Altitude 165m a.s.l
Unknown climber on Mayeutica, 7c © icnoble
Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good slabby face climbing and the odd steeper route, especially towards the left-hand end. The crag is situated in a secluded, sunny position and the river below provides swimming when it's hot. The lines are all pretty parallel, hence you can get the “done one, done 'em all” feeling with some of the routes however if you sample the different sectors there is plenty to keep you interested for a few visits. On certain sections the routes tend to get a bit mixed up with each other since there aren't many features and there are lots of bolts. It isn't uncommon to find yourself straying onto another route while climbing upwards in a straight line. It is also worth noting that the rock is very sharp and can take its toll on your finger tips especially if you try and cram a lot of routes into the day. On the plus side, many of the climbs feature fine long pitches, plenty of good climbing and the rock is mostly perfect quality.
The crag faces south west, and receives the sun from mid-morning. In summer it will be too hot for most but it is fine for the rest of the year. It is exposed to wind and there is not much shelter though a few of the bigger bushes/smaller trees offer shade from the sun. The place is often infested with small (non-biting) flies in the spring - this may be associated with the nearby river.
From the Calp/Benidorm area the best approach is via Gandía. Follow the approach to Gandía until the first turn off on the ring road signed to 'Albahida'. Follow the CV60 signed to Albaida and after 12km, turn off towards Xàtiva on the CV610. After 18km always following Xàtiva signs is the town of Genovés. Continue towards Xàtiva, on the dual carriageway, and at the second roundabout on leaving the town, double back and then take the first right turn signed to 'Alboi'. Follow this road for 1.9km and turn left immediately after crossing the railway line, and after passing the fancy 'Alboi' sign. 400m further on is a T-junction; turn left and follow the road for a further 1.4km and park at a flat terrace on the right, just before the track winds uphill. From here walk up the track and break out rightwards to the crag which is now obvious on the hillside ahead.
|Superb climbing, generally steep and requiring good footwork. No grades that i tried were a gimme, all at the top of the grade, however don't let this put you off because after 9 trips to Costa Blanca since 2006 this has turned out to be the best crag i've visited. Superb and an hour twenty from Calpe.|
Zoomer - 29/Dec/12
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