Climbs 273
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 189m a.s.l
Faces S

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Climbing at Bellus © Chris Craggs

Crag features

Just to the north of the village of Bellús is an unspectacular looking hillside with scattered pig farms. Not a promising location for a crag you might think, however tucked away here are three superb walls offering some excellent routes across the grades. The routes here are closely packed on great rock but offer much more variety than you might expect. Some of the climbing, particularly in the Baranco Fondo, is fierce and technical which can take its toll on your fingertips. Cueva Pechina and on Sector L'Altet tend to be steeper but slightly less intense. Additionally the various walls face in different directions with Baranco Fondo being an amazing sun-trap, and Cueva Pechina and Sector L'Altet offering shady climbing making Bellús a great year-round venue. 

Baranco Fondo is a well-sheltered sun-trap; it gets hot here even in the middle of winter. There are no big overhangs in the main gorge so there is little to do in the rain but there is little or no seepage and the crag will dry in minutes after any rain. Cueva Pechina offers shady climbing all day long and will give some dry climbing in light rain, albeit in the harder grades only. Sector L'Altet is mostly shady climbing although there is one wall that gets some morning sunshine.

Approach notes

From the Calp/Benidorm area, the best approach is to leave the AP-7 as for Gandía but immediately after the tolls, turn right down a minor road. Follow this to a junction and take the 2nd right onto the CV-638. This takes you around the right of La Font d'En Carros and then to the Benifla roundabout where you turn left on the CV-60. Follow this for about 30km to exit at junction 7 signed to 'Montarvener' and 'Alfarrasí'. Double back on the complex junction and then head back across the CV-60 towards Alfarrasí on the N340. As you go past Bellús, immediately turn right down a dirt road (just before the main road crosses a bridge).

Baranco Fondo - At the first cross-road turn left towards a 'landscaped' quarry which doubles as the crag car park. Walk through the quarry, keeping left to its end where some cairns mark the start of a path that picks a way along the right side of a rocky terrace all the way up to the right-hand side of the cliff. The first routes are only 10 mins from the car.

Cueva Pechina and Sector L'Altet - Continue straight on at the cross-roads, up a hill and between the farm buildings. Drive over a small hill before descending to riverside parking. Cueva Pechina is a little further on from the parking. For Sector L'Altet, walk under Cueva Pechina and continue for about 10 minutes until the crag can be seen up and left on the hillside.

Restricted Access

Climbing has been banned on the routes in and around the caves of Cueva Pechina. A sign has been errected on the approach to the crag (saying something about Unesco world heritage status) and bolts have been removed from the cave.

Feb 19: The ban affects all routes in both caves and 2m either side. 

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Balcón
2 Ganimedes 5a 17
3 Europa 5a * 25
4 Titán 5c * 24
5 Júpiter 6a+ * 17
6 Orión 6c * 7
7 Reina de saba 6b+ * 7
8 Rínoceronte 6c *  
9 Akenaton 7a+ *  
10 Salomón 7a * 4
11 Dulce castigo 7a ** 8
12 Campurriano 7b+ *  
13 Capitán América 7b *  
14 Acécarme el agujero 7b+ ** 1
15 Tutankamon 6b+ *  
16 Cleopatra 6b *  
17 Celtas Cortos 6b ***  
18 Columbia 6a+ *** 3
19 Airbag 5a * 14
20 JB 5c * 14
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Bloque
22 Yertu primituvu 6a+  
23 Guapito bananas 6a+  
24 Tócate los huesos 6b  
25 Peña el porru 6b *  
26 Carne Val 6a+ * 15
27 Transilvania 6c * 9
28 Dràcula 6c+ * 5
29 Tarambanas 6b * 10
30 As de ases 7a * 10
31 Masacre 6a+ 2
32 Halloween 6a * 7
33 Xíus 6a+ * 3
34 Comanche 6b * 1
35 Pierdo verticalidad 6a+ * 1
36 Colores de guerra 6a ** 9
37 Asmático 6b+ * 1
38 Pedro Picapiedra 6b+ *  
39 Pablo Mármol 6a * 6
40 Hells Bells 6a 21
41 Consejo de guerra 6a+ * 7
42 Consejo de paz 6b ** 10
43 Yeti 6a+ ** 3
44 A escobazos con Guerola 6a+ ** 3
45 El atrofiat 6a *  
46 El attolladero 6b+ *  
47 Amordasat 6a * 3
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Verano
49 Invertidos de la ostia 6c+ * 3
50 Les grapes 6b+ * 4
51 Los mediocres 6b ** 16
52 Micro 6c ** 3
53 Pistacho 6b ** 14
54 El pastiset 6a * 16
55 Momo 6b+ * 2
56 Parasit 6a * 12
57 Bossím 6a * 8
58 Mister coki 6b ** 21
59 Amors 5c ** 28
60 Pobre Olivera 6b 1
61 Karkamal 6a+ 1
62 El amagatall 6a+ * 6
63 Capello 6c+ * 1
64 No me siento las piedras 6a+ * 6
65 Yohan 7a * 1
66 Champion's League 7a 1
67 Harley Davidson 6c+ *  
68 Brea 7a+ *  
69 Unknown 7a+ * 3
70 La pancheta gueroleta 6b * 1
71 Moco de pavo 7a * 2
72 Duracel 7a ** 6
73 Atlanta 6b ** 14
74 Popeye 6c+ *** 20
  Baranco Fondo - Sector Escharcha Negra
76 Sasoma 6b+ * 1
77 Cacolat del Marroc 7a+ ** 7
78 Alto Brons 7a+ * 4
79 Código rojo 6c * 7
80 Sed de dromedario 6b * 22
81 Sega 6b 3
82 Mega 6a+ * 2
83 Esquirol 6b ** 13
84 Psicosis 6b ** 11
85 Alparrus 6a+ ** 12
86 Sopletiste 6c+ *  
87 Trance 6c **  
88 Moreno 6b ** 13
89 Rompe gafas 6c+ ** 1
90 Rompe cojones 7a ** 1
91 Maldita sea mi suerte 6b ** 12
92 Tiempo perdido 6c * 3
93 Cuerdas gastadas 6a+ ** 24
94 A todo tren 6b * 1
Climb name Grade
95 La chicharra 6b 1
96 La porreta 6a+ * 9
97 La chufeta 6c *  
98 Sobaos 6b *  
99 Bujakes 6b * 3
100 Rayos uva 6c ** 1
101 Aquí macabatde fotre 7a+ *  
102 Carnestoltes 7a+ *  
103 Los suaves 6c * 2
104 Kakaolate 6b * 2
105 Terrorista en la autopista 7b * 2
106 Peligrosa María 6c * 5
107 Alcatraz 6b+ * 16
108 Siempre igual 6b * 23
109 Anfiteatro 6a+ * 28
110 Sudores 6a+ * 30
111 Calores 6a * 40
112 Temores 5a 37
113 Flautus cercanas 4c 11
114 Tambores lejanos 4c 13
  Cueva Pechina
116 El rio 4a 17
117 El molino 4c * 34
118 Pera pares 4c * 27
119 Pera nones 5c * 29
120 El perro 5c * 29
121 Unknown Climb 5c * 4
122 Casporillo 5a ** 56
123 Red Gash 4c ** 48
124 Es carlota 5a *** 88
125 Pure de pascueros 7b *** 24
126 Coloquiadio 6c+ *** 32
127 Warlock 7c+ ** 9
128 Anitesia 6c *** 54
129 Maldita Navidad 7c+ *** 1
130 Mutante 8a **  
131 Liante 8b **  
132 Slayer 8a  
133 Anaslayer 7c+  
134 Anaconda 7b+  
135 Gladiator 7a+ ** 2
136 Evolucion
-
6c 1
137 Colores 6c+ ** 8
138 Rompresas 7a+ * 1
139 Extrema y Dura 6c+ * 4
140 El muro de las lamentationes 7b+ 1
141 El trasgu 7a+ 3
142 La pelota de manterol 6b 3
143 Pechina Twenty Six 6c+ * 8
144 Pechina Twenty Seven 6b ** 21
145 El buitre pescador 6a+ ** 62
146 El albaran volador 6a *** 119
147 Odisea especial 6b *** 77
148 Mangurrian 7a ** 45
149 Chocolate de patora 7b ** 7
150 Cede al paso 7b * 1
151 Centenario guay 6b+ ** 21
152 Rock y ron 6c+ *  
153 El clan de los cuerdos 7a *  
154 El clan de los locos 7c  
  Sector L'Altet - Sol (Far Left)
156 Far Left 1 4b 2
157 Far Left 2
-
5a 2
158 Far Left 3 4c 2
159 Far Left 4 5a 2
160 Far Left 5 5b 2
161 Far Left 6 5b 2
162 Far Left 7 5a 2
163 Far Left 8 6a 1
164 Far Left 9 4a 1
165 Far Left 10 6a 1
166 Far Left 11 5b 1
167 Far Left 12 4a 1
168 Far Left 13 3b 1
169 Far Left 14
-
3b 1
170 Far Left 15 3b 1
171 Far Left 16 4a 2
172 Far Left 17 3b 1
  Sector L'Altet - Sol
174 L'Altet 4c * 11
175 Mentiros 4c * 15
176 Pinb 4c * 18
177 Barbate 5a * 18
178 Atun y chocolate 5c ** 21
179 Ninot diabolic 6a+ * 24
180 Palestina 6b * 10
181 Cangleio 6b * 17
182 San Dasporro de Asis 6c * 4
183 R.S.I. 6b+ * 3
184 Apreta que es fa Estreta 7a  
185 Kanum
-
7b+  
186 Nañes no me engañes 6c ** 8
187 Champona a la Antigua 6c+ ** 2
188 Munta los pens 6b+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
189 Rockodromo.com 7a *** 20
190 Red Rock 7b *** 1
191 Estado critico 8a+  
192 Qui Vulga Patir que Pata 8a+  
193 Cabezon Lopez 8b  
194 Is there a line here?? ?  
195 Sikadur 7c ** 1
196 Vents demunianya.com 7c 2
197 El guerrero pacifico 7a * 14
198 Tota Pedra fa Paret 6b * 5
199 Boomer 6a+ * 12
200 Carros de foc 6b * 14
201 Sau 6b+ * 8
202 Sopa de kabra 6b+ * 5
203 Carrer dels torrats 6c+ * 3
204 El boig de la ciutat 6b+ ** 14
205 Sota una estella 6c * 9
206 Els pets 6c+ * 4
207 La rata penada 6b+ * 4
208 Sahara 6b+ * 4
209 Baiseta 6b+ ** 15
210 Los demonios 6b+ * 6
211 El silencio de los borregos 6b+ ** 9
212 Torapia 7a+ * 1
213 Torrente 7a+ * 7
214 Tempestades 6b+ ** 5
215 El corredor 6c+ * 1
216 Vivorita 7a+ ** 12
217 Cobra 7a+ * 5
218 Euskadi 6b+ * 5
219 Irlanda 6b * 10
220 Johnny vive mucho 6a+ * 23
221 Cid Cabreador 6a+ * 17
222 Pelagra 6a+ * 10
  Sector L'Altet - Estiu Placa
224 Leonidas 6b * 2
225 Piscodelia 6c+ * 1
226 Estiroides 7a+ **  
227 Solo un canto 7a ** 7
228 Bloquea, bloquea 7a+ *  
229 Yo el ramallar 7a+ ** 1
230 Esta chorrera se mea 6c+ **  
231 Skalia 6b+ * 6
232 Pajararillo no vale el diedrillo 6c+ ** 3
233 Golum 6c+ *  
234 Smigol 6c * 2
235 Al Lorito con el 3r Pasito 6c+ **  
236 Hidrofobia 7a ** 6
237 Fumeta man 6c+ ** 2
238 The Art of Climbing ?  
239 In Your Face 7a+ ** 9
240 Bloque man 7a+ * 1
241 Avista depista 6c * 2
242 Cadena perpetua 6b+ * 2
243 Poco canto 6b * 9
244 Fisuritas 6a+ *** 38
245 Montesa vertical 6c * 12
246 Solo diedro 6a * 22
247 El faba de Ramonet 6b+ ** 10
248 Costa fina 6b * 10
249 La taca blanca 6a+ ** 19
250 No té eskakees 6c+ * 3
251 Nyanyes no m'enganyes 7a * 5
252 A lo hecho pecho 6c+ * 2
253 Naturlandia 6b+ *** 25
254 Pere flac 6b *** 42
255 Diumenge sanguinós 6c+ ** 4
256 Inorganització 7a+ ** 2
257 Karkoma 6b+ ** 4
258 ¿Y si vuelas medio metro? 6b+ ** 4
259 La historia de mi vida 7a *  
260 La vida es una historia 6c+ *  
261 Nomenatge al mestre guerola 6c *  
  Sector L'Altet - Estiu Desplom
263 El ramo de flores... ?  
264 Pocas tetas ?  
265 Project ?  
266 Project ?  
267 G.R.I.E.M. 8a ** 1
268 El cade naba 7c *  
269 El trapiecista 7a+ *** 10
270 Hierbas 7b ***  
271 La guarra ?  
272 La rebaja ?  
273 Cocacola, cafes y porros 7b+ *** 1
274 Baila el chiquili cuatro 7b ** 3
275 Pocos mocos 7b+ *** 10
276 Yo el halcon 7a ** 19
277 Bloquea perrea 7a * 2
278 Sino vas ni patras no encadenarras 6c * 1
279 Esto es lo que hay ?  
280 El señor de los videos 6c * 1
281 Si subo como un rayo no fallo 6b+ * 1
282 Cada maestrillo tien su librillo 6c *  

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