Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sue Hazel on the dramatic finale to Pigs on The Wing (HVS 5a) © Kafoozalem

Crag features

This fine, outstanding buttress (in every sense of the word) is a delight, and home to a clutch of excellent multi-pitch up-and-sideways jaunts, such as the very exposed excursion of Welcome to the Cruise (HVS) and, if you add that elusive two-pitch classic, Deep Throat (E3), you'll have more than enough to throw yourself at for a day (and possibly the night too...). The buttress is hard to view from the coast path, meaning knowledge is only gained after committing to an approach, although the photo to the right helps. Maximum adventure found right here - dust off your abseil rope and get on board. 

Approach notes

Triple Overhang is a touch nearer St Govan's car park than Stack Rocks car park.

From St Govan's car park - Walk for about 1¾ km west along the coast path to the second cattle grid. Continue for 150m then head left along the headland. 

From Stack Rocks car park - Walk for about 2km east along the coast path to Mewsford where there is a mound of earth. Continue for about 400m then head right along the headland. 

Approach (Routes 1 to 3) - Abseil direct down the groove of Galactic Co-ordinator to a small ledge at its base. Outside the nesting season you can scramble down easy rock to the left (looking in) of the buttress to reach this same point.

Approach (Deep Throat) - Make a spectacular free-hanging abseil to a non-tidal ledge at the base of the route. You will need to swing and place the odd runner to gain this ledge, but at low tide you will be able to scramble up to it. Outside the nesting season you can scramble down easy rock to the left (looking in) of the buttress and take an awkward high traverse line to the same point, or an easier low tide line. You can also abseil down for Galactic Co-ordinator and traverse across at any time of year although avoid rough seas.

Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbs between Hororscope and Galactic Coordinator inlusive can only be reached by abseil during 1st March to 1st August (don't scramble in from the west as this approach encroaches on the restriction to the west).There is also a nesting season restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) covering Star Control to Rabbit Ripper inlcuding all 3 girdle traverses. This includes Deep Throat.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Galactic Co-Ordinator HVS 5a ** 125
2 Star Control E2 5b * 14
3 Welcome to the Cruise HVS 5a *** 39
4 Pigs on the Wing HVS 5a *** 130
5 Deep Throat E3 5c ** 33
Climb name Grade
6 Heart
-
E1 5b * 5
7 The Mary Millington Incident E2 5c 3
8 Omega
-
VS 6
9 Beachcomber
-
E4 6a *** 1
10 Soft touch
-
E2 5b 2
Climb name Grade
11 Softer option
-
HVS 5a 3
12 Pas De Deux
-
E1 5b 1
13 Piranha 2
-
HVS 5a 2

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