Climbs 34
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces NE

View Stats

Stratosfear 3rd Pitch © RAB623

Crag features

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. The crag takes little time to dry after rain but can suffer from the dreaded coastal dampness. It's shelterd location can be both a hindrance as well as a godsend. Low humidity and winds from a West to Northerly direction generally give the best conditions. Some of the holds can feel a bit dirty but this only adds to the adventure. One of the best crags on the coast. 

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b),
Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Approach notes

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil from the stakes at the top.

Access Advice

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil.

As of 26th May 2018 Fulmer found sat on nest on first pitch of Cloisters (traverse ledge). Fulmer chicks on Death Cap 26/07/18 , best avoid route until fledged

Guidebooks

2nd June 2018. 2x nesting Fulmars up cloisters and one on ledge just down from 2nd belay of Death Cap
AliBaxter - 04/Jun/18
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Batty Bat
-
HVS 5a 6
2 Hissing Sid
-
HVS 5a * 6
3 Earnsheugh Ridge
-
E1 5a ** 7
4 The Lost World
-
HVS 5a * 3
5 Mysterious Journey
-
E1 5b * 4
6 Tyrannosaurus Wrecks
-
E4 6a * 4
7 Ichthyosaurus
-
E5 6a * 2
8 Death Rattle Roofs E4 6a ** 11
9 Cthulu
-
E5 6a * 5
10 Grim Spectre
-
E6 6b *  
11 Thugosaurus E5 6a *** 11
12 Thugosaurus Direct E5 6a ** 4
Climb name Grade
13 Prehistoric Monster E5 6a *** 33
14 Grimly Fiendish
-
E4 6a * 7
15 Grimly Fiendish Direct E5 6a ** 3
16 Death Cap
-
E1 5a *** 130
17 Death-Fear E1 5b *** 6
18 Necromancer E5 6a *** 28
19 Weird Sister E3 5c ** 24
20 Cruel Mistress E5 6b ** 1
21 Pterodactyl
-
E2 5b *** 78
22 Bats' Belfry
-
E2 5c *** 64
23 Blinkered Bat
-
E3 5c *  
24 Cloisters VS 4c ** 20
Climb name Grade
25 Cloisters Direct Start
-
HVS 5a 5
26 Whispers and Moans
-
E2 5b 2
27 Cloisters Right-Hand
-
VS 4c * 3
28 Bugs' Boogie
-
E2 5b * 2
29 Buggeroo
-
E2 6a *  
30 Ugly Bugs Ball
-
VS 4c ** 39
31 Rattus Norvegicus
-
HVS 5a  
32 Thunderbolt Crack HS 2
33 The Descent Route VD 1
34 Stratosfear E2 5c ** 29

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S