Climbs 3
Rocktype Granite

retrieving gear © steve2006

Crag features

It is over 10minutes walk from the St Martin's Higher Town Quay; about 250meters north of Perpitch Beach/Brandy Point, just follow the coastal path towards the Daymark, in the far corner of the next bay very near Mullet Pool. I was drawn to the area from this picture of a climb called Fantasia(5c/E2) on Mark Collins web page also mentioned in Climbers Club West Cornwall guide.

This area is rarely climbed and should not be attempted if any birds are nesting. Please be considerate of plant life, no gardening. Most sea cliff hand and foot holds are clean but occasionally you will find lichen at inconvenient times, normally when exiting the climb. I recommend one quick abseil to brush the small granite cubes(sand!) that are lying on ledges and the exits. The abseil will also allow you to check for any hollow sounding or loose rocks . It is better to be safe than sorry while on this rarely climbed holiday island.

Note: I doubt I am the first person to climb on this face but I found these two obvious lines(A Scilly Chicken Wing and Chim Chim Cher-Ee). So, If they are already documented I think everyone would welcome their real names and grades.

Approach notes

This area is rarely climbed and should not be attempted if any birds are nesting. Unsure if there are restrictions but I guess it is best not to climb in the early summer

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Fantasia E2 5c ** 1
2 A Scilly Chicken Wing VS 5a 1
3 Chim Chim Cher-Ee HS 4b 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer steve2006