Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces all

Salem © Tom Phillips

Crag features

Salem is a friendly crag with plenty of easily accessible and well-bolted climbing, and there is always sun and shade to choose from. The rock is generally good with water-washed limestone, covered in small solution pockets, on the right-hand side, and more featured walls on the left-hand side. The gear and lower-offs are all solid and well-positioned though it has to be admitted that the over-bolting actually detracts from the climbing in a couple of sectors.

Many visitors here make the mistake of just climbing on the two sectors near the parking - Frigorific and Estival. Both these offer the odd good route, especially in the easier grades, however they are not the best climbing here and you will get much more from the crag if you venture up onto the higher side walls and explore the place a bit. 

Bolts have a habit of disappearing from the easier routes on Sectors Frigorific and Estival. Some people may find a small rack of wires useful just in case.

The crags are laid out in a 'V' shape running into a deeply incised valley that is sheltered from the wind. Extremes of temperature may be encountered as the crags on the right-hand side of the valley face northwest and only get late afternoon sun, whilst the crags opposite face south and bask in the sun until late afternoon.

Approach notes

From the Calp/Benidorm area the best approach is via Gandía. Follow the approach to Gandía until the first turn off on the ring road signed to 'Albahida' (alternatively use the tricky but quicker method via Oliva and La Font indicated on the map on page 379). After 20km turn off towards 'Castellon de Rugat' and drive round Castellon de Rugat, then turn right following the 'Salem' signs. After 2.3km, just before you enter Salem, turn left (signed 'Muro de Alcoi'). Follow a winding road until you see a large green factory (Font Salem water-bottling plant) on the right. The road swings around over a small bridge and you will see Sector Frigorífico just above the road. Park on the dirt track in front of a small substation. You can also drive through Castellón de Rugat and turn right onto the CV-705 but this is harder to follow, however it is useful for your return journey.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Topo in 2013 rockfax doesnt fit with reality on sector frigorifico. Numbers at the right hand end are one out.
Mick r - 01/Mar/17
Went here last sunday. There were a few goats in sector Sol i bon temps. Nothing out of the ordinary. But among them there was also a big (100+ kg) male goat. He had big horns and was showing some territorial behaviour, like rubbing against the ews and bushes, peeing everywhere, etc. We felt somewhat intimidated and left the crag. We were wondering why there was nobody there on a sunday with good weather. Maybe this was the reason? Anybody else had this experience at Salem?
Ernie - 11/Jan/17
I'd like to claim some routes from this crag for my ticklist, but I'm not really sure what I climbed! Massively overbolted in places.
mwh - 06/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Estival
2 Pal o'mine 4a 25
3 Pal 4a 22
4 Pal Sentete 5a 26
5 Pal Toni 6a 14
6 Acces denegat 6a 20
7 Farael tan guarro 6a+ 9
8 R2 dedos 3c 47
9 C3 pedos 5a 77
10 Boulder Rock 6c 23
11 Xeroki 4a * 110
12 U2 4c * 131
13 Mosca taca 4a 85
14 Passeig dominical 3c * 79
15 La brixa de Salem 4c * 115
16 La brixa de Salem right-hand
-
4c 30
17 Negra neusl els set gigantes 4a 83
18 Naxcuda en lliure 3a 50
  Sector Frigorifico
20 El kiki 6c 2
21 El gro 6b 5
22 Alaxuplala 6a 19
23 Suc d'avespa 5a 20
24 Xupla polen 5a * 36
25 Mikel i altres broxes 5c * 39
26 Mikel caga flores 5a * 41
27 Guarolo que la casola 5a * 44
28 Camalot 5a * 36
29 El graduado 5c * 27
30 No hay billetes 6a+ * 20
31 Bájame una estrella 7a+ ** 19
32 Fort battle 7b+ **  
33 La pelusa par rusa 6b+ ** 10
34 Ahora corre La sangre 7b+  
35 Cuidado, cuidado 6b ** 33
36 No es lolo todo lo que 8a 2
37 S'asbara 6c+  
38 Eau dansissam 6c * 1
39 Tiempos al tiempos 7a+ *  
40 Quo vadis troni 8b  
41 I de mejor 7b *  
42 Caña dulce 7b  
43 Somnis de tardó 6a ** 33
44 Mía ribe a temps 6a+ * 14
45 Sfinter-man el hombre karaña 5a 17
  Sector Sol i Bon Temps
47 El lobo veloz 6a+  
48 Samurai 6b 2
49 A tot ostia 6a+ * 11
50 Oferta explosiva 6b 2
51 Super nova 6b ** 25
52 Chinahauk 7a * 5
53 Paraboles lejanos 7a+ ** 8
54 Siniestro total 6c ** 1
55 Tirante de roca 6c ** 20
56 Seguix l'animal 6c ** 25
57 Azul marcia ilusión 7a * 1
58 Anónimo 6c * 2
59 Reposa celestial 6c * 1
60 La bola del nas 7b *  
61 Reunión tumultuoso 6b * 14
62 Las mollas de riglo 6a * 24
63 Vino Fino 7a+ *  
64 Plan de choque 6b+ * 1
65 Paquete e medidas 6c+ *  
66 Que se mueran los feos 6c *  
67 Tarugo 6b+ * 2
68 Mabel's 6a * 9
69 El cedro torre 5c * 11
70 El costilla roca 5a * 27
71 Tovarich 6c+  
72 Tulukremlin 6c 4
73 Con ibérica ya habrás volado 5c 14
74 Pelut I pelat 6b 1
75 Sindrome de soledad 7a+ ** 10
76 Un montón de ostias 7a+  
77 Sarvachof 6c 4
78 Culo flojo 6a+ 2
79 Salem Bon Temps 33 6a+ 5
80 Salem Bon Temps 34 5c 5
81 Esplonet 4a * 22
  Sector Chica Facil
83 Astisores perilloses 6a * 9
84 Dolche vitta 5c * 8
85 Atmosfera 7b *  
86 Bultaco entre las piernas 6a 3
87 Honeymoon 6b+ * 1
88 Pasodobles 6b+ ** 1
89 La fuerza del viento 6a+ * 9
90 Despedida de soltero 6b ** 7
91 Chica fácil 6a ** 13
92 Es tinto basic 6c * 1
93 Chapa charcos 6a+ *  
94 Malas posturas 6a *  
95 Caza de brujas 6b+ * 2
96 La prolongacion 6a *  
97 El gordo de mi mesota 6c+ * 2
98 Solo para aboyados 6c * 2
99 Mal de Cuerpo 6a+ ** 3
100 Estreno duro 6b * 3
101 No me toques rompo 6a * 13
102 No le toques la oreja 6b * 1
103 El demoño dojo 6b+  
104 El principo del fin 6a * 9
  Sector Iniciacio
106 Langoliers 4a 5
107 Gorro Andino 4a 5
108 Solo con receta medica 4a 15
109 Semen retentum 5a 12
110 Condenado a muerte 4a 12
111 Tapa el forat 4a 8
  Sector Complicacions
113 Egipt Air 4c * 31
114 Istambul 4c * 27
115 Peret i marieta 4c 8
116 Sports Aitana 4c * 10
117 Borrul, Borrul 5a * 18
118 Si te Molla 5a 5
119 Jesuita bim bam 6a+ *  
120 Estoy frito tres delicias 6b+ **  
121 Tbo negro 7b *  
122 No molla portar 6b+ *  
123 Chimpangali 6b+ *  
124 Viuda negra 6a * 4
125 Expolon 6a * 1
126 Semilla negra 7a+ *  
127 Thu 7a *  
128 Calvorotas 6a ** 3
129 Monomakina 6c **  
130 Chupe pachá 7a+ **  
131 Baja chocho 7b ***  
132 Droga dura 7c *  
133 Amiches 6a+ * 3
134 Lluvia ácida 7a * 1
135 Marka pasos 7b *  
136 Tu et punxes tio 6c+ ** 1
137 Pelas pa las pilas 7c+ *  
138 Tómate un respiro 7b+ ***  
139 Pedromina piruleta 7b **  
140 El silencio 7c *  
141 Con agua me cloroformo 6b * 3
142 Celtas cortos 6c *  
143 Tirate al ruedo 6b+ * 3
144 Les granotes minja 6b+  
145 Sed de libertad 6a 1
146 Altamira 7b  
147 Mierda en los dedos 7a  
148 Diedrosuro 5c  
149 Nicho para un bicho 7a  

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