Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces N

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frapogalo,secret garden, kalymnos,greece © galerito

Crag features

The hidden bay of Palionisos on Kalymnos's north coast is now easily reached by road, but previously this secluded valley was only accessible by sea. There are four cliffs here. Secret Garden is an excellent crag that was developed in secret, but is now very much on the circuit and has become popular both for the shade on offer and the great climbing. More visible are the prominent Red Wall and the Beach and Bay crags above the tiny village. There are still undeveloped cliffs here, as well as three new bars/tavernas. It is also a great swimming spot. 

Approach notes

Drive through Arginonta and past Arhi to a right turn over the col towards Palionisos. Continue down as far as a rough track on the left that leads down to an open flat area - this is the place to park for Secret Garden. There are usually scooters here. The Red Wall is reached from the same parking area. To get to Beach and Bay, drive to the end of the tarmac then branch down left and follow a gravel track towards the sea to reach a signed left turn and parking by Taverna Ilias - good for a beer later.Walking Time: 20mins

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Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Best crag we visited all holiday, amazing tufa formations and overhangs. Great food down the road in palionisis at Nikolas taverna as well.
Ian Bell - 19/Sep/14
As the Crag description says, pop in to Nick's Tarverna (The 1st one you pass) He's a great guy with a wealth of knowledge about the area and has topo's for new routes and crags in the area. ps. the Chicken in Beer is Brilliant!
SGD - 21/May/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Secret Garden
2 Parthenon 5c ** 43
3 Pantremenos 5c ** 85
4 Roofianos 6b * 60
5 Kalolimnos 6a+ * 103
6 Nissos Pita 6b+ * 44
7 Achinos 6a+ ** 127
8 Ricci di Mare 6b+ ** 68
9 Tzivaeri 7b * 1
10 Luca e Betty 6c 1
11 Baglamas 7a+ *** 21
12 Sam Suffit 7a *** 45
13 Markoutsi 7b ** 15
14 Magioros 6c+ ** 24
15 Remetzo 6c *** 91
16 Bratsera 6c *** 118
17 Margarita 6c ** 97
18 Dirlanda 7b+ *** 28
19 Syrtaki lesson 7c+ *** 11
20 Savina 7c+ *** 9
21 Chien Jaune 7b+ *** 36
22 Full Job 8a ** 5
23 Half Job 7b+ ** 7
24 Pomponpidoux 7b *** 75
25 Route 69 7b+ *** 35
26 Melodrama 6c+ *** 123
27 Frapogalo 6c *** 225
28 Ballos 7a+ *** 94
29 Adolflahaut 7a+ *** 56
30 Ikariotikos 7b *** 48
31 Ricounet 7a *** 135
32 Crisis 7a *** 122
33 Princesse Marine 7c+ ** 4
34 L'insoutenable légèreté de l'être 7b  
35 Tricky Katie 7a+ ** 29
36 Apocalypse 6c+ * 25
37 The Flood Gates 6c+ ** 15
38 The Flood Gates Extension 8a+ *** 3
39 Stigma 7b ** 39
40 Khaos 8b+ ***  
41 Bourre Mais pas Pleine 7b+ *** 19
42 The Silence of the Abyss 8a+ *** 2
43 Abyssos 8b+ ***  
44 Puffa Puffa Puffa 7c ** 3
45 Dogma 7c+ ** 1
46 Narcissus 8a ** 4
47 Kaly Diva 7c ** 50
48 Play Bazuki 8a ** 2
49 Mayumba 7a+ ** 42
50 Mayumba Extension 7c *  
51 Hyper 6c * 18
Climb name Grade
52 Ymer 6b * 56
53 Extra 6c+ *  
  Red Wall
55 Laius 6a+ ** 16
56 Max 6c *** 12
57 Jocasta 7b ** 13
58 Etsi kai Etsi 6b * 6
59 Isos 6c ** 1
60 Oedipus 6b+ * 2
61 Paola 6a+ ** 11
62 Ratgnagna 6a+ *** 46
63 Luis Attack 6b *** 12
64 Hiro 6b ** 10
65 Tom Pouce 6a+ * 7
66 Il mio amico Luca 6b+  
67 Meister Proper 6a+ *** 25
68 Angis Singing 6b *** 16
69 Ma Tante Dayie 6c *** 26
70 Brad Spit 7a+ *** 8
71 Rha ma Dent 6c+ *** 11
72 Flipper 7a *** 37
73 Os Court 7a+ ** 9
74 Scorpion 6c *** 5
75 Kaly Tyhi 7a *** 2
76 Come Un Cane Senza Balle 7a ** 4
77 Kalo Mou 6b+ ** 16
  Ilias Pillar
79 Fotini 5a * 1
80 Revival 4c * 1
81 Lotte 5a ** 1
82 Ariel 5b ** 1
83 TT 5b * 1
84 Popi 5b * 1
85 Daniela 5c * 1
86 Minijob 5b * 1
87 Eleftheria 5b * 1
  Beach Main
89 Rack Them Up 6b * 1
90 Bad Break 6b+ * 1
91 Go for the Pocket 6a ** 1
92 Pool 5b ** 2
93 Agorcrypha 6a+ * 1
94 Pentatouch 6a *  
95 Ten Plagues 6a *  
96 Due to Roy n Me 6a+ *  
97 Ag Petros & Pavlos 6a+ *  
98 69 Psalmes 6b+ *  
99 Job Centre 5c *  
100 Man Ezra 5c *  
101 Genesis 5c * 11
102 Nomiki 6c * 3
Climb name Grade
103 Canoe 6a ** 8
104 Evagelia 6a ** 8
105 Elena 6a+ ** 9
106 Startschuss 5c ** 18
107 Hanetti 6a ** 8
108 Schwarte 6a ** 13
109 Sharp 6b ** 1
110 Hope 6a *** 22
111 Ilias 6b+ ** 11
112 The Last Gap 6c ** 2
113 Sorry 6a+ ** 9
114 Kalidonis 6a ** 5
115 Pockets 6a+ ** 7
116 Nikolas 6a *** 11
117 Bay 6a ** 12
  Palionisos Bay
119 Sun 6a ** 56
120 Henkelparade 5c *** 79
121 Teardrop 6c ** 13
122 Matze Alive 6c *** 26
123 Wiesel 6b+ ** 30
124 Iltis 6b *** 102
125 Iltis Extension 7a ** 2
126 Baden Mit und Ohne 7a *** 15
127 Novembersonne 7b *** 5
128 67 6b+ *** 38
129 Fingerpull 6a+ *** 42
130 British pubbull 5c *** 54
131 No Spirit, No Station 5c *** 47
132 Corax 5b *** 84
133 Colchium Autumnale 5a ** 72
134 Tak Tak Tak 4c ** 42
135 Rocco 4c * 38
136 Falcon 4c * 11
  Exo Syki
138 Exorbite 5b * 4
139 3 Grosses Chips 5a * 5
140 Toutencanot 5b * 4
141 Pharaon 5b * 3
142 Le Rideau de Fer 5b * 4
143 Les Belles LN 5c ** 7
144 Aqua ca Chevre 5c ** 5
145 Gremlins 5c ** 9
146 Peter Pend 5b ** 10
147 Dimi Trie 5b ** 8
148 Cacachouette 5c ** 3
149 Kalymnoce 5a * 5
150 Lever le Coude 5a * 4
151 Iron Door Saloon 5a * 4
Volunteer to moderate Palionisos
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]