UKC

Climbs 154
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Having an audience © PhilE

Crag features

Best described as 'adventure sport climbing', with many routes requiring the leader to top out and be seconded to retrieve quickdraws. Well bolted.

More details at http://www.freewebs.com/arbroathclimbing/index.htm

Approach notes

No problems - ample parking and a tarred path approach. Some of the walls are tidal - check the guidebook for details.

I mistakenly left two draws (one trad, one extendable draw) on the main sector cartoon. If anyone finds these, and can return them, I would be very grateful!
JuddTravers - 19/Dec/16
Lovely place to climb and very well bolted including anchors at the top. Rock is sound and holds are good but well hidden (think BennyBeg but not as bad).
CyberTaff - 23/Jul/15
The SMC guidebook lists a number of numbered posts on the cliff path, these are no longer in the same place, adding to much confusion finding the routes.
lemon - 04/Oct/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  THE RUT
2 Low Traverse f6C 6b *** 2
3 Middle Traverse f4+ 5b * 2
4 High Traverse f3 4b * 3
5 Stag Night 5c 58
6 Strut Yer Stuff 6b 27
7 Burning with Anxiety 6b+ 19
8 Road Rage 6a+ * 35
9 Flaked Out 5a ** 63
10 Stuck in a Rut 6a 30
11 The Shelf f4 5b * 1
  THE DIVING BOARD
13 In at the Deep End 7a **  
14 Take the Plunge 6b+ * 1
  lower Platform
16 In with the In Crowd 6c 1
  THE PLATFORM
18 Smokies
-
6b+ * 10
19 Ride 'em Cowboy
-
6b+ ** 22
20 Waves of Emotion
-
6b * 26
21 Parsons Nose
-
6b+ * 12
22 Caught Red-Handed
-
6c ** 12
23 Impaled on the Horns of Indecision 6c+ * 3
24 Cast Adrift on the Ocean of Uncertainty 7a+ ** 4
25 At the Crossroads of Destiny and Desire
-
7a ** 4
26 Foundering on the Rocks of Obsession 7a * 4
27 Seaside Special
-
5a 34
28 Original Route
-
3a * 13
29 Original Route Direct Start
-
5c * 25
30 Climbers Wear Platforms
-
6b * 15
31 Towing the Line 6a * 11
32 Rubbin salt into the wound 6b+ ** 4
  The Backstage
34 Swimming against the Tide of Tradition 6c+ ** 1
35 Out of the Red and into the Black. At last! 7a * 1
  THE STAGE
37 First Night Nerves 6c  
38 Shore Beats Working 6b  
  THE TOWER
40 Wall of Hate 5a 2
41 Meaty Hefts 4a ** 4
42 Declaration of Intent 6a * 4
43 The Krab 6b * 2
44 The Selfish Shellfish 6a 2
  Non-Tidal Wave
46 Wave Escape 3a *  
47 Say Hello but Wave Goodbye 6b+ *  
48 Brain Wave 6b *  
49 On a Different Wavelength 6c  
50 Closed Project Project  
51 Shockwave 7a+  
52 Wave Power 7b+ *  
53 7th Wave 7a **  
  Promontory North Face
55 The Red Lichtie 6a+  
56 Barging into the Presence of God 6b+  
57 Pilgrims Progress 7a *  
  Promontory South Face
59 The Abbey Habit 6a * 4
60 Stitch in Time 6b * 3
61 Buoys of summer 6b+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
62 E'evil Dead 6c *** 4
63 Flesh E'eter 7a+ **  
64 Project (Closed) Project  
  SECTOR CARTOON
66 Looney Tunes
-
5c 41
67 Fred Flintstone
-
3c 38
68 Disney Look Too Bad 6a 46
69 Cow And Chicken
-
3c 58
70 Top Cat
-
4a 57
71 A Grand Day Out
-
4c 73
72 The Wrong Trousers
-
4a 62
73 Pinky and the Brain
-
4a 65
74 62 West Wallaby Street
-
3c 57
75 The Pearls of Penelope Pitstop
-
6a+ 50
76 Rugrats Revenge
-
5a 43
77 Fantastic Four
-
3a 30
  SECTOR PARENTAL GUIDANCE (Left)
79 Silver Surfer
-
4a 13
80 Be Calmed
-
5c 26
81 Parental Guidance
-
6b+ * 19
82 Layin Down the Law 6b+ * 10
83 "O" Zone Slayer 6b+ * 6
84 Pushin the Limpets 7b+ ** 2
  sector parental guidance (right)
86 Grounded 7a+ **  
87 Not for Childrens E'e 6c *  
88 Loose Lips Sink Ships 6a+ 3
89 Do as I Say not as I Do
-
6a+ 1
  THE STEPPES
91 Steppeladder
-
4a 17
92 Steppes Back in Amazement
-
6b 8
93 Kazakhstani Castaway
-
6b+ 7
94 One Steppe Forward
-
6b 15
95 Two Steppes Back
-
6a+ 22
96 Put Out to Grass
-
6a 29
97 High Stepper
-
6b 18
98 Steppin' Out
-
4c 24
99 Steppe in the Right Direction 6b * 4
  Project Wall
101 Ossian 8a 1
  WARSHIP WALL
103 Dread Knot 6b 5
104 Broad Side 6b+ 3
  Mermaids Kirk
106 Jump 'n' Run 4a * 3
107 Kickstarter 4b 1
108 Diagon Alley 6b **  
  SECTOR MINI
110 Minitial
-
4a 17
111 Minitiation
-
4a 16
112 Minimal
-
4c 18
113 Minimical
-
6a+ 13
114 Miniquity
-
4c 7
115 Minitiative
-
4c 5
  CONNING TOWER INLET
117 Vast mango in Tardis 6c+ ** 4
118 Mutton Dressed as Clam 7a+ * 2
119 Silence of the Clams 5c *** 22
120 Galley Slave 6c * 2
121 Pulling Muscles from a Shell 6c * 1
122 Swindlers List 6a+ *** 16
Climb name Grade
123 Concentration Cramp 6c * 1
124 Short Arms, Deep Pockets 6b 3
125 The Peem Machine
-
6c+ ** 2
126 Haarbinger
-
6b+ ** 3
  THE HAVEN
128 Haven Fun
-
6b 4
129 A Close Shave 6c 3
130 Shaven Haven 5a * 5
131 Haven Can't Wait 6a+ 4
132 Don't Bridget Neilson 6b 1
133 Dark Sar-Chasm 5c ** 3
134 Vulgar Display of Power 7b+ ** 2
135 Knockin' on Havens Door 7b ** 7
136 Davids Route 5a * 13
  Bollard Buttress
138 The Grade Escape 5c * 10
139 Sun Seeker 6a+ * 5
  THE GARGOYLE
  THE BATTERY
142 Artillery Arete
-
5c * 4
143 Bringing Out the Big Guns 6b+ ** 1
144 Every Ready Arete
-
7a ** 2
  THE HAUL WALL
146 Heave Ho!
-
5c * 7
147 In Too Deep
-
6a+ ** 11
148 The Jug of Jug Haul 6c ** 1
149 The Siren 6c *** 5
150 Air Raid 7a ** 1
  Grannies Garrett
152 Sweet Dreams are Made of This 7a+ ** 3
153 Satans Serenade 6b+ ** 15
154 Mushroom Treatment 6b ** 21
  The Deils Heid
156 Deil Or No Deil E8 6b ** 1
157 Dickenson's Real Deil E7 6c * 1
158 Deil Me In E5 6a 1
159 Between the Deil and the Deep Blue Sea 6c ** 5
160 The Heidmaster 7a+ ** 2
161 The Deil's Heid 5c *** 67
162 The Frozen Wave
-
f6B+ 1
163 Wave Left Hand
-
f6A+ 1
  The Eyrie
165 Mudda 5c 1
166 Haggis Breakfast 5a 1
167 For the Future of Climbing 2a 1
168 Rockstars 3c 1
169 Sunrise 5c 1
170 Sunset 2c 1
171 Azzy Spongy 4c  
172 Dangerzone 3c 1
173 No! D'Oh! Nuts! 4a 1
174 Cornerrama 4a 1
  Sunshine Wall
176 Follow the White Rabbit 6a+  
177 Trust me, I'm an Engineer 5c  
178 Solar Eclipse 5c  
179 Avertical 5b  
180 STAUMC 5b  
181 Midnight Topout 5c  
182 Spring Tide 3c 1

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