Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces all
Crag features
The main crag has mostly been used for dry-tooling but two lines have been bolted and a smaller West-facing buttress has also been cleaned for bouldering (more info here: https://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Ravelston). PLEASE DO NOT use it for dry-tooling. Although the quarry's sandstone is of mostly good quality, dry-tooling will always cause irreversible damage to the rock. The sustainability of tooling sandstone is regularly questioned. Routes shown and grades are given for things that have been top-roped.
Approach notes
Cross Ravelston Park and enter the woods on the path passed the play-park. Continue up this path for 20(ish) metres and then go straight (possibly battling the undergrowth) where it bends left into the quarry itself.
Access Advice
This crag lies within the Ravelston Local Nature Reserve. Activity has been low-level enough so as not to attract attention, so it is unclear what level of climbing and bolting is acceptable. Taking this into account, please be extra respectful and relatively discrete at this crag.
| I have cleaned the small west facing buttress - it is top quality compact rock, very suitable for bouldering but too short for route. It would be a real shame to damage the beautiful small crimps with drytooling. I agree with Jahnung anyway, why would one practice drytooling on Sandstone is beyond me. Maragmhòraix - 06/Feb/25 |
|
| Andy (whom I do not know) seems to have bolted a line. Not sure if he intends this to be a sport or a drytooling route though, anyone know? CameronDuff14 - 06/Jan/23 |
|
| What are peoples thoughts on developing this quarry as a sport crag? Not sure if i'm missing something here, but I can't understand drytooling on sandstone, its such a delicate rock type that there's just no way it can be sustainable - after a quick look at the crag its obvious where holds have been smacked off. The crag looks like it holds potential for some bolted routes though, and I think after some cleaning this place could provide some established routes? jahnug - 07/Aug/21 |
|
| Has anyone checked with the local wildlife group/Edinburgh council about this crag? Robh101 - 21/Nov/12 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Maragmhòraix and CameronDuff14