Climbs 35
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 381m a.s.l

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Nathan Lee preparing for the last slap on Conie Lamiche © nathanlee

Crag features

A small Limestone outcrop in a sheltered dale that has been developed mainly by Jon Fullwood and Ned Feehally. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and it is well worth a visit if operating at font 7A or above.

Approach notes

Access issues have recently been reported getting to the crag (the crag itself is on open access land but the approach is not). Negotiations are ongoing through the Peak Park access team to hopefully establish an improved permissive access route to prevent damage to walls/fences which is a concern for the landowners. Please stay away from the crag for the time being whilst this discussion takes place to ensure no incidents jeapordise negotiations. from 25/05/2018

The crag is on CRoW land so climbing should not be a problem. However, problems have arisen with climbers causing damage to walls while accessing the crag, ONLY CROSS WALLS AT A STILE/GATE. From parking in Peak Forest (GPS Coords: 53.313851, -1.827821). Follow the track heading NE to Conies Farm. After the track a public footpath continues through two fields and crosses one stile (53.319414, -1.822014), in the third field there is another stile in the bottom right-hand corner of the field (the corner nearest the parking; 53.318933,-1.820976). Once over the stile follow wall up the valley carefully crossing a fence. See attached map (photos tab). Take extreme care to avoid damaging walls, and be polite to anyone with any concerns.

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there shouldn't be any issues witrh climbing, however access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields and damaged dry stone walls climbing over them. Please be respectful of local people to ensure access problems don't arise here - only cross walls at a stile/gate and make sure you park responsibly to avoid future conflict.

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info. There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Some issues with access to this crag have arisen due to climbers causing damage to walls while approaching. There should be no need to cross any walls except at stiles/gates. However, there is a fence that must be crossed. Please follow the approach described here http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/155-conies-dale thank you
highrepute - 22/Apr/14
Beta video here - http://www.vimeo.com/29915743
nathanlee - 02/Oct/11
Anyone climbing font 7a on Peak Limestone needs to pay this place a visit. Great dynamic climbing and not as loose as it looks.
nathanlee - 02/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Buttress
2 Conie Montana left f6A+ 17
3 Conie Montana f6B 43
4 Conie Baloney f6C 4
5 Conie Yeboah f7A * 82
6 Conie Toutts f7A * 99
7 Conie Lamiche f7A ** 72
8 Conie Ferrino f7B ** 19
9 Beak Forest f7C+ * 4
10 Conie Island Elephant f7A+ * 26
11 Conie Simpson f7A+ ** 35
12 Conie Lamprecht f7A ** 81
13 Conie Musslebrook Non Original f6C+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
14 Conie Musselbrook (Original) f7B 19
15 Conies Dyno f7B * 1
16 Conie Whitehouse f7A+ * 19
17 Conie Pepperoni f6B * 56
18 Conie Montant
-
f6B 29
19 Conie Hancock f7A *  
  Link-ups & Eliminates
21 Conie Montana Far Left f6C * 1
22 Conie Toutts Left f7A * 2
23 Conie Jaa f7A 12
24 Conie Yeboah into Conie Montana f6B+ * 1
25 Conie Soprano f7A+ 7
26 Conie Soprano Direct f7A 2
Climb name Grade
27 My little Conie f7A+ 12
28 Stg. Peppers Conie Heart Club Band f7B 4
29 Big Fat Conie f7B 8
30 Conie Arbones f7B 1
31 Poor Man's Conie Ferrino f7A 3
32 Conie Iommi f7B 1
33 Conie Bennett f7A *  
34 Conie the Tiger f7B * 2
  Side Buttress
36 Conie Head f6A 36
37 Conie Blackburn f7A * 43
38 Conie Braxton f7A+ 12

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