Climbs 240
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Faces NW

View Stats

Kalydna © Morgan Woods

Crag features

The section of rock to the right of Panorama is a fine wide wall that runs all the way out to the white triangular wall of Zeus, beyond the open gully to the right of Poets. Although the rock formations are not quite as spectacular as the Grande Grotta, these walls have some brilliant and varied climbing and would be the showpiece walls in many a climbing area. The grade spread is good, with Coeur d'Armeos and Poets having the most to offer in the easier grades. The area is easily reached from the accommodation in Masouri. The cliffs are generally busy, though some sections see less traffic than others, particularly those towards Panorama - with harder routes and a longer walk. 

Approach notes

Stankill and Ivory Tower are best approached from the Grande Grotta. Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue. The track runs up to a gate, then a prominent olive tree, before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the Grande Grotta.

For the other crags, use the 'Poets' Approach' - except for Kalydna which is about halfway between the two approaches. For Poets, the path starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apartments and runs up the slope rightwards to reach a fence. Once above this, trend diagonally left across the hillside (cairns and paint) to reach various poor tracks that traverse the hillside - scramble up to your chosen buttress. For Poets and Zeus, keep heading right into the open gully and break out right or left at the top of this.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Kalymnos (2015)

Out of print:
Kalymnos (2010)
Hi All, climbed at Zeus on April 12th 2013 and I pulled a very large piece of rock off Kallisto at the first big hole after the pocketed crux. You can still move left onto solid jugs but take care at both the large holes on this route as the "veneer" covering each hole is thin. Luckily the piece shattered on the face as it fell and my warning allowed my belayer to move to his right out of the way.
Giles Davis - 14/Apr/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stankill
2 Titan 6a+ * 13
3 Duo 6a+ * 14
4 Stankill 6a+ ** 30
5 String 4a * 25
6 Krackholy 7c **  
7 Lyrix 7b *** 4
8 Zack 6c+ ** 12
9 Plagnolis 6c+ ** 9
10 Tonic 6c+ * 15
11 Noynoy 6b *** 34
12 Sibylle 5a ** 58
13 Voiture Balai 4c 5
14 Hugox 5c ** 115
15 Paulix 5c *** 90
16 Bobodo 6a ** 111
17 Gunpowder Plot 6b+ ** 26
18 Gunpowder Plot Extension 6c *** 7
19 Paparazzi 6c * 9
20 Zaros 6b ** 44
21 Zaros Extension 6b ** 6
22 Stelios 6a+ *** 92
23 Justice is its Own Reward 6b+ ** 41
24 Fainéantdertal 8a+ **  
25 La Flemme Olympic 7b+ **  
26 Perskindol 6b *** 213
27 Aypa 6c *** 113
  Ivory Tower
29 Schnügu 6b ** 39
30 Am Abgrung 6a+ * 25
31 Attiki 6a+ ** 40
32 Happiness 6c ** 73
33 Happiness Extension 7b+ *** 2
34 Bloc Volant 6a+ ** 96
35 Sidewinder 6c+ *** 49
36 Sunrise 7a ** 43
37 Sunrise Extension 7c+ ***  
38 Café 7a+ ** 11
39 Café Extension 7c+ ***  
40 Anaphylactic Shock 7c+ *** 4
41 Lactic Shock 7c *** 17
42 The Craic 7b+ *** 58
43 Poker Face 5b *** 68
44 Arthur 5c * 44
45 Deletime 5c ** 47
46 The Silent Way 7c+ ***  
47 Dream Line 7b ** 7
48 Dream Line Extension 7c ***  
49 Ivory Tower 8a *** 1
50 Ultimo Bucco 6b+ ** 7
51 Fuga da Guy 7a * 1
  Kalydna
53 Eolo 5a ** 1
54 Cuccioco 5a ** 3
55 Mammolo 5c ** 3
56 Brontolo 5b 4
57 Pisolo 6a * 4
58 Gongolo 6b ** 3
59 Radom 6b *** 19
60 Hype 7b *** 4
61 Spark 6b * 16
62 Hot Fuel 7a ** 7
63 Blevita 6b+ * 22
64 Avra 6a * 41
65 Mami au Grigri 6c ** 21
66 Miss Latex 6b+ ** 40
67 Bigboo 7a ** 26
68 Mitra 7c * 2
69 Fragment 6c * 3
70 Yebus 6c+ *** 20
71 Fran-Fran 7b+ *** 10
72 Tassir 7a+ *** 55
73 Tassir Extension 7b+ *** 6
74 Calida 6c+ *** 43
75 Sickle 7a+ *** 82
76 Sickle Extension 7b *** 8
77 Uschana 6c ** 81
78 Uschana Extension 7b+ *** 2
79 Golden Oriole 6b+ ** 71
80 Aurora (Part 1) 7b *** 42
81 Aurora 7c+ ** 6
  Right Cave
83 Theodora 6c+ *** 71
84 KalyNikhla 6b+ *** 260
Climb name Grade
85 KalyNikhla Extension 7b *** 32
86 Ixion 7a *** 189
87 Fraction 7a * 14
88 To Have & Not to Be 7c+ *** 1
89 Unique 7a+ *** 3
90 Project Unique
-
Project ***  
91 Extra 6b ** 179
92 Nickel 7a+ *** 140
93 Late Evening Light 6a+ ** 116
94 The Mole that Cram Full 8a+ ***  
95 Triste Saccage 8c ***  
96 Fake Friends 8b+ ***  
97 Trous Dans L'Air 8b ***  
98 L'Air d'un Trou 8b **  
99 J'ai du Temps Dons J'ai de l'Argent 7b+ **  
100 Keep Going 8b *** 1
101 Life Style 7b ** 2
102 Kaly Câlins 6c *** 11
103 Mamy Nova 6c ** 28
104 Spacy 7a+ *  
105 Dart 6b ** 12
  Iannis
107 Fence Guest 6b+ * 44
108 Ypakoe 6c ** 34
109 Kalotina 6a * 75
110 Le Regne de Saturne 7a ** 7
111 Eclat de Soleil 7a+ ** 9
112 Petranta 7a+ ** 34
113 O Draconian Devil 8b *** 5
114 Sevasti 7b *** 130
115 Themelina 7b+ *** 76
116 Super Themelina 7c+ *** 13
117 Racomelo 8b *** 6
118 Tufa King Pumped 7b+ *** 109
119 Attitude 7a *** 149
120 Attitude Extension 8a *** 1
121 Adolf in the Bay 6c+ *** 165
122 Adolf in the Bay Extension 7c+ *** 2
123 To Manna 7c ** 5
124 To Manna Extension 8a **  
125 Verikoko Left-hand 7b *** 2
126 Verikoko 7a *** 116
127 Sens Unique 7a *** 112
128 Zagori 6c *** 121
129 Kalyne 6b *** 189
130 Yaka 6b+ ** 89
  Coeur d'Arméos
132 Un Culte / Pomel 6a+ ** 34
133 Mario Net / Gast 6a ** 47
134 Bar Bar / Boubie 6a+ *** 91
135 Lord Dur / Dikomel 6a ** 27
136 Sadi Kwa / Fekomel 6a+ ** 30
137 Kiss Bulle / Epifermla 5b ** 72
138 Hip, hip, hip / P'tit Pwason 4c * 44
139 Houra / P'tit Waso 5a * 44
140 Lara Clette / Acouna Matata 5b ** 41
141 Lara Clette Extension 6a ** 5
142 Pommel / Iamas Glou.Glou 6a ** 36
143 Pommel Extension 6b ** 4
144 Scrogneugneu 6c ** 5
145 Snouf Left-hand 6c ** 6
146 Snouf Right-hand 6b ** 1
147 Reste Haut du Cœur 6b+ *** 34
148 Boubou 6b *** 58
149 Y'a Rien au Dessus 6b+ *** 17
150 Y'a Rien au Dessus Right 6b+ *** 1
151 Patrick + Bambou 6a+ ** 15
152 Patrick + Bambou Extension 7a+ * 1
153 Extra tes Restes 6c *** 6
154 Dream Thym 6b+ ** 3
155 Mytos 6b * 11
156 Propolis 6a * 51
157 A Tes Souhaits 6a ** 45
158 L'été Indien 6a+ *** 37
159 Senza Freni 6b * 17
  Poets
161 Minos 7a *** 7
162 Mabrouk / Azul 6c ** 6
163 Kavafis 6b *** 26
164 Pepe Gilles (P1) 6b * 12
165 Pepe Gilles 6c *** 5
166 Poetic Licence / Azul (P1) 6b+ * 4
167 Azul 6c ** 8
168 Bon Voyage (P1) 6b+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
169 Bon Voyage 6b *** 4
170 Nathan Patro 6c *** 4
171 Keyra (P1) 6b+ *** 10
172 Keyra 7b *** 1
173 Wala Wala / Damokles 6a+ *** 41
174 The Hideaway 7c+ ***  
175 Harry Hole (pitch 1) 6b *** 1
176 Harry Hole 7b+ *** 4
177 Happy Wife 6c *** 11
178 Rolling Stone 7a+ *** 5
179 Ça Bruine Sec 7c ***  
180 Scala Dream 6c+ *** 1
181 Captain Fantastic 7c+ ***  
182 Spaceboy 6c+ ***  
183 Charles Bukowski 6c+ * 43
184 Delicatessen 6c *** 66
185 Iris 6b+ *** 114
186 Saxonia 6a ** 302
187 Solaris
-
6a+ ** 9
188 The Homeric Verses 6a+ ** 164
189 Quando Tramonta il Sol 6a ** 307
190 Karoubalo 6b ** 82
191 Dryads 6b ** 187
192 Mustass 5c *** 446
193 Styx 6a+ *** 333
194 Oreads 6b ** 203
195 Palamas 6c *** 29
196 Solomos 6c+ *** 40
197 Reins Beaux 6c+ *** 25
198 O' Brothers 6b+ *** 219
199 Omero 7a ** 176
200 Sapfo 6a+ ** 339
201 Pindaros 5a * 322
202 Alfa 5b * 126
203 Alceo 6c ** 65
204 Licimnio 6c ** 71
205 Ella L'a 7a+ *** 24
206 Alcman 6c *** 82
207 Anacreonte 6a *** 458
208 Archiloque 6c+ *** 22
209 Ibria 6c ** 149
210 Hipponax 7a *** 57
211 Ione 7a ** 29
212 Poets Corner 5c ** 297
213 Poets Corner Extension 6b+ * 7
  Poets Right
215 Ouzo 6a ** 131
216 Mpyra 6b *** 65
217 Metaxas 6a+ ** 162
218 M.A.O. 6a ** 213
219 Il Gino 5b ** 66
220 Kalimera 6b * 58
221 Kalispera 6c * 47
222 Disobbedisco 6c+ ** 12
223 Alsace 6b+ ** 16
224 E'Tardi 6a+ * 30
  White Shark
226 The Wave 7a+ ** 12
227 Agopuntura 7b+ *  
  Zeus
229 Mad Dad 6c+ ** 35
230 Callisto 6c+ *** 73
231 Rocklandis 7b ** 22
232 Ganymede 6b *** 61
233 Isabel 6c * 16
234 Blonde, James Blonde 6c ** 75
235 Blonde 7c *** 9
236 La Mouette Généreuse 6b ** 39
237 Kalyfornication 6b+ * 69
238 Pipe Cleaner 7a+ *** 25
239 Wild Sport 7c+ *** 1
240 Dura Lex 7b ** 8
241 Kalamity Jane. 7a+ ** 4
242 Demeter 4b ** 24
243 Demeter Extension 5c * 1
244 Hephaistos 6c * 15
  Meltemi
246 Siroco
-
6c  
247 Ob la Di 6a+ ** 2
248 Ob la Da 6a+ *** 2
249 Cent Plomb 7a *** 1
250 Pounenti 6b+ *** 1
251 Thermopyla
-
6b+  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Musgrove