Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 593m a.s.l
Faces W

Kasamyra Sainsbury on Buff © Thomas Ball

Crag features

The elongated hulk of Alaró dominates the view towards the mountains when travelling along the main road that crosses the interior of Mallorca. The small number of existing routes are mostly brilliant and on wonderful rock formations. Sector Chorreras offers 30m pitches up immaculate tufa systems ranging from the pencil-thin to tree-trunk-like. Just to the right, some incredible looking high-grade lines that take the wall above the older slab routes have been established. The other two sectors are not quite as spectacular, but still have some major routes. These include some easier ones on Paret de sa Porta, and some multi-pitch routes on Sector del Medio.

Approach notes

 

Drive into Alaró and pick up signs for 'Castillo d'Alaró'. It is possible to avoid the complex centre if you turn right on entering the town (as shown on the map), but if you miss this, there are other options. Once on the road up the hill it soon turns into a twisting dirt track. Eventually the track arrives at the restaurant. Park here, or, if this is full, at some pull-ins further down the road. For the detailed approaches see the individual sector descriptions. It is also possible to drive on further up the track and park at the top, although this isn't advised as the gate by the restaurant is sometimes shut in the evenings and the track is very rough.

Access Advice

 

The landowners do not permit climbing and there have been problems with access in the distant past particularly on the Paret de sa Porta crags directly below the castle itself. In the more remote sectors, problems are very unlikely to occur. The best advice is to use only the described approaches and to leave if asked.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Paret de sa Porta
2 Glue-ins 7b+  
3 A 7b ** 4
4 B 7a *** 10
5 C 6c * 7
6 D 6a ** 26
7 Still a Project? 7b  
8 Esteban 7b+ ** 2
9 ¿Amigos para siempre? 7c+ ***  
10 Foam Party 7c ***  
11 ¡Muérete ya! 7c ***  
12 Project 1 Project  
13 Zatropeck 7c ***  
14 Old Bolts 7b  
15 Aferra el tul 6c * 7
16 Mata guiris 7a+ ** 4
17 No res 7a+ ** 6
18 Frit 6a * 19
19 Sobrassada 5a * 26
20 Bulge By-pass 6a+ ** 26
21 Snowboard 5c * 26
22 Fido-dido 6a * 19
23 Vagon roll 4c * 10
24 Las mallas de cristo 5a * 12
25 Tiddler 5c  
26 Hola qué tal 6a 9
27 Far right line 6a * 1
  Sector del Medio
29 Pitopausico 6c  
30 Via antigua con burlies Project  
31 Triquinosis 6c *** 2
32 Idiot Ballroom 7b+ ***  
33 Idiot Ballroom (first pitch)
-
6c+ *** 1
34 Blobs 'n' Bushes 7b+ ***  
35 Sa curta 5c  
36 Sa figuereta 6b+ ** 7
37 Left Line 5c ** 9
38 Right Line 6b+ ** 10
39 Wall 'n' Crack 6b+ 3
40 S'acabat 6c *** 8
41 Lute 7a ** 4
42 Superchorrera access 6a 6
43 Superchorrera 7b *** 4
44 XTR 7b+ *** 2
45 Therapy 7b *** 2
46 Magnum 7a+ ***  
  Sector Chorreras
48 Afircaners 7b  
49 Orion 6c+ 1
50 Project 1 Project  
51 Ali-up 8a  
52 Hob nops 7a *** 20
53 Buf!! 7a *** 93
54 To pa ti 7a+ *** 34
55 Clonción 7b *** 5
56 Pilar 7b *** 7
57 Project 2 Project  
  Sector Kiko
59 "DIG FOR GOLD!" 6c+ * 2
60 Lone Ranger 7b **  
61 Oh My God 7b+ *  
62 Slab 1 6c ** 22
63 Lluvia dorado 6b+ * 4
64 Miko Moko 6c * 5
65 Ramon me ha hecho el avión 6a+ * 19
66 Pincha uvas 5c ** 60
67 Pinchas uvas Extension 7b+ ***  
68 Kiko 6a ** 67
69 Grey Slab Left 4c 9
70 Grey Slab Right 4c 8
71 Claro de Luna 7c ***  
72 Influjos Solares 7c ***  
73 Buitres Negros 8a ***  
74 Corvus 8b ***  
75 Paris Conexión Project  
76 Flashback Samurai 7c+ ***  
77 Poker Face 7b+ *** 2
78 Escamas de Dragon 7c ***  
79 Xavier 7b **  
80 Luna 7c **  
  New Routes - Location Unknown

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