Altitude 479m a.s.l
Adam Brown on Sex Cannabis (7b) at Castell de Santueri, Mallorca © Ciaran Tracey
Perched high on an isolated hilltop, the crag at Felanitx is a lovely place with wide views and some superb climbing. The crag itself is located on the lower walls of a small hill which is home to a 13th Century Moorish castle. For the most part the rock around the castle offers little for the climber, but on the south east side there is a large vertical wall, covered in small tufas, and a vast cave which tunnels right into the hillside under the castle. All of the routes are in the higher grades with the easiest route being 6c and most much harder. There are two distinct styles to the routes here; firstly, the brutally-steep cave routes that are so beloved by the modern hard climber; and secondly, the slightly overhanging wall climbs that cater for the less powerful player. All of the climbs are well equipped and this is a good place to head for if it is raining, although it does seep after prolonged rainfall. A few of the climbs have chipped or glued-on holds and the longer pitches in the cave are split by various lower-offs and graded accordingly.
Head towards the town of Felanitx on the southwest corner of the island (this is in the general direction of Santanyí). From Felanitx, take the road sign posted to Santanyí. About 2km after leaving Felanitx, take the road signed to the 'Castell de Santueri'. Take care not to turn to the Monasteri de Santueri. Drive up a narrow, winding road to the castle and park. Just to the right of the steps going to the castle is a path going down steeply to the right on polished rock. Follow this, past two bolt-lines, to the huge cave on the left.
You are not allowed to climb here and during the summer months you will be stopped at the car park by an attendant. It is still climbed on in the winter by locals although you may still be turned away then as well.
|Tried to climb here a couple of days ago (August 2011). The access is blocked by a building site and high scaffolding to repair the castle walls. We talked to one of the builders (site foreman?). He was pretty unfriendly and said he would call the guardia if we tried to access or climb on the crag which is just round the corner. He said that climbing was banned on the mountain. :-(|
ukb & bmc shark - 29/Aug/11