Climbs 7
Rocktype UNKNOWN

Faces W

Crag features

The crag consists of three separate faces: the main one, and biggest, is capped by a band of overhangs. It can be accessed from the gearing up ledges by scrambling across the slippery slab. A number of huge boulders lie below the face and give access to the LHS face (facing in) which has a system of ledges running along its base above the high water mark. The RHS, below the gearing up ledges, holds one shorter and less serious route however the entire place has an air of remoteness and adventure about it. The usual caveats about sea-cliff climbing, waves and tides apply.

 

There are a pair of kestrels nesting in the big hole at the top of Slugs on Jugs. The kestrels were not in residence on 26th March 2017 but both were observed on 16th April 2017.

Approach notes

Park at Trevalga Parish Hall. Follow the coast path. Climb over the wall. Descend grassy slopes and ledges to the LHS  of the crag (facing out) until good gearing up ledges are reached. From here a good view of all of the routes can be appreciated.

Alternatively, park as for Rocky Valley and approach along the coast path passing the campsite on your right. Descend grassy slopes to the gearing up ledges.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Chossy Chimney VS 4a  
2 Slugs on Jugs E1 5a 1
3 The Urge
-
XS 5c ***  
4 Baffler
-
XS 5c *  
5 Molly's 29-Hour Party
-
S 4a 1
6 Deep Draught VS 4c 1
7 Hudson Bay Trading Co. E1 5a * 1

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