Climbs 423
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

Rainbow over Fair Head © bdupasquier

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland - a big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Small Crag
2 Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c * 14
3 Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b * 7
4 Droughting About
-
HS 4b 5
5 Elvis Lives HS 4b 3
6 Dirty Elvis VS 4c 1
7 Diggers Delight E1 5b 1
8 PP
-
VS 4b * 5
9 The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
10 The Stump
-
HS 4b 3
11 Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 4
12 Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
13 Downward Bound E2 5c 2
14 Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b * 18
15 Pat's Route
-
VS 4c * 22
16 Duck Soup
-
VS 4c * 8
17 One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b * 18
18 The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c * 22
19 Second Choice
-
S 4a 4
20 Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 4
21 Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 15
22 Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 16
23 Peace through Nudism VS 4b 5
24 Gravy Booby E1 5b 3
25 Wink
-
VS 4c 1
26 Santana
-
VS 4b 10
27 Screeboar the Omniscient E2 5b/c 4
28 Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 6
29 Peas n' Carrots E2 5c * 4
30 Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 16
31 Easy Go
-
S 3c 6
32 Left Crack
-
VD 22
33 Quare Craic HS 4c 10
34 Central Crack
-
VD 12
35 Right Crack
-
S 7
36 Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 2
37 Clean Break
-
VS 4c 5
38 Plan 9 from Outer Space HVS 5b * 9
39 Thunderchild
-
E3 6b * 1
40 Nobody Move E4 6a ** 1
41 Nobody Get Hurt E4 6b ** 1
42 Run the World
-
E4 5c  
43 Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a * 3
44 A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 2
45 Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 3
46 Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 2
47 Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 3
48 Phoenix
-
VS 4c * 10
49 Living Doll
-
E2 5c * 2
50 Morrigan
-
E2 5b * 1
51 Snatch of the Day VS 5a * 9
52 Focus
-
VS 4c * 11
53 Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b * 3
54 The Wall of Jer'n Co. E5 6a 1
55 Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a * 8
56 Fenenstron
-
HS 3
57 Astazou
-
VD 7
58 A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 4
59 Scornflake
-
HVS 5a * 12
60 Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a * 4
61 J L Seagull
-
HS 4b * 15
62 Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
63 Foxbat VS 4c 6
64 Fissure Fuar VS 4b * 22
65 Christine
-
HS 4a 2
66 Paradigm
-
VS 5a 3
67 Rubberwrist HS 4b 17
68 Juniper Dodge E1 5b 3
69 Spinola
-
S 4a * 54
70 Pitchfork
-
S 4a 20
71 Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c * 23
72 Bullrush
-
VS 4c * 36
73 The Sting
-
HVS 5b * 16
74 Morning
-
S 4a 6
75 Greased Frightening
-
VD 4
76 Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 6
77 Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a 1
78 Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
79 Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
80 Flay
-
VS 4c 14
81 Hejira
-
E3 5c * 5
82 Fuschia VS 4b * 19
83 Sycamore VS 4c * 1
84 Hazelnut Arete HVS 5b 1
85 Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b * 16
86 Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c * 18
87 Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c * 1
88 Corner Variant HVS 5a 1
89 Glipe
-
VS 4c 2
  The Middle Crag
91 Jug Hands
-
E1 5b * 1
92 Solid Bond
-
E1 5b *  
93 A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a **  
94 Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c ** 2
95 Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b ** 3
  Below the Main Crag
97 Trivial Pusuit
-
E1 5c  
98 Saginaw Song
-
S 4c  
99 Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
100 Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
101 The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
  Binnagapple Area
103 Long Runs the Fox
-
E9 6c  
104 December
-
HVS 5a ** 92
105 Duais Arete E7 6b ***  
106 Duais E1 5b 7
107 Poor Relation E1 5b ** 25
108 Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 3
109 Raglan Road
-
E3 6a ** 22
110 Raglan Road Top Pitch Variation
-
E5 6a ***  
111 Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c * 1
112 Curser
-
E2 5b  
113 Doldrum E2 5c ** 9
114 Clarion
-
VS 4c 1
115 Hurricane
-
E2 5b *** 122
116 Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c *** 25
117 The Vital Spark E2 5c 8
118 Green Corner
-
HS  
119 An Empty Book E8 6b ***  
120 Visual Contact
-
E3 6b ** 9
121 Dart Vadar Lives
-
HVS  
122 Rusty Halo E4 6a *** 19
123 Serem
-
HVS  
124 Cake Walk E3 5c 4
125 Toby Jug
-
E1 5b ** 114
126 The Brasser
-
E2 5c *** 73
127 Sandpiper
-
E2 5c *** 90
128 Striapach HVS 5a * 9
129 Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a *** 100
130 Blade Runner
-
E3 5c ** 30
131 Track of the Cat E4 6a *** 54
132 The Dark Side
-
E8 6c *** 3
133 Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
134 Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 4
135 Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
136 Earnshaw's Route
-
VS  
137 Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
138 Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a *** 1
  Grey Man's Path East
140 Night Rider E5 6a *** 1
141 Njold's Saga E3 5c 1
142 Thor E3 5c ** 3
143 Cu Uladh HVS 5a 1
144 Soylent Green E1 5b 2
145 Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b 1
146 Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c *  
147 Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
148 The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b 4
149 The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
150 Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
151 Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b **  
152 The Grey Man
-
E4 5c ***  
153 The Rocafella
-
E7 6c *** 1
154 Pacemaker
-
E3 5c 1
155 Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 7
156 Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
157 Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
158 Liv E3 6a *** 2
159 Baldur E3 5c 1
160 Odin E3 5c 3
161 Lost Highway E5 6a 2
  Grey Man's Path West
163 World of Suits
-
VS 4c 4
164 Coaster
-
HS  
165 Mainstream
-
E4 6a *  
166 Child's Play
-
E3 5c *  
167 Paralyzed Power
-
E6 6b ** 2
168 Low Profile
-
E3 5c * 3
169 Power Play
-
E4 6a *  
170 Zulu HVS 5a 1
171 Burn Up
-
E1 5a *** 184
172 Abyssinia E3 5c *** 8
173 The Famished Road HVS 5a 5
174 Creeper E1 5b * 2
175 Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c ** 1
176 Kraken E2 5b  
177 Cat's Malacky E2 5c  
178 Saladin E5 6b  
179 Thran E2 5c  
  The White Lightning Amphitheatre
181 Infidel E5 6b *** 2
182 Black Magic
-
E4 6a ** 1
183 Born to Run E4 6a *** 51
184 Hallowe'en E4 6a *** 41
185 Hallowe'en Arete E4 6b *** 15
186 Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
187 Crusader E4 6a ** 6
188 The Icarus Gun E3 6a ** 6
189 Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a *  
190 The Slope
-
E3 5c  
191 The Badlands
-
E4 6a **  
192 Day Tripper
-
E3 6a ** 1
193 Streets of Fire
-
E3 6a *** 8
194 White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
195 Zeus
-
E3 5c  
196 The Weasel
-
E2 5c 1
197 Seabhac
-
E5 6a **  
198 Broc
-
E3 5c *  
199 Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
200 November
-
HVS 5a 2
201 New City Allstars
-
E2 5b 3
202 Martin's Route
-
E2 5b 2
203 Scarecrow
-
HVS 5a ** 9
  Bird Hide Block Area
205 Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
206 Samhna
-
HS  
207 King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
208 Rumours
-
E5 6a ***  
209 Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b * 1
210 Raven E2 5b 3
211 Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
212 Back to the Future 8 E4 6a ** 6
213 Scorpion E3 5c *** 11
214 Something Horrible E3 6a 1
215 Walk on the Wild Side E1 5b * 2
  An Bealach Runda Area
217 Where the Wild Things Are
-
E5 6b *** 2
218 Un Jour, Peut-Etre E6 6b *** 2
219 An Goban Saor E1 5b * 8
220 The X- Men E3 6a ** 22
221 The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
222 An Bealach Rúnda E1 5b *** 153
223 An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c ***  
224 Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
225 Northern Exposure E5 6b *** 14
226 Waiting for the Sun E4 6a *  
227 Flashdance E2 5b  
228 Peacadh Marfach E2 5b  
229 Absolute Zero E5 6b **  
230 Give Up E4 6b **  
231 Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c * 1
232 AD 43
-
E5 6b **  
233 Dark Forces E3 6a *** 28
234 Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b *  
235 Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a **  
236 Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c *  
  The Terraces
238 Iseult E4 6a 2
239 The Artful Dodger E2 5b ** 3
240 Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
241 Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
242 Blockbuster E2 5c *** 44
243 Herbivore XS 5a 1
244 The Vandals
-
E2 5c ** 6
245 Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b * 4
246 Silent Running
-
E4 5c ** 1
247 Aifric E2 5c *  
248 Easy Rider E2 5b * 3
249 Fired Earth
-
E5 6b **  
250 Birth Rite
-
E5 6a *  
251 Bates's Motel E3 5c ** 4
252 Solid Mandala E3 6a ** 2
253 ESP XS  
  Rathlin Wall Area
255 Clontarf E3 5c  
256 Roaring Meg VS 5a ** 106
257 Faerie Stories
-
E6 6b *** 1
258 Cúchulainn E2 5c *** 68
259 Death or Glory
-
E4 6a *** 1
260 London Calling
-
E5 6b **  
261 Viking HVS 5a  
262 Little Martha
-
S 4b 3
263 Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 3
264 Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a *** 13
265 Spirited Away E7 6b ***  
266 Cinnabar
-
E2 5c * 6
267 Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a *** 11
268 Puritan
-
E2 5c  
269 Tír na nÓg E6 6a ** 3
270 Reilig
-
E3 5c ** 3
271 XL
-
E4 6a *  
272 XL Variation Start
-
E4 6a  
273 Waist Deep in Alligators
-
E4 6a *** 5
274 Lochlannach
-
E3 6a  
275 Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b **  
276 Talking Heads
-
E4 6a ** 17
277 Muck Savage
-
HVS 5a 1
278 Licence to Kill
-
E4 5c **  
279 Cool Hand Luke E2 5c * 5
280 The Hustler
-
E3 6a *** 42
281 Conchubair
-
E2 5c *** 76
282 The Mask E5 6a *** 47
283 Face Value E4 6a *** 95
284 Flying Lizards
-
E3 6a * 2
285 Smashing Pumpkins
-
E6 6a *  
286 Full of Energy, Ready 2 Party E5 6a *** 1
287 The Stoat
-
E2 5c ** 10
288 Judgement Day E7 6b *** 1
289 Heaven Can Wait
-
E4 6a **  
290 The Promised Land
-
E4 6a *** 39
291 The Complete Scream E8 6b *** 1
292 Primal Scream E6 6b *** 32
293 Blind Pew
-
E2 5b ** 107
294 End Game
-
E5 6a *** 2
295 Mizen Star E2 5b *** 106
296 Titanic
-
E2 5c *** 57
297 Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b ** 1
298 Salango
-
E3 5c *** 70
299 The Fame Game E4 6a ** 3
300 Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)
-
E3 5c ** 1
301 Equinox E2 5b *** 161
302 A Bad Skin Day E7 6c *** 3
303 The Big Skin E8 6c ***  
  Ballycastle Descent Gully East
305 The Rathlin Effect E8 6c ***  
306 Below and Behold E7 6c ***  
307 Above and Beyond E6 6b *** 14
308 Once You Go Black You Never Go Back E7 6c ***  
309 Where the Grass is Green E7 6c ***  
310 The Wall of Prey E5 6b *** 87
311 The Wall of Prey (Direct Start) E5 6b ***  
312 Taming the Tiger E6 6b ***  
313 Phil E5 6b **  
314 Way of the Jive Monkeys E7 6b *** 3
315 Styx
-
E7 6c *** 2
316 Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b *** 1
317 Hell's Kitchen
-
HVS 5a *** 264
318 Hell's Kitchen Arete
-
E6 6a *** 21
319 A Rite of Passage
-
E4 6b  
320 Two Sides to the Story
-
E4 5c  
321 Manannán E1 5b  
322 Ocean Boulevard
-
E3 5c *** 66
323 Aoife
-
E2 5b ** 120
324 Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
325 Girona
-
VS 5a *** 287
326 Musarat
-
E4 6a * 2
327 Chieftain
-
VS 4b ** 194
328 Taoiseach
-
VS 4c * 101
329 Cyclone
-
E3 5c * 1
330 Racing Line
-
E6 6b **  
331 Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a * 39
332 Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
333 April
-
E1 5b * 34
334 April Variation Finish
-
E1 5b ** 53
335 The Brat
-
VS 4b 28
336 Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 6
337 Cruthin
-
S 7
  Ballycastle Descent Gully West
339 Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 6
340 Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c * 1
341 Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b * 6
342 Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
343 Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 2
344 Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b * 3
345 Argosy E1 5a * 4
346 Odyssey VS 4c ** 68
347 Odyssey Variation
-
E1 5b 2
348 Dearg Doom VS 4c * 8
349 Atlantic City
-
E1 5b *  
350 The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
351 Sodbuster
-
VS 4c * 3
352 Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
353 End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
354 Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
355 The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
  The Prow
357 Five Gears in Reverse E1 5b 1
358 Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
359 Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b ** 11
360 Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
361 Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
362 Mojave
-
E3 5c  
363 Thunder Road
-
E3 5c *** 10
364 Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c ** 12
365 The Doffer
-
E1 5b * 7
366 Black Taxi
-
E1 5b * 11
367 Darkness
-
E2 5c ** 34
368 Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b ** 65
369 Thunderhips
-
E1 5b ** 51
370 Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a  
371 Fireball
-
E1 5b *** 185
372 Midnight Cruiser
-
E1 5b *** 281
373 Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a *  
374 Marconi
-
E3 5c *** 103
375 The Embankment
-
E2 5c *** 124
376 Railroad
-
E1 5b *** 229
377 Balooba
-
VS 4c 17
378 Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c * 31
379 Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 46
380 Revival
-
HVS 5a 19
381 Curlew
-
VS 4c 47
382 Contortions
-
VS 4c 37
383 Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 2
384 Contractions
-
VS 5a 35
385 Foxy
-
HS 9
386 Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 73
387 Energize
-
E1 5b **  
388 Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b *** 193
389 GBH
-
E3 6a *** 114
390 The Black Thief
-
VS 4b *** 338
391 The Fence
-
VS 4c *** 277
392 The Offence
-
HVS 5a 60
393 Residue
-
HS 4a 1
394 Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 6
395 Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
396 La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 11
397 Bramble
-
S 41
398 Driodar na hAille
-
HS 17
399 Simple Minds
-
E1 5b * 39
400 Salamander
-
VS 4c 11
  Farrangandoo
402 Gunther Grass
-
S 7
403 Casablanca VS 4c 26
404 Cadiz
-
E1 5c 3
405 Cairo
-
HVS 5a 3
406 Fargo
-
E3 5c  
407 Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
408 The Kerb
-
E3 5c **  
409 Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c ** 2
410 Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b *** 55
411 Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a *** 15
412 Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a *** 98
413 Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 2
414 Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 2
415 Alleycat HVS 5b 2
416 Samson VS 4c * 6
417 Lazarus VS 4c * 26
418 Hard Rain E1 5b 7
419 Jezebel HVS 5b * 14
420 Velocette VS 4b * 6
421 Providence HVS 5a 3
422 The Squirt VS 4b 3
423 Essence
-
E3 5c  
424 Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
425 Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
426 Kor
-
E3 5c  
427 Joy Division
-
E2 5c  
428 Big Sky
-
E2 5c * 1
429 The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b 1
430 Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
431 Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 1
432 Flashover
-
E3 5c  
433 Kashubia
-
HVS 5a *  
434 Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
435 Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
436 Shere Khan
-
E2 5c **  
437 Lionheart
-
E4 6a *  
438 Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles