Climbs 20
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

A small limestone crag with routes ranging from F4 to F6C which was rebolted in April 2012.

Because of environmental concerns, climbing at this crag is BANNED. Any climbing at this crag is likely to cause problems with CCBC and Natural Resources Wales and could jeopardise climbing at the rest of the ormes.

Approach notes

The crag is situated below the marine drive on the Great Orme shortly after the rest and be thankful cafe and above the old WWII Coastal Artillery.

Because of environmental concerns, climbing at this crag is BANNED. Any climbing at this crag is likely to cause problems with CCBC and Natural Resources Wales and could jeopardise climbing at the rest of the ormes.

Access Banned

These crags are on land designated as SSSI and also as an European Special Area of Conservation . There are some nationally rare and endangered species of plants found on these crags that could easily be damaged by climbing activities. As a consequence both the land manager (Conwy Council)  and Natural Resources Wales have stated that climbing should not be permitted on these crags.

Amongst the plants found here are the nationally scarce and protected species listed here :-

Epipactis atrorubens (Dark red helleborine)

Hieracium cambricum (Welsh Hawkweed)

Sorbus rupicola (Rock whitebeam)

Helianthemum oelandicum (Hoary rockrose)

Climbers are requested to observe this restriction in order to avoid damaging these plants and also to protect access to other venues on the Ormes.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

New, virtually untouched limestone (only bolted in April 2012, I believe) and some tricky roof-type problems to overcome. I believe the phrase is: "a sequence of connected bouldering problems" :)
useful - 18/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-hand Section
2 IVY Wall 6c 8
3 RA 6a+ * 29
4 Family Tri
-
5c 25
5 Calon Lan
-
5a 25
6 Ard 1-der
-
6b 13
  Middle Section
8 Simpl-city 6a+ 26
Climb name Grade
9 Jug City
-
5c 35
10 Surprise 4a 21
  Right-hand Section
12 Mi Fa Solar 6a+ 28
13 Sun of a Gun 6a+ 29
14 Orme Soleil
-
6b 13
15 Little Snatch
-
6c 9
16 Husky 6a+ 12
Climb name Grade
17 Monkey in Space 6b+ 5
18 Woffle
-
6c 7
19 West Shore Guns
-
6b 9
20 Turtle in Charge
-
6b+ 6
21 The Young Ones
-
6a 28
22 Mothering Sunday
-
5a 30
23 Sunday Girl
-
4a 26

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