Climbs 5
Rocktype Trachyte
Altitude 151m a.s.l
Faces all
A nice little spot both in and out of the sun that you can't see from the road when heading out of Haddington. Increasingly ovegrown with gorse bushes restricting route choice and making access via base of the crag difficult.
Some small sections are a bit green and there is a quite a bit of obvious loose rock in areas but on the whole, after knocking off a bit more of the loose stuff, there is a bit of potential here.
Large veins of blue volcanic rock run through the far left wall and some patches of the other walls. Most of this is loose and will come out in big blocks. Make sure to give any rock near the blue stuff a knock to see it if it's any good. Most gear on the far left wall shouldn't be trusted, although there is possible routes up it.
There's a couple of blocks with some decent bouldering as you go in on the left and the far end has fairly solid walls, void of the blue stuff, with some possible protection, up to about 7m.
Head to Aberlady from Haddington on the A6137.
Just before the top of the hill, park in the layby by a sign-posted public footpath on the right side of the road.
Head east along the path until you come to a farm gate with the remains of a stone house and some steep south facing loose rock at the other end of the field.
Hop the gate and walk east along the bottom of the rock and slightly uphill through some gorse to get to the entrance of the crag on your left.
Went back for another look this afternoon, turns out that I was trying to get in the hard way. Walk along the top of the loose rock near the ruined house to find an easy scramble down into the quarry. No bushwacking needed :-)
martinj - 22/Mar/20 |
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Tried to get to the crag this evening but couldn't find a way through the gorse, even using my pad as a battering ram! If anyone fancies heading down there with machetes to try and clear a path let me know. martinj - 20/Sep/19 |
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