Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

Jamie on FA of deLUXe boyz © Tom Last

Crag features

The northerly aspect of the woods in this part of Luxulyan Valley provides a more open atmosphere - akin to a poor man's Bovey Woods - than the heavily wooded slopes on the other side of the valley. The ground is also less steep than opposing slopes and landings are generally good. Like elsewhere in Luxulyan, the topsoil is loose however, so erosion is a problem and mats are advised.

Currently the area has one route and a nice bouldering circuit in the VB-V3 range, with a couple of highballs and room for more development.

Problems are for the most part clean, although some topouts are a bit vegetated.

From Upper - Far Left area, the boulders are described clockwise (looking in) across the upper tier from left to right, then right to left across the lower tier. The Diamond and Brutus areas are lower down and are the first areas to be encountered on the approach.

Approach notes

Access is on public land and is allowed. To get to the rocks. From the A390, take the Pont Mill turning, about half a mile north east of the level crossing at St Blazey. From Pont Mill car park, walk along the westbound track, continuing past the right hand turn (which leads to Carmear Rock) and pass under the viaduct. After about quarter of a mile, the path crosses the river, 20 yards further on turn left and double back up the slope trending left and up a steep muddy bike track. Join another larger track heading east for a short distance until either the low overhang of Brutus, or some old north shore mountain biking tracks can be seen above. The majority of the problems lie directly above where the woods border the field. All the problems are described in a clockwise fashion in relation to the Far Left - Upper area (deLUXe boyz, BAKDAFUKUP etc, see photo) in the 'Crag Features' section of this page.

Access Banned

The landowner has stated emphatically that climbing and bouldering cannot be permitted here. The reason for this is specific to this relatively small site and climbing areas elsewhere in Luxulyan Valley are unaffected.

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper - Far Left
2 deLUXe boyz V1 ** 2
  Beaver Trigger
5 Beaver Trigger V3  
6 Fingers V2 3
7 Slabby Slab VB 3
  The Undiscovered Country
9 The Far Future VB 2
10 The Undiscovered Country V1 ** 3
11 Crystal Method V5 ** 1
12 Cannily Cannily V1 ** 2
13 Bonnie L'al Bairnikie V0 1
Climb name Grade
  Upper - Central
15 Curving Arete V1 2
16 Good Days V3 6a ** 3
  Upper - Far Right
18 St Piran's Day V0 2
19 Jamie's Inside Route V1 2
20 Rebecca's World S 4a 3
  One Move Wonder Area
22 Left Boulder Overhang V1 1
23 Left Boulder Right Wall V0 1
24 Right Boulder Slab V0+ 1
  Lower - Far Right
26 Blunt Arete V0+ 3
Climb name Grade
  Lower - Central
28 Right Angle Arete V0 3
29 An Attempt To Tip The Scales f6A+ ** 2
30 Slab Flakes V0 2
  Lower - Far Left
32 Dead Tree Arete V0 2
  Diamond Block
34 Diamond - Left Arete
V0 1
35 Diamond - Flakes
V0 1
36 Diamond - Right Arete
V0 1
38 Brutus V3 6a * 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last