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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 243
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kalydna © Morgan Woods

Crag features

The section of rock to the right of Panorama is a fine wide wall that runs all the way out to the white triangular wall of Zeus, beyond the open gully to the right of Poets. Although the rock formations are not quite as spectacular as the Grande Grotta, these walls have some brilliant and varied climbing and would be the showpiece walls in many a climbing area. The grade spread is good, with Coeur d'Armeos and Poets having the most to offer in the easier grades. The area is easily reached from the accommodation in Masouri. The cliffs are generally busy, though some sections see less traffic than others, particularly those towards Panorama - with harder routes and a longer walk. 

Approach notes

Stankill and Ivory Tower are best approached from the Grande Grotta. Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue. The track runs up to a gate, then a prominent olive tree, before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the Grande Grotta.

For the other crags, use the 'Poets' Approach' - except for Kalydna which is about halfway between the two approaches. For Poets, the path starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apartments and runs up the slope rightwards to reach a fence. Once above this, trend diagonally left across the hillside (cairns and paint) to reach various poor tracks that traverse the hillside - scramble up to your chosen buttress. For Poets and Zeus, keep heading right into the open gully and break out right or left at the top of this.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Kalymnos (2015)

Out of print:
Kalymnos (2010)
Hi All, climbed at Zeus on April 12th 2013 and I pulled a very large piece of rock off Kallisto at the first big hole after the pocketed crux. You can still move left onto solid jugs but take care at both the large holes on this route as the "veneer" covering each hole is thin. Luckily the piece shattered on the face as it fell and my warning allowed my belayer to move to his right out of the way.
Giles Davis - 14/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stankill
2 Titan 6a+ * 13
3 Duo 6a+ * 14
4 Stankill 6a+ ** 30
5 String 4a * 25
6 Krackholy 7c **  
7 Lyrix 7b *** 4
8 Zack 6c+ ** 12
9 Plagnolis 6c+ ** 9
10 Tonic 6c+ * 16
11 Noynoy 6b *** 34
12 Sibylle 5a ** 59
13 Voiture Balai 4c 5
14 Hugox 5c ** 118
15 Paulix 5c *** 94
16 Bobodo 6a ** 112
17 Gunpowder Plot 6b+ ** 26
18 Gunpowder Plot Extension 6c *** 7
19 Paparazzi 6c * 9
20 Zaros 6b ** 45
21 Zaros Extension 6b ** 6
22 Stelios 6a+ *** 93
23 Justice is its Own Reward 6b+ ** 42
24 Fainéantdertal 8a+ **  
25 La Flemme Olympic 7b+ **  
26 Perskindol 6b *** 225
27 Aypa 6c *** 119
  Ivory Tower
29 Schnügu 6b ** 40
30 Am Abgrung 6a+ * 25
31 Attiki 6a+ ** 40
32 Happiness 6c ** 75
33 Happiness Extension 7b+ *** 2
34 Bloc Volant 6a+ ** 98
35 Sidewinder 6c+ *** 50
36 Sunrise 7a ** 50
37 Sunrise Extension 7c+ ***  
38 Café 7a+ ** 14
39 Café Extension 7c+ ***  
40 Anaphylactic Shock 7c+ *** 5
41 Lactic Shock 7c *** 19
42 The Craic 7b+ *** 63
43 Poker Face 5b *** 68
44 Arthur 5c * 44
45 Deletime 5c ** 48
46 The Silent Way 7c+ ***  
47 Dream Line 7b ** 8
48 Dream Line Extension 7c ***  
49 Ivory Tower 8a *** 1
50 Ultimo Bucco 6b+ ** 8
51 Fuga da Guy 7a * 1
  Kalydna
53 Cuccioco 5a ** 4
54 Mammolo 5c ** 4
55 Eolo 5a ** 2
56 Dotto 5a ** 1
57 Brontolo 5b *** 5
58 Pisolo 6a *** 5
59 Gongolo 6b *** 3
60 Radom 6b *** 20
61 Hype 7b *** 4
62 Spark 6b * 16
63 Hot Fuel 7a ** 7
64 Blevita 6b+ * 23
65 Avra 6a * 41
66 Mami au Grigri 6c ** 23
67 Miss Latex 6b+ ** 42
68 Bigboo 7a ** 29
69 Mitra 7c * 2
70 Fragment 6c * 3
71 Yebus 6c+ *** 20
72 Fran-Fran 7b+ *** 11
73 Tassir 7a+ *** 66
74 Tassir Extension 7b+ *** 6
75 Calida 6c+ *** 43
76 Sickle 7a+ *** 89
77 Sickle Extension 7b *** 8
78 Uschana 6c ** 87
79 Uschana Extension 7b+ *** 2
80 Golden Oriole 6b+ ** 73
81 Aurora (Part 1) 7b *** 43
82 Aurora 7c+ ** 6
  Right Cave
84 Theodora 6c+ *** 73
85 KalyNikhla 6b+ *** 263
Climb name Grade
86 KalyNikhla Extension 7b *** 32
87 Ixion 7a *** 202
88 Fiction 7a * 19
89 To Have & Not to Be 7c+ *** 1
90 Unique 7a+ *** 3
91 Project Unique
-
Project ***  
92 Extra 6b ** 182
93 Nickel 7a+ *** 150
94 Late Evening Light 6a+ ** 118
95 The Mole that Cram Full 8a+ ***  
96 Triste Saccage 8c ***  
97 Fake Friends 8b+ ***  
98 Trous Dans L'Air 8b ***  
99 L'Air d'un Trou 8b **  
100 J'ai du Temps Dons J'ai de l'Argent 7b+ **  
101 Keep Going 8b *** 1
102 Life Style 7b ** 2
103 Kaly Câlins 6c *** 12
104 Mamy Nova 6c ** 30
105 Spacy 7a+ *  
106 Dart 6b ** 12
  Iannis
108 Fence Guest 6b+ * 46
109 Ypakoe 6c ** 35
110 Kalotina 6a * 77
111 Le Regne de Saturne 7a ** 7
112 Eclat de Soleil 7a+ ** 19
113 Petranta 7a+ ** 34
114 O Draconian Devil 8b *** 5
115 La Looz 8a *** 1
116 Sevasti 7b *** 135
117 Themelina 7b+ *** 77
118 Super Themelina 7c+ *** 13
119 Racomelo 8b *** 6
120 Tufa King Pumped 7b+ *** 111
121 Attitude 7a *** 152
122 Attitude Extension 8a *** 1
123 Adolf in the Bay 6c+ *** 169
124 Adolf in the Bay Extension 7c+ *** 2
125 To Manna 7c ** 6
126 To Manna Extension 8a **  
127 Verikoko Left-hand 7b *** 4
128 Verikoko 7a *** 130
129 Sens Unique 7a *** 122
130 Zagori 6c *** 124
131 Kalyne 6b *** 196
132 Yaka 6b+ ** 92
133 La Mer et le Vent * 6c+ ** 2
  Coeur d'Arméos
135 Un Culte / Pomel 6a+ ** 34
136 Mario Net / Gast 6a ** 54
137 Bar Bar / Boubie 6a+ *** 51
138 Lord Dur / Dikomel 6a ** 34
139 Sadi Kwa / Fekomel 6a+ ** 32
140 Kiss Bulle / Epifermla 5b ** 44
141 Hip, hip, hip / P'tit Pwason 4c * 47
142 Houra / P'tit Waso 5a * 45
143 Lara Clette / Acouna Matata 5b ** 42
144 Lara Clette Extension 6a ** 5
145 Pommel / Iamas Glou.Glou 6a ** 37
146 Pommel Extension 6b ** 4
147 Scrogneugneu 6c ** 5
148 Snouf Left-hand 6c ** 7
149 Snouf Right-hand 6b ** 1
150 Reste Haut du Cœur 6b+ *** 37
151 Boubou 6b *** 66
152 Y'a Rien au Dessus 6b+ *** 23
153 Y'a Rien au Dessus Right 6b+ *** 1
154 Patrick + Bambou 6a+ ** 16
155 Patrick + Bambou Extension 7a+ * 1
156 Extra tes Restes 6c *** 8
157 Dream Thym 6b+ ** 4
158 Mytos 6b * 12
159 Propolis 6a * 51
160 A Tes Souhaits 6a ** 46
161 L'été Indien 6a+ *** 42
162 Senza Freni 6b * 23
  Poets
164 Minos 7a *** 9
165 Mabrouk / Azul 6c ** 7
166 Kavafis 6b *** 28
167 Pepe Gilles (P1) 6b * 13
168 Pepe Gilles 6c *** 5
169 Poetic Licence / Azul (P1) 6b+ * 6
170 Azul 6c ** 10
Climb name Grade
171 Bon Voyage (P1) 6b+ ** 6
172 Bon Voyage 6b *** 5
173 Nathan Patro 6c *** 5
174 Keyra (P1) 6b+ *** 13
175 Keyra 7b *** 2
176 Wala Wala / Damokles 6a+ *** 46
177 The Hideaway 7c+ *** 1
178 Harry Hole (pitch 1) 6b *** 6
179 Harry Hole 7b+ *** 5
180 Happy Wife 6c *** 14
181 Rolling Stone 7a+ *** 11
182 Ça Bruine Sec 7c *** 2
183 Scala Dream 6c+ *** 1
184 Captain Fantastic 7c+ ***  
185 Spaceboy 6c+ ***  
186 Charles Bukowski 6c+ * 43
187 Delicatessen 6c *** 70
188 Iris 6b+ *** 116
189 Saxonia 6a ** 307
190 Solaris
-
6a+ ** 9
191 The Homeric Verses 6a+ ** 169
192 Quando Tramonta il Sol 6a ** 312
193 Karoubalo 6b ** 87
194 Dryads 6b ** 191
195 Mustass 5c *** 452
196 Styx 6a+ *** 344
197 Oreads 6b ** 207
198 Palamas 6c *** 31
199 Solomos 6c+ *** 41
200 Reins Beaux 6c+ *** 26
201 O' Brothers 6b+ *** 224
202 Omero 7a ** 179
203 Sapfo 6a+ ** 341
204 Pindaros 5a * 320
205 Alfa 5b * 123
206 Alceo 6c ** 66
207 Licimnio 6c ** 74
208 Ella L'a 7a+ *** 25
209 Alcman 6c *** 83
210 Anacreonte 6a *** 463
211 Archiloque 6c+ *** 22
212 Ibria 6c ** 149
213 Hipponax 7a *** 64
214 Ione 7a ** 31
215 Poets Corner 5c ** 298
216 Poets Corner Extension 6b+ * 8
  Poets Right
218 Ouzo 6a ** 133
219 Mpyra 6b *** 68
220 Metaxas 6a+ ** 165
221 M.A.O. 6a ** 215
222 Il Gino 5b ** 67
223 Kalimera 6b * 58
224 Kalispera 6c * 47
225 Disobbedisco 6c+ ** 12
226 Alsace 6b+ ** 17
227 E'Tardi 6a+ * 29
  White Shark
229 The Wave 7a+ ** 12
230 Agopuntura 7b+ *  
  Zeus
232 Mad Dad 6c+ ** 37
233 Callisto 6c+ *** 76
234 Rocklandis 7b ** 23
235 Ganymede 6b *** 62
236 Isabel 6c * 16
237 Blonde, James Blonde 6c ** 78
238 Blonde 7c *** 10
239 La Mouette Généreuse 6b ** 40
240 Kalyfornication 6b+ * 70
241 Pipe Cleaner 7a+ *** 26
242 Wild Sport 7c+ *** 2
243 Dura Lex 7b ** 8
244 Kalamity Jane. 7a+ ** 4
245 Demeter 4b ** 24
246 Demeter Extension 5c * 1
247 Hephaistos 6c * 15
  Meltemi
249 Siroco
-
6c  
250 Ob la Di 6a+ ** 2
251 Ob la Da 6a+ *** 2
252 Cent Plomb 7a *** 1
253 Pounenti 6b+ *** 1
254 Thermopyla
-
6b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Musgrove