Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 327m a.s.l
Faces S

Neil Carruthers approaching the crimpy upper wall on Dagon (F6c), Montesa © chris sm

Crag features

Montesa is a great little crag of pocketed rock. The routes are generally short, however the climbing is of a high calibre, the rock is rough, the setting is sunny and many of the routes are quite intense. There is a good variety of styles on offer here and some good picnic spots. The crag can get very busy, especially at weekends. The main buttresses are included here. 

Most of the crag faces south and, although the setting is quite exposed, it doesn't appear to catch much wind. There is no shelter in the rain here though the place dies dry quickly.

Approach notes

Montesa is just northwest of the N430 near Xàtiva. From the coast, head north to Gandía and get on the fast CV-60 towards Albaida (see map on page 379 for alternatives for this). Join the CV-40 heading north. This point can also be reached via Alcoi if you are coming from further south. After about 12km turn towards Albaceta on the N430 dual carriageway. Continue south to junction 37 to Montesa. Drive into the town and pick up signs for 'Castell de Montesa'. There are actually two signs which take you different ways around the town - they are both about the same distance. Park at a flat area below the castle. Walk down the hill to a path on the bend which leads to the crag. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Half a dozen newly bolted routes have appeared to the left of PEDRA CRISTALINA sector, there are no indications of names or grades, so names have been made up and can be corrected if any original names are known.
fatbuoybazza - 06/Apr/14
What a great little Crag! Well bolted routes and some incredible rock akin to Craig y Tonnau in wales....weird and wonderful
SGD - 26/Nov/12
Great little crag for ticking loads of routes in a day. About 1hr 45 mins from Calpe. Grades on the whole felt soft.
Zoomer - 29/Dec/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Romolandia
2 Roma
-
4a  
3 El silencio de los romos
-
6c  
4 El bueno, el romo y el feo
-
6c  
5 Los romos gemelos y Bin romo
-
6c  
6 Rom
-
6c  
7 Rómolo y Remo
-
6c+  
8 Romeo y chungueta
-
7a+  
9 Romotrón
-
6b  
10 CD-Romo
-
6b+  
11 Romo-cop
-
6b+  
12 Romolandia
-
6c  
13 7 Romos Y Un Funeral
-
7b  
14 Lliure de Fillol
-
3  
15 Duhast
-
5a  
  Sector El Raco del Boticari
17 Trapatroles
-
6c+  
18 Reflex
-
6b  
19 Cagalló pre-históric
-
6a+  
20 Pasión por los dedos
-
6a  
21 El sostre del cigró
-
6c  
22 Albert abad i cia
-
5c  
23 Maldito escafoides
-
6a  
24 Diedre del sensei Ri
-
6a 1
25 Tricloroetano
-
5c 2
26 Profesor Bacterio
-
5c 1
27 Calmatel
-
6b+  
28 Trankimazin
-
6c+  
29 Rompecantos
-
6b+  
30 Mala reputación
-
6a+ ** 1
31 Los Ricardos
-
7b+  
32 Pastillas Juanolas
-
6c+  
33 Las pastillas del doctor Albi
-
6c 1
  La Placa
35 Whisky a gogó
-
7a+  
36 Sube los pies!!
-
6c  
37 Mola la Mola
-
6a  
  Tormo Gros
  Tormo Gros - North Face
40 Ale guleee 5a 34
41 Wanted chorizo de chapas 5a * 62
42 Sola 5a * 60
43 Ultimatum 5a * 58
44 Viadelina 5c 35
45 Maximo Orgasmo 6b * 38
46 Selenta 5a * 61
47 Selenta dos 6a+ * 22
48 Forta dos 5c * 73
49 La Forta 5c 40
50 Menira 5c * 73
51 Rosa 4a 98
52 L'amic Joan Grau 4a * 94
53 Pijus Magnificus 6b 17
54 Picha linda 6b+ 8
55 Normal 3 4
56 V.S.V. 6a+ 6
57 C.B.S. 4a * 25
58 Free climbing 4c * 28
59 Sherpa Pertemba 5c 30
60 One Ticket for Kentucky 7c  
  Tormo Gros South Face
62 West 6c * 6
63 Ajetreos 6c+ * 2
64 Pin y Pon 7a * 3
65 7 anas1 6b+ * 1
66 Que fas? El porc 6a ** 25
67 Poquet i bo 6a+ * 11
68 La cartera 6b+ * 12
69 Sin nombre 1 6c * 1
70 Sin nombre 2 6c * 1
71 Llepons 6c+ *  
72 Marti de Viciana 6c+ *  
73 Mitja via 6c+ * 2
74 Montesejos 6b ** 9
75 Taxi bou 7b *  
76 Xativeos-94 6c * 5
  Paret de la Mola
78 Milio 6b+ *  
79 Dagón 6b+ *** 33
80 Ningún Drama 6c *** 20
81 Sense titól 6c ** 13
82 No Name Uno 6b+ ** 7
83 Valeria 6c ** 1
84 No Name Dos 6b+ ** 3
85 La fura Deus 6b * 26
86 Tuli-lola 6a * 55
87 Fornicadores 4a 4
88 La bola del drac 4a * 9
89 L'oratge 6b * 12
90 Diedro ecologic 5c * 10
91 Per aci Mixel no passa 6b 8
92 Diedre güay 5a ** 71
93 Elo Deu del vent 5c ** 117
94 Epiliano dels collons 5c *** 179
95 Pic-pic 5c *** 147
96 La colmena 6a+ * 72
97 La Panxa 6b ** 56
98 Pepemite 6a+ * 64
99 La lluita dels caps 6b+ * 10
100 Xila 6a+ * 45
101 La Virgo 5c *** 100
102 Insubmissio 6a * 39
103 Qué morro! 6a+ * 39
104 Te la mango 6c * 11
105 Speed 6c+  
106 L'espectacul 6c *** 17
107 Quan la lluna flora 6c * 9
108 Diedre de t'home dur 6b * 14
109 Galteta roja 6a+ * 13
110 El nas de Roseta 6a+ * 5
  Pedra Cristalina Left
112 Necesito Jabon 6a 3
113 No Hay Toallas 6a 4
114 Donde se Paga 5a 10
115 Espereme, Por Favor 4a 9
116 La asistenta viene todos los lunes 6a 7
117 No me gustan las cortinas 6a 3
  Pedra Cristalina
119 Unknown 5a 1
120 Estornuts 6b+ * 5
121 Llagrimes en la piedra 7b * 1
122 Lo mas duro 7b+  
123 Baltario 6b ** 16
124 Caxi-baxe 7a+ *  
125 Quedara en tu memoria 7a+ *  
126 Me supura la fisura 6a 3
127 Ferrán JB 6c * 3
128 La llumeneta 6c+ 1
129 Agárramela por el cuello 6b+ * 13
130 Menir 6a+ 4
131 ¡A la mili quillo! 6a+ 7
132 Cristalina 6a+ * 11
133 Colorines 6a+ * 24
134 Diedro besuco 5a * 29
135 La teoría de la palanca 6a * 21
136 Variante la teoría 6a 24
137 El paso del embolo 6a * 35
138 Xorrollera Pinza Hut 6b * 19
139 El forat negre 6a+ * 22
140 Isma 6b+ * 2
141 Pepe Blai 6a+ ** 45
142 Juanot 6c  
143 Patiras tendinitis 6c * 2
144 Patiras d'estrenyiment 6c *  
145 La petjada de tico 6a+ * 15
146 For ever? 7c  
147 Siniestra danza 7c  
148 Snake-men 6c 2
149 Erosión 6a * 20
150 Centenario de vias 6a+ 4
151 Ivana 6b  
152 Lour 6a+  
153 Extra Climb 1 5c 1
154 Extra Climb 2 5c 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fatbuoybazza