Altitude 571m a.s.l
Aiguille de Buis © Rog Wilko
This is a recently developed crag in an elevated position overlooking the town of Buis les Baronnies. As a result, you may find some flakey holds, but at least the rock isn't polished. Mainly multi-pitch routes. The crag is south-facing and gives shelter from the mistral. There are a few harder offerings but most of the routes are in the lower to middle grades. Mostly the lower pitches are easier, so climbers of more modest abilities have plenty to go at.
Despite most of the routes being put up by the same team, the grading is very inconsistent.
A few of the routes have names on the rock, and they are listed from left to right.
Don't be put off by the lack of star ratings, as the new guidebook doesn't use them. They just highlight a handful of routes with a red heart symbol.
There is a pleasant 20 - 30 min uphill walk-in.
By car from Buis take the D546 as for Ubrieux. About 100m after crossing the River Ouveze, take a sharp left back to the river and follow it for a few hundred metres to park near the recycling bins. Here, there is a new sign about climbing on the Aiguille, and MOST of the route up to it is now well-signed with posts. However, this doesn't make this description superfluous! Take the road (no entry sign) back up to the D546 and turn left for a few metres. Where a small stream runs under the road take the second of two roads on the right. When this reaches a T-junction turn left steeply uphill (4x4track). At the second hairpin follow a footpath (Sentier botanique) which has a steep sided watercourse on its right.
The path climbs through pleasant pine forest. After a few minor twists and turns you will reach a significant left hairpin bend followed after some distance by another to the right. This bend has a notice about wild boar. About 150 m after the second hairpin there is a small cairn on the left marking the path to the crag which cuts back between several cottage-sized boulders (visible from main path). Soon a small steep crag appears above you on your right. Continue till a steep bedding plane slope with cable assistance leads up to the foot of the crag.
By foot from Buis: follow the D546 over the river and pass the road signed Le Poet en Percip . Continue till the small stream under the road, and follow directions as above.
|This is a lovely spot to climb, well worth the walk up, which follows a pleasant path. The outlook is splendid and the southerly aspect makes it a good place when the mistral is blowing. Rock could be better in places but is generally OK and not polished.
Grading here is eccentric to put it mildly. La Comete for instance is given 4+ but is more like 5+ and its neighbour Cassiopee is similar. First pitch of La Brouette d'Espace is given 4c but is more like 3c. And there are more examples, so expect surprises, if that isn't too silly.|
Rog Wilko - 17/Mar/13
|1||La Maillon Dormeur||5a||7|
|4||Et a L'Oeil||
|7||Secret de Grand-Mere||6a||1|
|9||La Brouette de L'Espace||5c||2|
|13||Thalasso Spirit||6a+ *||3|
|14||Ma P'tite FrouFroune||5c||2|
|17||La Fesse Gauche||5c||4|
|18||La Raie des Fesses||
|19||La Fesse Droite||6b+|
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