Climbs 151
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Having an audience © PhilE

Crag features

Best described as 'adventure sport climbing', with many routes requiring the leader to top out and be seconded to retrieve quickdraws. Well bolted.

More details at http://www.freewebs.com/arbroathclimbing/index.htm

Approach notes

No problems - ample parking and a tarred path approach. Some of the walls are tidal - check the guidebook for details.

I mistakenly left two draws (one trad, one extendable draw) on the main sector cartoon. If anyone finds these, and can return them, I would be very grateful!
JuddTravers - 19/Dec/16
Lovely place to climb and very well bolted including anchors at the top. Rock is sound and holds are good but well hidden (think BennyBeg but not as bad).
CyberTaff - 23/Jul/15
The SMC guidebook lists a number of numbered posts on the cliff path, these are no longer in the same place, adding to much confusion finding the routes.
lemon - 04/Oct/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  THE RUT
2 Low Traverse f6C 6b *** 2
3 Middle Traverse f4+ 5b * 2
4 High Traverse f3 4b * 3
5 Stag Night 5c 54
6 Strut Yer Stuff 6b 27
7 Burning with Anxiety 6b+ 19
8 Road Rage 6a+ * 35
9 Flaked Out 5a ** 61
10 Stuck in a Rut 6a 28
11 The Shelf f4 5b * 1
  THE DIVING BOARD
13 In at the Deep End 7a **  
14 Take the Plunge 6b+ * 1
  lower Platform
16 In with the In Crowd 6c 1
  THE PLATFORM
18 Smokies
-
6b+ * 8
19 Ride 'em Cowboy
-
6b+ ** 20
20 Waves of Emotion
-
6b * 24
21 Parsons Nose
-
6b+ * 11
22 Caught Red-Handed
-
6c ** 12
23 Impaled on the Horns of Indecision 6c+ * 3
24 Cast Adrift on the Ocean of Uncertainty 7a+ ** 4
25 At the Crossroads of Destiny and Desire
-
7a ** 4
26 Foundering on the Rocks of Obsession 7a * 4
27 Seaside Special
-
5a 34
28 Original Route
-
3 * 11
29 Original Route Direct Start
-
5c * 23
30 Climbers Wear Platforms
-
6b * 14
31 Towing the Line 6a * 10
32 Rubbin salt into the wound 6b+ ** 6
  The Backstage
34 Swimming against the Tide of Tradition 6c+ ** 1
35 Out of the Red and into the Black. At last! 7a * 1
  THE STAGE
37 First Night Nerves 6c  
38 Shore Beats Working 6b  
  THE TOWER
40 Wall of Hate 5a 2
41 Meaty Hefts 4a ** 4
42 Declaration of Intent 6a * 4
43 The Krab 6b * 2
44 The Selfish Shellfish 6a 2
  Non-Tidal Wave
46 Wave Escape 3 *  
47 Say Hello but Wave Goodbye 6b+ *  
48 Brain Wave 6b *  
49 On a Different Wavelength 6c  
50 Closed Project Project  
51 Shockwave 7a+  
52 Wave Power 7b+ *  
53 7th Wave 7a **  
  Promontory North Face
55 The Red Lichtie 6a+  
56 Barging into the Presence of God 6b+  
57 Pilgrims Progress 7a *  
  Promontory South Face
59 The Abbey Habit 6a * 4
60 Stitch in Time 6b * 1
61 Buoys of summer 6b+ ** 5
62 E'evil Dead 6c *** 2
63 Flesh E'eter 7a+ **  
64 Project (Closed) Project  
  SECTOR CARTOON
66 Looney Tunes
-
5c 40
67 Fred Flintstone
-
3+ 38
68 Disney Look Too Bad 6a 46
69 Cow And Chicken
-
3+ 56
70 Top Cat
-
4a 55
71 A Grand Day Out
-
4c 71
72 The Wrong Trousers
-
4a 60
73 Pinky and the Brain
-
4a 62
74 62 West Wallaby Street
-
3+ 56
75 The Pearls of Penelope Pitstop
-
6a+ 48
76 Rugrats Revenge
-
5a 42
77 Fantastic Four
-
3 30
  SECTOR PARENTAL GUIDANCE (Left)
79 Silver Surfer
-
4a 13
80 Be Calmed
-
5c 25
81 Parental Guidance
-
6b+ * 19
82 Layin Down the Law 6b+ * 10
83 "O" Zone Slayer 6b+ * 6
84 Pushin the Limpets 7b+ ** 2
  sector parental guidance (right)
86 Grounded 7a+ **  
87 Not for Childrens E'e 6c *  
88 Loose Lips Sink Ships 6a+ 2
  THE STEPPES
90 Steppeladder
-
4a 17
91 Steppes Back in Amazement
-
6b 8
92 Kazakhstani Castaway
-
6b+ 7
93 One Steppe Forward
-
6b 15
94 Two Steppes Back
-
6a+ 21
95 Put Out to Grass
-
6a 29
96 High Stepper
-
6b 17
97 Steppin' Out
-
4c 24
98 Steppe in the Right Direction 6b * 4
  Project Wall
100 Ossian 8a 2
  WARSHIP WALL
102 Dread Knot 6b 5
103 Broad Side 6b+ 3
  Mermaids Kirk
105 Jump 'n' Run 4a * 3
106 Kickstarter 4b 1
107 Diagon Alley * 6b **  
  SECTOR MINI
109 Minitial
-
4a 15
110 Minitiation
-
4a 14
111 Minimal
-
4c 16
112 Minimical
-
6a+ 11
113 Miniquity
-
4c 7
114 Minitiative
-
4c 5
  CONNING TOWER INLET
116 Vast mango in Tardis 6c+ ** 3
117 Mutton Dressed as Clam 7a+ * 2
118 Silence of the Clams 5c *** 20
119 Galley Slave 6c * 1
120 Swindlers List 6a+ *** 14
121 Short Arms, Deep Pockets 6b 3
122 The Peem Machine
-
6c+ ** 2
123 Haarbinger
-
6b+ ** 3
  THE HAVEN
125 Haven Fun
-
6b 4
126 A Close Shave 6c 2
127 Shaven Haven 5a * 4
128 Haven Can't Wait 6a+ 3
129 Don't Bridget Neilson 6b 1
130 Dark Sar-Chasm 5c ** 3
131 Vulgar Display of Power 7b+ ** 2
132 Knockin' on Havens Door 7b ** 7
133 Davids Route 5a * 14
  Bollard Buttress
135 The Grade Escape 5c * 8
136 Sun Seeker 6a+ * 4
  THE GARGOYLE
  THE BATTERY
139 Artillery Arete
-
5c * 4
140 Bringing Out the Big Guns 6b+ ** 1
141 Every Ready Arete
-
7a ** 2
  THE HAUL WALL
143 Heave Ho!
-
5c * 7
144 In Too Deep
-
6a+ ** 11
145 The Jug of Jug Haul 6c ** 1
146 The Siren 6c *** 5
147 Air Raid 7a ** 1
  Grannies Garrett
149 Sweet Dreams are Made of This 7a+ ** 3
150 Satans Serenade 6b+ ** 15
151 Mushroom Treatment 6b ** 22
  The Deils Heid
153 Deil Or No Deil E8 6b ** 1
154 Dickenson's Real Deil E7 6c * 1
155 Deil Me In E5 6a 1
156 Between the Deil and the Deep Blue Sea 6c ** 5
157 The Heidmaster 7a+ ** 2
158 The Deil's Heid 5c *** 80
159 The Frozen Wave
-
f6B+ 1
160 Wave Left Hand
-
f6A+ 1
  The Eyrie
162 Mudda 5c 1
163 Haggis Breakfast 5a 1
164 For the Future of Climbing 2 1
165 Rockstars 3+ 1
166 Sunrise 5c 1
167 Sunset 2+ 1
168 Azzy Spongy 4c  
169 Dangerzone 3+ 1
170 No! D'Oh! Nuts! 4a 1
171 Cornerrama 4a 1
  Sunshine Wall
173 Follow the White Rabbit 6a+  
174 Trust me, I'm an Engineer 5c  
175 Solar Eclipse 5c  
176 Avertical 5b  
177 STAUMC 5b  
178 Midnight Topout 5c  
179 Spring Tide 3+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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