Climbs 271
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces W

In condition? Leaving the axes at home for a winter ascent of Embankment 2...the way it should be done. © Alex Messenger

Crag features

The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Approach notes

Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
a new 10m arête E3 sounds nice - but 3 stars? really? and with 3 pegs, haven't seen them but must be fairly safe and very hard.. was it soloed o/s or after inspection and the pegs being put in? will be interested to see
nickcanute - 07/Oct/15
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Bay
2 Brindle VS 4c 8
3 Scrimsel VS 4c 7
4 Brimstone E2 5b ** 369
5 Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 39
6 Anything is Possible in Cartoons E4 6b  
7 Gates of Mordor E3 5c ** 211
8 Pin Prick E2 5c  
9 Hacklespur HVS 5b * 44
10 Cauldron Crack E3 5c * 16
11 Freight Train
-
E4 6a * 2
12 Estremo HVS 5a ** 131
13 Gimbals HVS 5b ** 124
14 London Pride E5 6b ** 9
15 Mother's Pride E6 6c *** 25
16 Perplexity E6 6b *** 11
17 Apoplexy E7 6b ** 2
18 Plexity HVS 5a *** 628
19 Remembrance Day VS 4c ** 188
20 Day Dream VS 4c * 51
21 Rainy Day VS 4b 21
22 Southern Comfort E3 5c * 3
23 Owzaboutthatthen E4 6b  
24 Commix E2 5c * 40
25 Top Loader E7 6c *** 1
26 Bohemian Grove f8A **  
27 Drifter E7 6c * 1
28 Saville Street E3 6a *** 139
29 Shape Shifter E6 6b * 1
30 Soho Sally E1 5b * 38
31 Obscurity E6 6b * 1
32 Learn to Forget E6 6b 2
  Little Lower Wall
34 Brigadoon f7B ** 3
35 Salinela Sunset E4 6a  
36 Fat and Jealous E5 6c  
37 Deceptive Rib f5+ *  
38 Steady Arete f5 *  
  Cioch Bay
40 Slack Alice E1 5c  
41 Bamboozle VS 4c 1
42 Dolorous Gard E2 5b 2
43 Fluted Corner HS 4b 6
44 February Fox E1 5b * 32
45 March Hare E2 5b ** 75
46 April ArĂȘte HVS 4c ** 181
47 Dextrous Hare E3 5c ** 149
48 Dexterity E1 5b ** 873
49 Cioch Corner S 4a 220
50 Mayday HVS 5a * 355
51 Supra Direct HVS 5b * 403
52 The Hacker VS 4c * 162
53 Close Shave S 4a * 407
54 Boomerang S 4a * 351
55 Cioch Diagonal
-
HVD 22
56 Brumal Direct HVS 5b 2
57 Brumal VS 4c 53
58 Straight Jacket E5 6b  
59 Eskimo Blue Day
-
VS 4c 6
60 Cornerstone Climb
-
HS 4a 22
61 Shamrot S 4a 1
62 Only Just E2 5b * 111
63 Eartha HS 4a ** 848
64 Slime Crime E4 6a  
65 Bowling Green
-
VD * 24
66 F.A.T.D. HS 4a * 45
67 Rough Puff
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HS 4b 9
68 Flaky Pastry
-
HS 4b 15
69 Sudden Impact E1 5b  
70 Dune Flake VS 4a 3
71 Dune Crack VS 4a 1
72 The Pittsburgh Enigma E4 5c 1
73 Wuthering Crack HVS 5a 12
74 Evening Premiere HVS 5a * 24
75 Evening Premiere Direct Finish E1 5b 3
76 Creaking Corner HS 4b 2
77 Crumbling Corner HS 4a 3
  Great Slab
79 Crumbling Cracks HS 4a 3
80 Svelt HVS 5a * 521
81 Gibbering Heap of Puss E3 5c  
82 The Psycho Path E6 6b *  
83 Velvet E2 5c 5
84 The Snivelling Shit E5 6a ** 141
85 Election Special E3 6a * 7
86 The Moronic Chippings VS 4a 176
87 The Great Slab HS 4b ** 1321
88 Dino E4 6b 1
89 Sex Dwarves f6B+ ** 65
90 Lorica VS 4c ** 194
91 Cake Walk S 4a 23
92 Bun Run HVS 5a 19
93 WindrĂȘte E2 5b ** 62
  Twikker Area
95 Breeze Mugger E5 6b 1
96 Meeze Brugger E5 6b * 5
97 Eros E1 5b ** 398
98 Frank Sinatra Bows Out E5 6b  
99 Acheron VS 4c  
100 Mean to Me HVS 5b  
101 Lyons Corner House Direct HVS 5a ** 311
102 African E3 6a **  
103 Erbivore E5 6b  
104 Lyons Corner House HVS 5a *** 762
105 Erb E2 5c *** 449
106 Twikker E3 5c *** 208
107 Lubric HVS 5b * 18
108 The Bed of Procustes f8A+ ***  
109 Pinstone Street E2 5c * 64
110 Grist to the Mill E4 6a * 2
111 Diamond Groove HVS 5b 16
112 Shady Wall VS 4c  
113 Helliconia Spring HVS 5a  
114 Black Crack S 4a 4
115 Optimus E1 5a  
116 Flapjack VS 4b * 171
117 Neatfeet HVS 5a * 47
118 S.S.S. VS 4c * 79
119 Winter's Grip E6 6b ** 6
120 Keelhaul VS 4c 42
121 Crusty Corner S 4a 5
122 Quiddity HVS 5a * 60
123 Findus HVS 5b 1
124 Billingsgate E1 5b ** 483
125 Sea Creature E4 6a  
126 Piledriver E3 5c  
  Green Death
128 Nib Nob HVS 5b 7
129 Stone Dri E2 6a * 63
130 Crewcut VS 4c ** 255
131 Yourolympus HVS 4c 14
132 Myolympus HVS 5b 4
133 Under Doctor's Orders E2 6a * 37
134 Jealous Pensioner E4 5c * 64
135 King Ellmore E6 6a * 3
136 Xanadu E1 5b ** 23
137 Xanadu Direct E3 5c ** 18
138 The Trumpton Anarchist E5 6c 2
139 Adios Amigo E5 6b ** 1
140 Cherry Bank Road f7A *  
141 Great West Road E3 5b *** 258
142 Edge Lane E5 5c *** 108
143 Green Death E5 5c *** 66
144 Green Death Left-Hand Start V3 6a 8
145 Green Death Start f6C *** 48
146 Green Death Superdirect f7B *** 16
147 Master's Edge E7 6c *** 32
148 Pure Now E9 6c *  
149 The Bad and the Beautiful E6 6c *** 11
150 Great Arete E5 5c *** 7
151 Stranger in Paradise E5 6a  
  Great North Road
153 Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 458
154 Scoop Crack VS 4b 242
155 The Scoop D * 319
156 Discovery HVS 5b 5
157 Detour E2 5c ** 39
158 The Hunter House Road Toad E5 6b 11
159 Clock People E6 6c *  
160 Watling Street E3 5b * 17
161 By-Pass HVS 5a * 101
162 Great North Road HVS 5a *** 1907
163 Quality Street E5 6b * 3
164 Deaf Dog HVS 5b 15
165 Master Chef f7B ** 11
166 Master Chef Sit-Start
-
V9 6c ** 1
167 Technical Baiter f5 ** 76
168 Technical Master Left-hand f6C *** 90
169 Technical Master f6B *** 464
170 Technical Master One Handed V8 6c 9
  The Embankment
172 Embankment 1 E2 5c ** 510
173 Embankment 1 - First Pitch VS 4c * 528
174 Blind Bat E4 5c ** 27
175 10,000 Maniacs/Elm Street f7C+ ** 2
176 Who Wants the World E5 6a  
177 Embankment 2 VS 4c ** 2068
178 Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only) E1 5c 180
179 Scritto's Republic E7 6c ** 11
180 Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 1629
181 Tip Top f7C *  
182 Time for Tea E3 5c *** 748
183 Tea for Two E4 6a *** 77
184 Time for Tea Original E1 5b *** 250
185 Embankment 4 E1 5b *** 1002
186 Whitehall HVS 5b ** 197
187 The Jasmine Corridor E6 6c * 1
188 Lotto E1 5c * 59
189 Lotto Direct E3 5c * 12
190 Little Lotto ArĂȘte f5 ** 184
191 Little Lotto Arete Right f6C *  
192 Seventies Style Wall f6B+ *** 41
193 Handy Pocket
-
V1 5b ** 19
194 Handy Pocket Right
-
V4 6a * 9
195 Green Slab
-
V3 6a * 6
  London Wall
197 Covent Garden VS 4b ** 1321
198 Scruples E5 6b 3
199 Bond Street HVS 5a *** 2111
200 Monopoly E7 6b ** 18
201 Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 1648
202 The Impetus for Stranger Faces E5 5c  
203 White Wall E5 6b *** 112
204 The Mall VS 4c *** 1858
205 London Wall E5 6a *** 372
206 Urban Sprawl E6 6b  
207 Badly Bred E1 5c 6
208 Lambeth Chimney HS 4b * 502
  Keyhole Cave
210 The Metal Rash Traverse f5 * 1
211 Old Kent Road D 20
212 Whitechapel Road HVS 5a * 4
213 Alopecia
-
HVS 5a 9
214 Brittle Road to Freedom E1 5b 2
215 Petticoat Lane HVS 4c * 53
216 Bow Street HVS 4c * 57
217 Metal Rash
-
E1 5b 7
218 Brixton Road VD * 368
219 Ekel
-
S 4a 12
220 Skywalk VS 4b ** 172
221 Luke HVS 4c * 1
222 The Economist E6 6b * 1
223 Adam Smith's Invisible Hand E6 6b ** 7
224 The Rack E5 6a ** 13
225 Oxford Street E3 6b * 65
226 Oxford Street (Lower Crack) * HVS 5a ** 6
227 Littleheath Road E3 5c  
228 Keyhole Traverse 1 f6C *** 4
229 Keyhole Traverse 2 f7A *** 3
230 Keyhole Traverse 3 f7A+ *** 2
231 Keyhole Traverse 4 f7B+ *** 1
232 Piccadilly Circus E2 5c ** 328
233 Coventry Street E5 6b ** 162
234 Jermyn Street E5 6a *** 63
235 Jermyn Street Direct Finish
-
E5 6b  
236 Transmetropolitan E3 5c  
237 Regent Street E2 5c *** 1167
238 Regent Street Direct Start
-
E3 5c * 12
239 Wall Street Crash E5 6b ** 17
240 Shaftesbury Avenue HVS 5b * 214
241 The Whore HVS 5b * 147
242 Gimcrack VS 4c * 553
243 At-a-Cliff
-
HVS 5a 28
244 Wings of Steel E3 5c  
245 Happy Wanderer VS 5a 27
246 Wash and Brush Up E1 6b  
247 Charing Cross Road HVS 5a * 4
248 Oriel VS 5a * 100
249 Keyhole Cops E2 5c  
250 Trio Crack S 4a 12
251 Two Shot Holes f5+ * 32
  Hells Bells
253 Bent Crack HS 4c * 16
254 Piper's Crack VD 2
255 Butter-ess HVS 5b * 21
256 Crossways HVD 16
257 Key's Climb HVS 5a 3
258 Straight Leg VS 4b 1
259 Flared Bottom
-
HVS 5a 2
260 Flank Crack VD 45
261 Chiming Cracks HS 4a * 795
262 Hells Bells HS 4b * 632
263 Juniper E1 5b 28
264 Midrift VD 428
265 Dirty Harry E3 5c *** 2
266 Giant's Steps VD 371
267 Wonderlust E4 6a  
268 Street Legal E2 5c * 125
269 Blood and Guts on Botty Street E5 6b * 21
270 Frond Crack
-
VD 1
271 Crane Fly Climb
-
S 1
272 Helping hands
-
E1 5b 7
273 Annabella Superstella E2 6b  
274 Wilfred
-
S 4a 20
275 Squeak
-
VS 5b 14
276 Beneath the Pavement Lies the Beach E4 6a  
277 Pip
-
S 4a 9
  The Little Quarry
279 Fireworks
-
V5 6b 2
280 Damage
-
V4 6a 1
281 Halloween
-
V4 6b 1
282 Big Al V0 5a 4
283 Humpty Dumpty
-
E1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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