Climbs 33
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces E

Stratosfear 3rd Pitch © RAB623

Crag features

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. Sheltered, but tends to weep.

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b),
Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Approach notes

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil.

Restricted Access

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil.

As of 31/05/17 nesting Fulmers found at base of Death Cap, and on Cloisters traverse. 

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Batty Bat
-
HVS 5a 4
2 Hissing Sid
-
HVS 5a * 4
3 Earnsheugh Ridge
-
E1 5a ** 7
4 The Lost World
-
HVS 5a * 1
5 Mysterious Journey
-
E1 5b * 4
6 Tyrannosaurus Wrecks
-
E4 6a * 4
7 Ichthyosaurus
-
E5 6a * 2
8 Death Rattle Roofs E4 6a ** 11
9 Cthulu
-
E5 6a * 5
10 Grim Spectre
-
E6 6b *  
11 Thugosaurus
-
E5 6a *** 6
12 Thugosaurus Direct
-
E5 6a ** 3
13 Prehistoric Monster E5 6a *** 33
14 Grimly Fiendish
-
E4 6a * 7
15 Grimly Fiendish Direct E5 6a ** 3
16 Death Cap
-
E1 5a *** 133
17 Necromancer E5 6a *** 26
18 Weird Sister E3 5c ** 22
19 Cruel Mistress E5 6b ** 1
20 Pterodactyl
-
E2 5b *** 71
21 Bats' Belfry
-
E2 5c *** 59
22 Blinkered Bat
-
E3 5c *  
23 Cloisters VS 4c ** 20
24 Cloisters Direct Start
-
HVS 5a 5
25 Whispers and Moans
-
E2 5b 2
26 Cloisters Right-Hand
-
VS 4c * 3
27 Bugs' Boogie
-
E2 5b * 2
28 Buggeroo
-
E2 6a *  
29 Ugly Bugs Ball
-
VS 4c ** 29
30 Rattus Norvegicus
-
HVS 5a  
31 Thunderbolt Crack HS 2
32 The Descent Route VD 1
33 Stratosfear E2 5c ** 29

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