Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

Crag features

Monk's Buttress is, for most of the year, a shady, brooding section of cliff that towers over the valley and sees less attention than most of the other crags. There are some great trad lines here and several hard routes which have Clwyd's hallmark of a few pieces of fixed gear including the odd bolt, peg and thread. The rock quality is variable, but many of the climbs are on compact limestone. The far right-hand end of Monk's Buttress is only a stone's throw away from the left end of Dinbren and it is relatively simple to traverse between the two crags.

Approach notes

From Llangollen, follow the road to the junction at 1.8 miles. Continue up the narrow valley road for 0.4 miles to a parking place just before a gated track on the right, as the road drops down into the trees (more parking is available back down the road if the lay-by is full). From the parking, take the gated track for 100m and then follow the wide valley above to the base of the Pinfold escarpment. Cross the stream and follow a narrow path underneath Monkshead Buttress and continue traversing beneath a series of small broken crags until a solid buttress of compact rock is reached. Alternatively approach by a quick walk from the end of Dinbren's leftmost buttresses (useful if parking is full).

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sir Cathcart Area
2 Lucy
-
VS 4c 1
3 Wriggle Gully
-
S  
4 Black Moments E4 6b *  
5 Mainly for Pleasure E2 5b  
6 The Rebel VS 4c 2
7 Sombre Music E5 6b  
8 Second Chance E1 5b  
9 Suspended Animation E1 5b  
10 Grand Laddie VD 2
11 Amocco Cadiz HVS 4c  
12 Only a Gesture E1 5a  
13 Topology VD 2
14 Cotteril's Found Another Toe E5 6c *  
15 Fa├žade E2 5b  
16 Pierrepoint Pressure 7b+ *  
17 The Hype HVS 5a 1
18 Beryl VS 4c 12
19 Tamsin E3 6a *  
20 The Race is On E3 6a  
21 Catch Me if You Can E5 6a *  
22 Sir Cathcart D'Eath E3 6a *** 6
23 Screaming Lord Sutch E5 6a *** 3
24 Another Red Line E4 6a *** 2
25 Vladimir and Olga E3 5c  
26 Iceburn E5 6a *  
27 Up the Veil E4 6b  
  Jibber Area
29 The Mantilla E3 5c  
30 Adam's Mistake E3 5c *  
31 Post Mortem of a Football Team E3 6a *  
32 Kinsman HS 4a 6
33 Cat in a Rat Trap E3 6a * 1
34 The Evader VS 4c * 11
35 Life E1 5b ** 5
36 Edgeley E5 6b **  
37 Jibber E1 5b *** 14
38 Breaking the Reality Effect E3 6a ** 9
39 Ginger Crack HVS 5a  
40 Malevolence HVS 5a 2
41 Madonna Kebab E1 5a  
42 Scatological S 1
43 Smooth Hands S 4a 1
44 Desperado E5 6a *  
45 Little Deal HS 4b 2
  The Forgotten Buttresses
47 Cloven Hoof E1 5b  
48 Codify VS 4c  
49 Memorable Stains E5 6b *  
50 Gigolo HVS 5b * 1
51 Thick as a Brick E2 5c * 2
52 As Monk as a Skunk E1 5b  
53 Lightly Salted E1 5a  
54 Coal not Dole E1 5b  
55 Soft Delight HVS 5a  
56 Just a Sprinkling HVS 5a  
57 Hard Crust E5 6a *  
58 Dusting Over E1 5a  
59 Dig Deep HVS 5a  
60 Depth Charge VS 4c  
61 Curly Bit HVS 5a  
62 A Touch of Spice E4 6a * 1

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