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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 26
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Alex Mason on the brilliant Release the Hounds. The best sport route in north wales? © rockcat

Crag features

Creigiau Cigfran features natural microdiorite with sport climbs up to 43 metres over several sectors including what is reputedly "the best sport climb in North Wales" - Release the Hounds.
The sectors are left to right:
Great Wall Area
Release the Hounds Area
Fence Buttress
Black Slab

Approach notes

Approaches Turn off the A55 at J15 (Llanfairfechan East), turn immediately L towards Pendalar and park just before the road turns uphill (SH 688 756). Go up the road on foot, pass to the R of the community centre and follow the path up to a gate into the woods (Tyddin Drycin). Turn L immediately after the gate and follow the track as it bends R and runs up past a mesh fence. Go through a hole in the fence and continue R for another 25 m to a track that leads back L up 2 inclines and past 2 drum houses. From the 2nd drum house go horizontally NE (along the track of an old narrow-gauge railway line). After 100 m (just after the 2nd horizontal guy of the rockfall fence - GR SH 694 757) is a hollow containing a small building (Capel Seiriol)1 . For Fence Buttress follow a small path R up an old incline until just above a stonefall protection fence (and the adjoining gorse patch!) then traverse down and left to the foot of the routes. For Black Slab continue up the incline to the next drum house. Just above this, traverse the hillside R on a faint path to the foot of the slab.

The North Wales Limestone guide is incorrect for the approach to Release the Hounds etc. from Llanfairfechan. At the entrance to the country park turn left on the blue path not right.
rockcat - 26/Jul/15
To get to Camouflage Slab follow the usual approach to the "low fence supports" on the final horizontal section then head R up an old incline to a winding house. Just above the winding house follow a faint path R across the hillside until below the slab, which lies just past the first prominent (sharp) rock rib above the path. The slab is always black even when dry.
harold walmsley - 24/Sep/14
The new A55 climb book says to go right through the large black gate. Don't - it should say left!! Follow the turquoise waymark arrows until you reach a fence. This is a tall wire one, with a wirecuttered hole ripped in it. Go though the hole then bushwhack up a rough path to the incline.
hms - 24/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Great Wall Area
2 Gadaffi the Diplomat 6c+ * 2
3 Osama Bin Bin Bag 6c+ 3
4 The Last Waltz
6a * 33
5 Great Wall 6b ** 33
6 Great Wall Direct 6c+ * 4
7 All the Year Round 6c  
  Release the Hounds Area
9 The Hunt 6c+ *** 69
10 Release the Hounds 7c *** 40
Climb name Grade
  Fence Buttress
12 Beyond the Pale 6a * 8
13 Lap Dog 6b 4
14 Purple Patch 6b ** 13
15 Don't Fence Me in 5c * 26
16 Blue Streak 5c * 30
  Black Slab
18 Dark Matter 6a+ * 11
19 Heart of Darkness 6a * 17
20 Black Slab (was Camouflage Slab). 6a * 19
21 Into the light 6b * 4
Climb name Grade
  Trad Routes
23 Deep Impact E3 5b  
24 The Great Corner E4 6a 1
25 Curving Crack Rib *
26 Grotto Crack *
27 The Arete *
VD 1
28 Truant Rib *
29 Backdoor Wall *
30 The Kestrel *
VS 4c  
31 Central Gully * M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rockcat