 Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c ** 2
95 Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b ** 3
  Below the Main Crag
97 Trivial Pursuit
-
E1 5c  
98 Saginaw Song
-
S 4c 1
  Binnagapple Area
100 December
-
HVS 5a ** 81
101 Duais Arete E7 6b ***  
102 Duais E1 5b 7
103 Poor Relation E1 5b ** 19
104 Long Runs the Fox E9 6c ***  
105 Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 3
106 Raglan Road E3 6a *** 14
107 Raglan Road Direct E6 6a ***  
108 Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c * 1
109 Curser
-
E2 5b  
110 Doldrum E2 5c ** 9
111 Clarion
-
VS xs 1
112 Hurricane E2 5b *** 117
113 Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c *** 21
114 The Vital Spark E2 5c ** 8
115 Green Corner
-
HS xs  
116 An Empty Book E8 6b ***  
117 Visual Contact
-
E3 6b ** 5
118 Darth Vader Lives
-
HVS xs  
119 Rusty Halo E4 6a *** 19
120 Serem
-
HVS xs  
121 Cake Walk E3 5c ** 4
122 Toby Jug
-
E1 5b ** 121
123 The Brasser
-
E2 5c *** 68
124 Sandpiper
-
E2 5c *** 95
125 Striapach HVS 5a * 8
126 Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a *** 95
127 Blade Runner
-
E3 5c ** 24
128 Track of the Cat E4 6a *** 49
129 The Dark Side
-
E8 6c *** 5
130 Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
131 Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 4
132 Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
133 Earnshaw's Route VS  
134 Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
135 Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a *** 1
136 Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
137 Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
138 The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
  Grey Man's Path East
140 Night Rider E5 6a *** 1
141 Lost Highway E5 6a ** 2
142 Polaris E5 6b ** 1
143 Njold's Saga E3 5c 1
144 Njold's Saga Direct
-
E3 6a **  
145 Thor E3 5c ** 4
146 Liv E3 6a *** 2
147 Baldur E3 5c ** 1
148 Odin E3 5c ** 3
149 Cu Uladh HVS 5a 1
Climb name Grade
150 The Grey Man E4 5c **  
151 Soylent Green E1 5b * 2
152 Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b 1
153 Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c *  
154 Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
155 The Rocafella
-
E7 6c *** 2
156 The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b * 4
157 The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
158 Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
159 Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b **  
160 Pacemaker
-
E3 5c 1
161 Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 8
162 Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
163 Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
164 World of Suits
-
VS 4c 4
165 Coaster
-
HS xs  
  Grey Man's Path West
167 Mainstream
-
E4 6a *  
168 Child's Play
-
E3 5c *  
169 Paralyzed Power E6 6b *** 2
170 Low Profile
-
E3 5c * 3
171 Power Play
-
E4 6a *  
172 Zulu HVS 5a 1
173 Burn Up
-
E1 5a *** 161
174 Abyssinia E3 5c *** 4
175 The Famished Road HVS 5a 5
176 Creeper E1 5b * 2
177 Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c ** 1
178 Kraken E2 5b  
179 Cat's Malacky E2 5c  
180 Saladin E5 6b  
181 Thran E2 5c  
182 Infidel E5 6b *** 2
  The White Lightning Amphitheatre
184 Black Magic
-
E4 6a ** 1
185 Born to Run E4 6a *** 44
186 Hallowe'en E4 6a *** 35
187 Hallowe'en Arete E4 6b *** 17
188 Crusader E4 6a ** 5
189 Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
190 Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a *  
191 The Icarus Gun E3 6a ** 1
192 The Slope
-
E3 5c  
193 The Badlands
-
E4 6a **  
194 Day Tripper
-
E3 6a ** 1
195 Streets of Fire E3 6a *** 12
196 White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
197 Zeus
-
E3 5c  
198 The Weasel
-
E2 5c ** 1
199 Seabhac E6 6b *** 1
200 Broc
-
E3 5c *  
201 Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
202 November
-
HVS 5a 2
203 New City Allstars
-
E1 5b * 3
204 Martin's Route
-
E2 5b * 2
205 Scarecrow
-
E2 5c ** 10
  Bird Hide Block Area
207 Samhna
-
HS xs  
208 King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
209 Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
210 Rumours E5 6a ***  
211 Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b * 1
212 Raven E2 5b 3
213 Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
214 Back to the Future 8 E4 6a ** 5
215 Blackout
-
E5 6a *** 2
216 Scorpion E3 5c *** 4
217 Something Horrible E3 6a 1
218 Walk on the Wild Side E1 5b * 2
  An Bealach Rúnda Area
220 Un Jour, Peut-Etre E6 6b *** 2
221 Where the Wild Things Are E5 6b *** 3
222 An Gobán Saor E1 5b * 10
223 The X-Men E3 6a *** 21
224 The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
225 An Bealach Rúnda E1 5b *** 143
226 An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c ***  
227 Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
228 Northern Exposure E5 6b *** 14
229 Waiting for the Sun E4 6a *  
230 Flashdance E2 5b  
231 Peacadh Marfach E2 5b  
232 Absolute Zero E5 6b **  
233 Give Up E4 6b **  
234 Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c * 1
235 AD 43
-
E5 6b **  
236 Dark Forces E3 6a *** 18
237 Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b *  
238 Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a **  
239 Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c *  
240 Superpod
-
E7 6c **  
  The Terraces
242 Tristan E3 5c ** 4
243 Iseult E4 6a ** 4
244 Uisce faoi Thalamh E2 5c * 11
245 The Artful Dodger E2 5b ** 3
246 Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
247 Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
248 Blockbuster E2 5c *** 34
249 Herbivore HVS xs 1
250 The Vandals
-
E2 5c ** 5
251 Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b * 4
252 Silent Running
-
E4 5c ** 1
253 Aifric E2 5c *  
254 Easy Rider E2 5b * 3
255 Fired Earth
-
E5 6b ** 2
256 Birth Rite
-
E5 6a ** 1
257 Bates's Motel E3 5c ** 6
258 Solid Mandala E3 6a ** 4
259 ESP VS xs  
260 Clontarf E3 5c  
  Rathlin Wall Area
262 Roaring Meg VS 5a ** 94
263 Faerie Stories E6 6b *** 1
264 Cúchulainn E2 5c *** 67
265 Death or Glory E5 6a *** 2
266 London Calling E5 6b **  
267 Viking HVS xs  
268 Lochlannach E3 6a *  
269 Waist Deep in Alligators E4 6a *** 5
270 Little Martha
-
S 4b 3
271 Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 3
272 Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a *** 15
273 Spirited Away E7 6b ***  
274 Cinnabar
-
E2 5c * 6
275 Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a *** 12
276 Puritan
-
E2 5c  
277 Tech Duinn E7 6b ** 1
278 Tír na nÓg E6 6a ** 3
279 Reilig
-
E3 5c ** 2
280 XL
-
E4 6a *  
281 XL (Variation Start)
-
E4 6a  
282 Fortune and Glory D * 1
283 Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b **  
284 Talking Heads
-
E4 6a ** 18
285 Muck Savage
-
HVS xs 1
286 Licence to Kill E4 5c **  
287 Cool Hand Luke E2 5c * 5
288 The Hustler
-
E3 6a *** 37
289 Conchubair
-
E2 5c *** 73
290 The Mask E5 6a *** 41
291 Face Value E4 6a *** 88
292 Flying Lizards E3 6a ** 2
293 Smashing Pumpkins E6 6a *  
294 Full of Energy, Ready 2 Party E5 6a *** 1
295 The Stoat E2 5c ** 14
296 Judgement Day E7 6b *** 1
297 Heaven Can Wait E4 6a ** 1
298 Promised Land E4 6a *** 41
Climb name Grade
299 The Complete Scream E8 6b *** 3
300 Primal Scream E6 6a *** 28
301 Blind Pew E2 5b *** 115
302 End Game E5 6a *** 3
303 Mizen Star E2 5b *** 100
304 Titanic
-
E2 5c *** 50
305 Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b ** 1
306 Salango
-
E3 5c *** 64
307 The Fame Game E4 6b ** 3
308 Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start) E3 5c ** 1
309 Equinox E2 5b *** 143
310 A Bad Skin Day E7 6c *** 3
311 The Big Skin E8 6c ***  
  The Wall of Prey
313 The Rathlin Effect E8 6c ***  
314 Above and Beyond E6 6b *** 16
315 Below and Behold E7 6c ***  
316 Once You Go Black You Never Go Back E7 6c ***  
317 Where the Grass is Green E7 6c ***  
318 The Wall of Prey E5 6b *** 75
319 The Wall of Prey (Direct Start) E5 6b ***  
320 Way of the Jive Monkeys E7 6b *** 3
321 Taming the Tiger E6 6b ***  
322 Phil E5 6b **  
323 Styx
-
E7 6c *** 2
324 Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b *** 1
  Ballycastle Descent Gully East
326 Hell's Kitchen HVS 5a *** 239
327 Hell's Kitchen Arete E6 6a *** 24
328 A Rite of Passage E4 6b  
329 Two Sides to the Story E4 5c  
330 Manannán E1 xs  
331 Ocean Boulevard E3 5c *** 54
332 Aoife E2 5b ** 121
333 Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
334 Girona
-
VS 5a *** 300
335 Musarat
-
E4 6a * 2
336 Chieftain
-
VS 4b ** 215
337 Taoiseach
-
VS 4c * 112
338 Cyclone
-
E3 5c * 1
339 Racing Line
-
E6 6b **  
340 Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a * 36
341 Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
342 April
-
E1 5b * 33
343 April (Variation Finish)
-
E1 5b ** 53
344 The Brat
-
VS 4b 33
345 Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 11
346 Cruthin
-
S 8
  Ballycastle Descent Gully West
348 Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 6
349 Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c * 1
350 Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b * 6
351 Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
352 Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 2
353 Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b * 3
354 Argosy E1 5a * 4
355 Odyssey VS 4c ** 70
356 Odyssey (Variation)
-
E1 5b 2
357 Dearg Doom VS 4c * 8
358 Atlantic City
-
E1 5b *  
359 The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
360 Sodbuster
-
VS 4c * 3
361 Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
362 End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
363 Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
364 The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
  The Prow
366 Five Gears in Reverse E1 5b 1
367 Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
368 Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b ** 9
369 Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
370 Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
371 Mojave
-
E3 5c  
372 Thunder Road
-
E3 5c *** 10
373 Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c ** 9
374 The Doffer
-
E1 5b * 7
375 Black Taxi
-
E1 5b * 14
376 Darkness
-
E2 5c ** 33
377 Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b ** 69
378 Thunderhips
-
E1 5b ** 48
379 Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a 1
380 Fireball
-
E1 5b *** 195
381 Midnight Cruiser E1 5b *** 311
382 Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a * 2
383 Marconi E3 5c *** 112
384 The Embankment
-
E2 5c *** 138
385 Railroad
-
E1 5b *** 248
386 Balooba
-
VS 4c 19
387 Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c * 31
388 Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 51
389 Revival
-
HVS 5a 19
390 Curlew
-
VS 4c 56
391 Contortions
-
VS 4c 37
392 Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 2
393 Contractions
-
VS 5a 37
394 Foxy
-
HS 9
395 Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 85
396 Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b *** 216
397 GBH
-
E3 6a *** 109
398 The Black Thief
-
VS 4b *** 388
399 The Fence
-
VS 4c *** 311
400 The Offence
-
HVS 5a 78
401 Residue
-
HS 4a 1
402 Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 6
403 Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
404 La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 14
405 Bramble
-
S 38
406 Driodar na hAille
-
HS 18
407 Simple Minds
-
E1 5b * 45
408 Salamander
-
VS 4c 11
  Farrangandoo
410 Gunther Grass
-
S 7
411 Casablanca VS 4c 26
412 Cadiz
-
E1 5c 3
413 Cairo
-
HVS 5a 4
414 Fargo
-
E3 5c  
415 Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
416 The Kerb
-
E3 5c **  
417 Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c ** 2
418 Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b *** 47
419 Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a *** 13
420 Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a *** 86
421 Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 2
422 Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 2
423 Alleycat HVS 5b 2
424 Samson VS 4c * 4
425 Lazarus VS 4c * 30
426 Hard Rain E1 5b 8
427 Jezebel HVS 5b * 13
428 Velocette VS 4b * 7
429 Providence HVS 5a 4
430 The Squirt VS 4b 3
431 Essence
-
E3 5c  
432 Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
433 Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
434 Kor
-
E3 5c  
435 Joy Division
-
E2 5c 1
436 Big Sky
-
E2 5c * 1
437 The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b 1
438 Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
439 The Dharma Bums
-
E2 5c **  
440 Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 3
441 Flashover
-
E3 5c  
442 Kashubia
-
HVS 5a *  
443 Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
444 Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
445 Shere Khan
-
E2 5c **  
446 Lionheart
-
E4 6a *  
447 Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

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