Climbs 48
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 384m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

A fine crag with a dramatic outlook over Toulon, and some excellent long pitches on fantastic grey rock. The easy accessibility and sunny sheltered nature of the crag are added bonuses. 

The crag faces due south and is sheltered both by the bulk of Mount Faron and by its bowl-shaped nature. It can get very hot here, even in winter. It is largely sheltered from the Mistral.

Approach notes

Téléphérique is the highest of the three crags described on Mount Faron and the key to getting to it is to aim for the lower station of the Téléphérique. The coastal A50 (eastern) and A57 (western) motorways have a 2.5km section of ‘normal’ trunk road passing through the centre of Toulon, just north of the port. Turn north from the end of either motorway (signed 'Toulon Centre'). Mount Faron and its Téléphérique are sign-posted from the city, if in doubt, keep heading due north (uphill).

Once at the Téléphérique station, drive past it as the road - the Boulevard de l’Amiral Vence - bends left and becomes the Cornice Emile Fabre and eventually the Route du Faron. This is a narrow, winding road which leads round past the parking for Citerne and on up the one-way system. Park on the third hairpin bend (busy at weekends) with a viewpoint over to the right. The crag is visible from here and is reached in 5 minutes via a good track.

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 Hermès-toth (P1) 5a * 1
3 La ruée vers l'art 6b **  
4 Hermès-toth 6c ***  
5 Mon petit cœur (P1) 5a * 3
6 Mon petit cœur 6a+ *** 2
7 Tchounologue (P1) 5a * 2
8 Tchounologue 5c ** 5
9 Priape, Dieu des manches 4c *** 3
10 Le dormeur du val 6b+ * 1
11 Ghost Angel 6b+ *  
12 Comme un Russe 6b+ *  
13 L'arrache cœur 1 5a ** 5
14 L'arrache cœur 2 5c ** 4
15 L'arrache cœur 3 5a ** 7
16 L'arrache cœur 4 4a * 5
17 La corde au cou 5c *** 3
18 Renaissance 5a *** 1
19 Face de poulpe 5c *** 2
20 Fine mouche 6a+ *** 1
21 Marco Polo 6c ***  
22 Peau de chagrin 6b+ *** 1
23 Mourir de rire 6b+ *** 1
24 Laisse béton 5c *** 1
25 Sous l'œil de krom 5a *** 1
26 Petites vermines 5a ** 3
27 Sam is fat 7b *  
28 Le seigneur du fleuve 7a+ ***  
29 Voyage 6b ***  
30 Le livre de la vie 5a *** 3
31 Les larmes d'Allah 7a *  
32 Delph 6b ***  
33 Papa Tango 5a *** 4
34 Traquenard 6a+ ***  
35 Super Félix (P1) 6c+ *  
36 Super Félix 6c+ ***  
  The Pyramids
38 Croque la vie 6a+ ***  
39 Le palanquin des larmes 7a ***  
40 La fissure 6a+ ***  
41 Quatre 6b ***  
42 Cinq 6a ***  
43 Six 6a **  
44 Octobre rouge 6a *  
45 Crache ton venin 6c *  
46 Les chevaux de feu 6b+ ***  
47 Les mots pour le dire 6c+ ***  
48 Regards et sourires 6a ** 1
49 Les morts ont tous la même peau 5c **  
50 Amarok 6a+ **  

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