UKC

Climbs 256
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 189m a.s.l
Faces S

Climbing at Bellus © Chris Craggs

Crag features

Just to the north of the village of Bellús is an unspectacular looking hillside with scattered pig farms. Not a promising location for a crag you might think, however tucked away here are three superb walls offering some excellent routes across the grades. The routes here are closely packed on great rock but offer much more variety than you might expect. Some of the climbing, particularly in the Baranco Fondo, is fierce and technical which can take its toll on your fingertips. Cueva Pechina and on Sector L'Altet tend to be steeper but slightly less intense. Additionally the various walls face in different directions with Baranco Fondo being an amazing sun-trap, and Cueva Pechina and Sector L'Altet offering shady climbing making Bellús a great year-round venue. 

Baranco Fondo is a well-sheltered sun-trap; it gets hot here even in the middle of winter. There are no big overhangs in the main gorge so there is little to do in the rain but there is little or no seepage and the crag will dry in minutes after any rain. Cueva Pechina offers shady climbing all day long and will give some dry climbing in light rain, albeit in the harder grades only. Sector L'Altet is mostly shady climbing although there is one wall that gets some morning sunshine.

Approach notes

From the Calp/Benidorm area, the best approach is to leave the AP-7 as for Gandía but immediately after the tolls, turn right down a minor road. Follow this to a junction and take the 2nd right onto the CV-638. This takes you around the right of La Font d'En Carros and then to the Benifla roundabout where you turn left on the CV-60. Follow this for about 30km to exit at junction 7 signed to 'Montarvener' and 'Alfarrasí'. Double back on the complex junction and then head back across the CV-60 towards Alfarrasí on the N340. As you go past Bellús, immediately turn right down a dirt road (just before the main road crosses a bridge).

Baranco Fondo - At the first cross-road turn left towards a 'landscaped' quarry which doubles as the crag car park. Walk through the quarry, keeping left to its end where some cairns mark the start of a path that picks a way along the right side of a rocky terrace all the way up to the right-hand side of the cliff. The first routes are only 10 mins from the car.

Cueva Pechina and Sector L'Altet - Continue straight on at the cross-roads, up a hill and between the farm buildings. Drive over a small hill before descending to riverside parking. Cueva Pechina is a little further on from the parking. For Sector L'Altet, walk under Cueva Pechina and continue for about 10 minutes until the crag can be seen up and left on the hillside.

Restricted Access

Climbing has been banned on the routes in and around the caves of Cueva Pechina. A sign has been errected on the approach to the crag (saying something about Unesco world heritage status) and bolts have been removed from the cave.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Balcón
2 Ganimedes 5a 15
3 Europa 5a * 21
4 Titán 5c * 20
5 Júpiter 6a+ * 15
6 Orión 6c * 6
7 Reina de saba 6b+ * 6
8 Rínoceronte 6c *  
9 Akenaton 7a+ *  
10 Salomón 7a * 3
11 Dulce castigo 7a ** 7
12 Campurriano 7b+ *  
13 Capitán América 7b *  
14 Acécarme el agujero 7b+ ** 1
15 Tutankamon 6b+ *  
16 Cleopatra 6b *  
17 Celtas Cortos 6b ***  
18 Columbia 6a+ *** 3
19 Airbag 5a * 12
20 JB 5c * 12
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Bloque
22 Yertu primituvu 6a+  
23 Guapito bananas 6a+  
24 Tócate los huesos 6b  
25 Peña el porru 6b *  
26 Carne Val 6a+ * 14
27 Transilvania 6c * 8
28 Dràcula 6c+ * 3
29 Tarambanas 6b * 10
30 As de ases 7a * 8
31 Masacre 6a+ 2
32 Halloween 6a * 7
33 Xíus 6a+ * 3
34 Comanche 6b * 1
35 Pierdo verticalidad 6a+ * 1
36 Colores de guerra 6a ** 9
37 Asmático 6b+ * 1
38 Pedro Picapiedra 6b+ *  
39 Pablo Mármol 6a * 6
40 Hells Bells 6a 18
41 Consejo de guerra 6a+ * 7
42 Consejo de paz 6b ** 10
43 Yeti 6a+ ** 4
44 A escobazos con Guerola 6a+ ** 4
45 El atrofiat 6a *  
46 El attolladero 6b+ *  
47 Amordasat 6a * 3
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Verano
49 Invertidos de la ostia 6c+ * 4
50 Les grapes 6b+ *  
51 Los mediocres 6b ** 13
52 Micro 6c ** 4
53 Pistacho 6b ** 11
54 El pastiset 6a * 16
55 Momo 6b+ * 2
56 Parasit 6a * 10
57 Bossím 6a * 8
58 Mister coki 6b ** 21
59 Amors 5c ** 25
60 Pobre Olivera 6b  
61 Karkamal 6a+ 1
62 El amagatall 6a+ * 5
63 Capello 6c+ * 1
64 No me siento las piedras 6a+ * 7
65 Yohan 7a * 1
66 Champion's League 7a 1
67 Harley Davidson 6c+ *  
68 Brea 7a+ *  
69 La pancheta gueroleta 6b * 1
70 Moco de pavo 7a *  
71 Duracel 7a ** 6
72 Atlanta 6b ** 14
73 Popeye 6c+ *** 20
74 Unknown * 7a+ * 1
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Escharcha Negra
76 Sasoma 6b+ * 1
77 Cacolat del Marroc 7a+ ** 7
78 Alto Brons 7a+ * 4
79 Código rojo 6c * 7
80 Sed de dromedario 6b * 21
81 Sega 6b 3
82 Mega 6a+ * 2
83 Esquirol 6b ** 12
84 Psicosis 6b ** 11
85 Alparrus 6a+ ** 10
86 Sopletiste 6c+ *  
87 Trance 6c **  
88 Moreno 6b ** 12
Climb name Grade
89 Rompe gafas 6c+ ** 1
90 Rompe cojones 7a ** 1
91 Maldita sea mi suerte 6b ** 11
92 Tiempo perdido 6c * 3
93 Cuerdas gastadas 6a+ ** 23
94 A todo tren 6b * 1
95 La chicharra 6b  
96 La porreta 6a+ * 8
97 La chufeta 6c *  
98 Sobaos 6b *  
99 Bujakes 6b * 3
100 Rayos uva 6c ** 1
101 Aquí macabatde fotre 7a+ *  
102 Carnestoltes 7a+ *  
103 Los suaves 6c * 2
104 Kakaolate 6b * 2
105 Terrorista en la autopista 7b * 2
106 Peligrosa María 6c * 5
107 Alcatraz 6b+ * 15
108 Siempre igual 6b * 22
109 Anfiteatro 6a+ * 26
110 Sudores 6a+ * 28
111 Calores 6a * 38
112 Temores 5a 34
113 Flautus cercanas 4c 10
114 Tambores lejanos 4c 12
  Cueva Pechina
116 El rio 4a 12
117 El molino 4c * 25
118 Pera pares 4c * 18
119 Pera nones 5c * 26
120 El perro 5c * 25
121 Casporillo 5a ** 52
122 Red Gash 4c ** 40
123 Es carlota 5a *** 72
124 Pure de pascueros 7b *** 18
125 Coloquiadio 6c+ *** 29
126 Warlock 7c+ ** 7
127 Anitesia 6c *** 46
128 Maldita Navidad 7c+ *** 1
129 Mutante 8a **  
130 Liante 8b **  
131 Slayer 8a  
132 Anaslayer 7c+  
133 Anaconda 7b+  
134 Gladiator 7a+ ** 1
135 Colores 6c+ ** 7
136 Rompresas 7a+ * 1
137 Extrema y Dura 6c+ * 3
138 El muro de las lamentationes 7b+ 1
139 El trasgu 7a+ 2
140 La pelota de manterol 6b 1
141 Pechina Twenty Six 6c+ * 7
142 Pechina Twenty Seven 6b ** 19
143 El buitre pescador 6a+ ** 52
144 El albaran volador 6a *** 104
145 Odisea especial 6b *** 67
146 Mangurrian 7a ** 37
147 Chocolate de patora 7b ** 7
148 Cede al paso 7b * 1
149 Centenario guay 6b+ ** 19
150 Rock y ron 6c+ *  
151 El clan de los cuerdos 7a *  
152 El clan de los locos 7c  
153 Unknown Climb * 5c * 2
  Sector L'Altet - Sol
155 L'Altet 4c * 6
156 Mentiros 4c * 9
157 Pinb 4c * 13
158 Barbate 5a * 14
159 Atun y chocolate 5c ** 18
160 Ninot diabolic 6a+ * 20
161 Palestina 6b * 8
162 Cangleio 6b * 15
163 San Dasporro de Asis 6c * 2
164 R.S.I. 6b+ * 2
165 L'Altet Eleven 7a  
166 Nañes no me engañes 6c ** 7
167 Champona a la Antigua 6c+ ** 1
168 Munta los pens 6b+ ** 2
169 Rockodromo.com 7a *** 18
170 L'Altet Sixteen 7b ***  
171 L'Altet Seventeen ?  
172 Estado critico ?  
173 Cabezon Lopez ?  
174 L'Altet Twenty ?  
175 Vents demunianya.com ?  
176 El guerrero pacifico 7a * 4
Climb name Grade
177 L'Altet Twenty Two 6b * 2
178 Boomer 6a+ * 9
179 Carros de foc 6b * 10
180 Sau 6b+ * 4
181 Sopa de kabra 6b+ * 3
182 Carrer dels torrats 6c+ * 2
183 El boig de la ciutat 6b+ ** 8
184 Sota una estella 6c * 4
185 Els pets 6c+ * 1
186 La rata penada 6b+ * 2
187 Sahara 6b+ * 2
188 Baiseta 6b+ ** 6
189 Los demonios 6b+ * 5
190 El silencio de los borregos 6b+ ** 6
191 Torapia 7a+ *  
192 Torrente 7a+ * 3
193 Tempestades 6b+ ** 4
194 El corredor 6c+ * 1
195 Vivorita 7a+ ** 6
196 Cobra 7a+ * 2
197 Euskadi 6b+ * 4
198 Irlanda 6b * 8
199 Hony vive mucho 6a+ * 19
200 Cid Cabreador 6a+ * 16
201 L'Altet Far Right 6a+ * 8
202 Sikadur * 7c ** 1
203 Johnny Vive Mucho *
-
6a+ * 1
  Sector L'Altet - Estiu Placa
205 Leonidas 6b * 2
206 Piscodelia 6c+ *  
207 Estiroides 7a+ **  
208 Solo un canto 7a ** 9
209 Bloquea, bloquea 7a+ *  
210 Yo el ramallar 7a+ ** 1
211 Esta chorrera se mea 6c+ **  
212 Skalia 6b+ * 6
213 Pajararillo no vale el diedrillo 6c+ ** 4
214 Golum 6c+ *  
215 Smigol 6c * 2
216 Al Lorito con el 3r Pasito 6c+ **  
217 Hidrofobia 7a ** 5
218 Fumeta man 6c+ ** 2
219 The Art of Climbing ?  
220 In Your Face 7a+ ** 9
221 Bloque man 7a+ * 1
222 Avista depista 6c * 2
223 Cadena perpetua 6b+ * 1
224 Poco canto 6b * 7
225 Fisuritas 6a+ *** 32
226 Montesa vertical 6c * 8
227 Solo diedro 6a * 20
228 El faba de Ramonet 6b+ ** 8
229 Costa fina 6b * 6
230 La taca blanca 6a+ ** 14
231 No té eskakees 6c+ * 2
232 Nyanyes no m'enganyes 7a * 5
233 A lo hecho pecho 6c+ * 2
234 Naturlandia 6b+ *** 20
235 Pere flac 6b *** 33
236 Diumenge sanguinós 6c+ ** 2
237 Inorganització 7a+ ** 2
238 Karkoma 6b+ ** 4
239 ¿Y si vuelas medio metro? 6b+ ** 4
240 La historia de mi vida 7a *  
241 La vida es una historia 6c+ *  
242 Nomenatge al mestre guerola 6c *  
  Sector L'Altet - Estiu Desplom
244 El ramo de flores... ?  
245 Pocas tetas ?  
246 Project ?  
247 Project ?  
248 G.R.I.E.M. 8a ** 1
249 El cade naba 7c *  
250 El trapiecista 7a+ *** 7
251 Hierbas 7b ***  
252 La guarra ?  
253 La rebaja ?  
254 Cocacola, cafes y porros 7b+ *** 1
255 Baila el chiquili cuatro 7b ** 3
256 Pocos mocos 7b+ *** 9
257 Yo el halcon 7a ** 19
258 Bloquea perrea 7a * 2
259 Sino vas ni patras no encadenarras 6c *  
260 Esto es lo que hay ?  
261 El señor de los videos 6c *  
262 Si subo como un rayo no fallo 6b+ * 1
263 Cada maestrillo tien su librillo 6c *  
264 Evolucion *
-
6c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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