Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 274m a.s.l
Faces W

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black widow © alexmannionclimbing

Crag features

Cilsanws is a medium sized boulder field located just off the road at the top of Cefn Coed, Merthyr Tydfil. The crag consists of a series of boulders around 3m in height there are some worthwhile problems most being in the grade range of low to mid grade climbers with some harder stuff dotted around the crag.

Approach notes

Follow the A470 until it crosses the A465 take the exit towards Abergavenny, follow the road for 500 yards and take the first exit on the left (signposted to Prince Charles Hospital) follow the road for 100 m until a junction is reaches and take a left, follow the road and take the second third into Cloth Hall Lane and follow this and park at Merthyr Tydfil golf club. Park here and make your way across the small footpath until you reach the small outcrop of rock, Please be aware that this is a nature reserve, so try to cause as little of an impact as you can whilst you are here and take your rubbish home with you.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

The directions weren't completely clear. If you can find Cloth Hall Lane on your satnav it'll get you to the golf club. Otherwise: come off the A465 towards Abergavenny as described. Turn left at the T junction, then first right (before Cilsanws Lane) , then left at the T-junction into Cloth Hall Lane and follow it up. (There are other ways to CLoth Hall lane from other directions but the above is probably the simplest.) Other comment: pretty brackenny today! difficult to access certain boulders but the main outcrop was mostly OK - presumably spring is a better time to visit? It was a good time of the year for bilberries however..
kebl1109 - 01/Aug/15
Some great rock, perfect for a summer's evening! One of the local residents has asked if climbers can park at the nearby golf course instead of the layby directed to in the description: take the first right (the one before Cilsanws Lane) then left at the T junction and right at the end into the golf course.
JamesBurton - 12/Jul/13
Well worth a visit
fyfee8a - 29/Aug/12
becoming a great little venue, nice to see the local strongmen come out and repeat to
alexmannionclimbing - 22/May/12
Really good bouldering, quick drying as well. The overhanging side of the lower boulder is especially good, and the rain doesn't even touch it.
cover09 - 15/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Outcrop
2 Wallit V1 21
3 Diced, Not Sliced V1 20
4 Refraction V2 * 19
5 Squidgy Palms V0 18
6 Compressor V3 * 18
7 Anchor V0+ 16
8 Midge et V0 20
9 Draconian V3 16
10 Topo Blindness * f5 1
  Middle Boulder
12 Congergation V2 7
13 Correlations V2 12
14 Citation V2 9
15 Celsius V1 7
  Lower Boulder
17 Close Quarters V2 11
18 Orme/Close Quarters, V2 9
19 Orme V0+ 9
20 The Penny Thief V4 * 13
Climb name Grade
21 Veritas V5 ** 14
22 Veritas Direct V3 12
23 The Truth will set you Free V5 9
  Triangle Boulder
25 East Pickings V2 7
26 Nomimal V3 8
27 Over lining V2 6
  Great Slabs
29 Saddle Up V0 10
30 Ring Roads V0- 10
31 Lakeland V0 10
  Cube Boulder
33 Sense of Elation V0 9
34 Sense and Sensibilty VB 9
35 RRP V1 8
36 Council Tax V1 9
37 Everything in Moderation V1 9
  Overhang Boulder
39 Al's Roof V4 * 14
Climb name Grade
  Small Rising Block
41 Uprising V2 4
42 Rock Block V3 4
  Large Rising Block
44 Sturgeon V2 4
45 Med Kit V1 4
46 Slapper V4 ** 5
  Huggy Block
48 Huggy Bear V5 ** 5
49 One Inch Pinch V2 * 5
  Pit Area
51 Cilsanws Classic V2 *** 6
52 Black Widow V3 ** 6
53 Hole In One V0 3
54 Spiders Arete VB * 2
  Upper North Boulders
56 The Basic VB *** 4
57 Pocket Traverse V1 ** 3
58 Woman's day V2 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jordan Harris