Climbs 21
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces NW

Alex Mason on the brilliant Release the Hounds. The best sport route in north wales? © rockcat

Crag features

Creigiau Cigfran features natural microdiorite with sport climbs up to 43 metres over several sectors including what is reputedly "the best sport climb in North Wales" - Release the Hounds.
The sectors are:
Diplomatic Area
Last Waltz
Great Wall
Hounds Area
Fence Buttress
Black Slab

Approach notes

Park at Pendalar on the outskirts of Llanfairfechan and head for the old quarry incline which is visible towards the east of the town. The incline leads to a good track which contours the hillside and the crag is above this a short distance further east.

For Black Slab and Fence Buttress follow the regular access route 100 m along the contouring track (just beyond the "low fence supports" sign). From here follow a small track R up an overgrown incline to an old winding house. Fence Buttress is above the large mesh fence part way up this incline. For Black Slab traverse the hillside R from just above the winding house on a faint path. The slab is just beyond the first sharp rock rib.

The North Wales Limestone guide is incorrect for the approach to Release the Hounds etc. from Llanfairfechan. At the entrance to the country park turn left on the blue path not right.
rockcat - 26/Jul/15
To get to Camouflage Slab follow the usual approach to the "low fence supports" on the final horizontal section then head R up an old incline to a winding house. Just above the winding house follow a faint path R across the hillside until below the slab, which lies just past the first prominent (sharp) rock rib above the path. The slab is always black even when dry.
harold walmsley - 24/Sep/14
The new A55 climb book says to go right through the large black gate. Don't - it should say left!! Follow the turquoise waymark arrows until you reach a fence. This is a tall wire one, with a wirecuttered hole ripped in it. Go though the hole then bushwhack up a rough path to the incline.
hms - 24/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Gadaffi the Diplomat 6c+ * 2
2 Osama Bin Bin Bag 6c+ 3
3 The Last Waltz
-
6a * 23
4 Great Wall
-
6b ** 27
5 Great Wall Direct
-
6c+ * 4
6 All the Year Round
-
6c  
7 The Hunt 6c+ *** 64
8 Release the Hounds 7c *** 30
9 Don't Fence Me in 5c * 6
10 Blue Streak 5c * 8
11 Dark Matter 6a+ * 3
12 Heart of Darkness 6a * 5
13 Black Slab (was Camouflage Slab). 6a * 6
14 Into the light 6b * 1
15 Curving Crack Rib *
-
D  
16 Grotto Crack *
-
S  
17 The Arete *
-
VD 1
18 Truant Rib *
-
M  
19 Backdoor Wall *
-
D  
20 The Kestrel *
-
VS 4c  
21 Central Gully * M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rockcat