Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces N

Jamie on FA of deLUXe boyz © Tom Last

Crag features

The northerly aspect of the woods in this part of Luxulyan Valley provides a more open atmosphere - akin to a poor man's Bovey Woods - than the heavily wooded slopes on the other side of the valley. The ground is also less steep than opposing slopes and landings are generally good. Like elsewhere in Luxulyan, the topsoil is loose however, so erosion is a problem and mats are advised.

Currently the area has one route and a nice bouldering circuit in the VB-V3 range, with a couple of highballs and room for more development.

Problems are for the most part clean, although some topouts are a bit vegetated.

From Upper - Far Left area, the boulders are described clockwise (looking in) across the upper tier from left to right, then right to left across the lower tier. The Diamond and Brutus areas are lower down and are the first areas to be encountered on the approach.

Approach notes

Access is on public land and is allowed. To get to the rocks. From the A390, take the Pont Mill turning, about half a mile north east of the level crossing at St Blazey. From Pont Mill car park, walk along the westbound track, continuing past the right hand turn (which leads to Carmear Rock) and pass under the viaduct. After about quarter of a mile, the path crosses the river, 20 yards further on turn left and double back up the slope trending left and up a steep muddy bike track. Join another larger track heading east for a short distance until either the low overhang of Brutus, or some old north shore mountain biking tracks can be seen above. The majority of the problems lie directly above where the woods border the field. All the problems are described in a clockwise fashion in relation to the Far Left - Upper area (deLUXe boyz, BAKDAFUKUP etc, see photo) in the 'Crag Features' section of this page.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper - Far Left 
2deLUXe boyzV1 **2
 Beaver Trigger 
5Beaver TriggerV3  
6FingersV2 3
7Slabby SlabVB 3
 The Undiscovered Country 
9The Far FutureVB 2
10The Undiscovered CountryV1 **3
11Crystal MethodV5 **1
12Cannily CannilyV1 **2
13Bonnie L'al BairnikieV0 1
 Upper - Central 
15Curving AreteV1 2
16Good DaysV3 **3
 Upper - Far Right 
18St Piran's DayV0 2
19Jamie's Inside RouteV1 2
20Rebecca's WorldS 4a 3
 One Move Wonder Area 
22Left Boulder OverhangV1 1
23Left Boulder Right WallV0 1
24Right Boulder SlabV0+ 1
 Lower - Far Right 
26Blunt AreteV0+ 3
 Lower - Central 
28Right Angle AreteV0 3
29An Attempt To Tip The Scalesf6A+ **2
30Slab FlakesV0 2
 Lower - Far Left 
32Dead Tree AreteV0 2
 Diamond Block 
34Diamond - Left Arete
V0 1
35Diamond - Flakes
V0 1
36Diamond - Right Arete
V0 1
38BrutusV3 *2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last