UKC

Climbs 6
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2041m a.s.l
Faces all

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'Fitzroy dreaming' © James Monypenny

Crag features

Aguja Guillaumet is 2580 metres high and is found in the Chalten (Fitz Roy) Massif. Brilliant but long rock, ice and mixed routes on a remote and serious mountain involving some glacier approaches. All routes are climbed with traditionally placed protection. Descent from the summit and from the top of all routes involves multiple abseils. Where abseil stations are in place, any fixed gear should be treated with extreme caution, particularly at the beginning of the season, at which point tat would have been subject to hurricane force winds, freeze/thaw cycles and UV radiation for several months without use/inspection. Though relatively accessible for the area, this is as serious an environment as any.

Approach notes

Approach from the town of El Chalten along the long unpaved road to the bridge over the Rio Electrico. From there, alluvial and forest tracks lead to the refugio at Piedra del Fraile, from where a steep, tracked ascent leads to bivi spots at Piedra Negra. Taxis to the bridge over the Electrico can easily be arranged in town if you want to avoid the long and boring walk.

Approach time from the bridge over the Electrico to Piedra del Fraile ~ 1 hour.

Approach time from Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra ~ 2 hours.

Approach for all facets from Piedra Negra. One hour + for NE and NW ridges, 2 hours + for routes on the east and west faces.

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