UKC

Climbs 276
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces W

In condition? Leaving the axes at home for a winter ascent of Embankment 2...the way it should be done. © Alex Messenger

Crag features

The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Approach notes

Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
a new 10m arête E3 sounds nice - but 3 stars? really? and with 3 pegs, haven't seen them but must be fairly safe and very hard.. was it soloed o/s or after inspection and the pegs being put in? will be interested to see
nickcanute - 07/Oct/15
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Bay
2 Brindle VS 4c 9
3 Scrimsel VS 4c 11
4 Brimstone E2 5b ** 397
5 Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 49
6 Anything is Possible in Cartoons E4 6b  
7 Gates of Mordor E3 5c ** 203
8 Pin Prick E2 5c 1
9 Hacklespur HVS 5b * 66
10 Cauldron Crack E3 5c * 16
11 Moorland Battleship E5 6a *  
12 Freight Train
-
E4 6a * 2
13 Estremo HVS 5a ** 179
14 Gimbals HVS 5b ** 157
15 London Pride E5 6b ** 7
16 Mother's Pride E6 6c *** 21
17 Perplexity E6 6b *** 11
18 Apoplexy E7 6b ** 3
19 Plexity HVS 5a *** 666
20 Remembrance Day VS 4c ** 248
21 Day Dream VS 4c * 58
22 Rainy Day VS 4b 22
23 Southern Comfort E3 5c * 4
24 Owzaboutthatthen E4 6b  
25 Commix E2 5c * 52
26 Top Loader E7 6c *** 2
27 Bohemian Grove f8A **  
28 Drifter E7 6c * 1
29 Saville Street E3 6a *** 128
30 Shape Shifter E6 6b * 4
31 Soho Sally E1 5b * 44
32 Obscurity E6 6b * 1
33 Learn to Forget E6 6b 2
  Little Lower Wall
35 Brigadoon f7B ** 3
36 Salinela Sunset E4 6a  
37 Fat and Jealous E5 6c  
38 Deceptive Rib f5+ *  
39 Steady Arete f5 *  
  Cioch Bay
41 Slack Alice E1 5c  
42 Bamboozle VS 4c 1
43 Dolorous Gard E2 5b 3
44 Fluted Corner HS 4b 6
45 February Fox E1 5b * 38
46 March Hare E2 5b ** 88
47 April ArĂȘte HVS 4c ** 206
48 Dextrous Hare E3 5c ** 172
49 Dexterity E1 5b ** 957
50 Cioch Corner S 4a 227
51 Mayday HVS 5a * 391
52 Supra Direct HVS 5b * 445
53 The Hacker VS 4c * 192
54 Close Shave S 4a * 445
55 Boomerang S 4a * 369
56 Cioch Diagonal
-
HVD 23
57 Brumal Direct HVS 5b 2
58 Brumal VS 4c 65
59 Straight Jacket E5 6b  
60 Eskimo Blue Day
-
VS 4c 8
61 Cornerstone Climb
-
HS 4a 29
62 Shamrot S 4a 1
63 Only Just E2 5b * 122
64 Eartha HS 4a ** 938
65 Slime Crime E4 6a  
66 Bowling Green
-
VD * 26
67 F.A.T.D. HS 4a * 50
68 Rough Puff
-
HS 4b 10
69 Flaky Pastry
-
HS 4b 17
70 Sudden Impact E1 5b  
71 Dune Flake VS 4a 4
72 Dune Crack VS 4a 1
73 The Pittsburgh Enigma E4 5c 1
74 Wuthering Crack HVS 5a 13
75 Evening Premiere HVS 5a * 25
76 Evening Premiere Direct Finish E1 5b 3
77 Creaking Corner HS 4b 4
78 Crumbling Corner HS 4a 3
  Great Slab
80 Crumbling Cracks HS 4a 3
81 Svelt HVS 5a * 546
82 Gibbering Heap of Puss E3 5c  
83 The Psycho Path E6 6b *  
84 Velvet E2 5c 5
85 Techno Prisoners * E5 6b 1
86 The Snivelling Shit E5 6a ** 156
87 Election Special E3 6a * 7
88 The Moronic Chippings VS 4a 185
89 The Great Slab HS 4b ** 1415
90 Dino E4 6b 4
91 Sex Dwarves f6B+ ** 72
92 Lorica VS 4c ** 206
93 Cake Walk S 4a 25
94 Bun Run HVS 5a 23
95 WindrĂȘte E2 5b ** 78
Climb name Grade
  Twikker Area
97 Breeze Mugger E5 6b 2
98 Meeze Brugger E5 6b * 6
99 Eros E1 5b ** 445
100 Frank Sinatra Bows Out E5 6b  
101 Acheron VS 4c  
102 Mean to Me HVS 5b 1
103 Lyons Corner House Direct HVS 5a ** 336
104 African E3 6a **  
105 Erbivore E5 6b  
106 Lyons Corner House HVS 5a *** 781
107 Erb E2 5c *** 472
108 Twikker E3 5c *** 205
109 Lubric HVS 5b * 20
110 The Bed of Procustes f8A+ ***  
111 Pinstone Street E2 5c * 67
112 Grist to the Mill E4 6a * 2
113 Diamond Groove HVS 5b 17
114 Shady Wall VS 4c  
115 Helliconia Spring HVS 5a  
116 Black Crack S 4a 4
117 Optimus E1 5a  
118 Flapjack VS 4b * 192
119 Neatfeet HVS 5a * 52
120 S.S.S. VS 4c * 81
121 Winter's Grip E6 6b ** 7
122 Keelhaul VS 4c 44
123 Crusty Corner S 4a 6
124 Quiddity HVS 5a * 68
125 Findus HVS 5b 1
126 Billingsgate E1 5b ** 513
127 Sea Creature E4 6a  
128 Piledriver E3 5c  
129 Mopsy VD 1
130 Rotten Row VD 1
  Green Death
132 Nib Nob HVS 5b 8
133 Stone Dri E2 6a * 76
134 Crewcut VS 4c ** 249
135 Yourolympus HVS 4c 16
136 Myolympus HVS 5b 6
137 Under Doctor's Orders E2 6a * 43
138 Jealous Pensioner E4 5c * 71
139 King Ellmore E6 6a * 3
140 Xanadu E1 5b ** 25
141 Xanadu Direct E3 5c ** 22
142 The Trumpton Anarchist E5 6c 2
143 Adios Amigo E5 6b ** 1
144 Cherry Bank Road f7A *  
145 Great West Road E3 5b *** 250
146 Edge Lane E5 5c *** 124
147 Green Death E5 5c *** 52
148 Green Death Left-Hand Start V3 6a 11
149 Green Death Start f6C *** 50
150 Green Death Superdirect f7B *** 14
151 Master's Edge E7 6c *** 49
152 Pure Now E9 6c *  
153 The Bad and the Beautiful E6 6c *** 12
154 Great Arete E5 5c *** 18
155 Stranger in Paradise E5 6a  
  Great North Road
157 Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 502
158 Scoop Crack VS 4b 265
159 The Scoop D * 352
160 Discovery HVS 5b 14
161 Detour E2 5c ** 52
162 The Hunter House Road Toad E5 6b 11
163 Clock People E6 6c * 1
164 Watling Street E3 5b * 18
165 By-Pass HVS 5a * 122
166 Great North Road HVS 5a *** 1917
167 Quality Street E5 6b * 3
168 Deaf Dog HVS 5b 16
169 Master Chef f7B ** 13
170 Master Chef Sit-Start
-
V9 ** 1
171 Technical Baiter f5 ** 87
172 Technical Master Left-hand f6C *** 95
173 Technical Master f6B *** 461
174 Technical Master One Handed V8 11
  The Embankment
176 Embankment 1 E2 5c ** 512
177 Embankment 1 - First Pitch VS 4c * 651
178 Blind Bat E4 5c ** 32
179 10,000 Maniacs/Elm Street f7C+ ** 2
180 Who Wants the World E5 6a  
181 Embankment 2 VS 4c ** 2306
182 Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only) E1 5c 212
183 Scritto's Republic E7 6c ** 17
184 Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 1793
185 Tip Top f7C *  
186 Time for Tea E3 5c *** 718
187 Tea for Two E4 6a *** 71
188 Time for Tea Original E1 5b *** 259
189 Embankment 4 E1 5b *** 1088
190 Whitehall HVS 5b ** 206
191 The Jasmine Corridor E6 6c * 1
Climb name Grade
192 Lotto E1 5c * 68
193 Lotto Direct E3 5c * 12
194 Little Lotto ArĂȘte f5 ** 204
195 Little Lotto Arete Right f6C * 1
196 Seventies Style Wall f6B+ *** 44
197 Handy Pocket
-
V1 ** 20
198 Handy Pocket Right
-
V4 * 9
199 Green Slab
-
V3 * 6
  London Wall
201 Covent Garden VS 4b ** 1496
202 Scruples E5 6b 3
203 Bond Street HVS 5a *** 2323
204 Monopoly E7 6b ** 18
205 Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 1875
206 The Impetus for Stranger Faces E5 5c  
207 White Wall E5 6b *** 97
208 The Mall VS 4c *** 2061
209 London Wall E5 6a *** 145
210 Urban Sprawl E6 6b  
211 Badly Bred E1 5c 7
212 Lambeth Chimney HS 4b * 564
  Keyhole Cave
214 The Metal Rash Traverse f5 * 2
215 Old Kent Road D 20
216 Whitechapel Road HVS 5a * 5
217 Alopecia
-
HVS 5a 10
218 Brittle Road to Freedom E1 5b 3
219 Petticoat Lane HVS 4c * 59
220 Bow Street HVS 4c * 62
221 Metal Rash
-
E1 5b 8
222 Brixton Road VD * 415
223 Ekel
-
S 4a 13
224 Skywalk VS 4b ** 197
225 Luke HVS 4c * 1
226 The Economist E6 6b * 1
227 Adam Smith's Invisible Hand E6 6b ** 10
228 The Rack E5 6a ** 13
229 Oxford Street E3 6b * 71
230 Oxford Street (Lower Crack) HVS 5a ** 27
231 Littleheath Road E3 5c 1
232 Keyhole Traverse 1 f6C *** 7
233 Keyhole Traverse 2 f7A *** 4
234 Keyhole Traverse 3 f7A+ *** 3
235 Keyhole Traverse 4 f7B+ *** 1
236 Piccadilly Circus E2 5c ** 358
237 Coventry Street E5 6b ** 170
238 Coventry Street (Lower Crack) E4 6b ** 15
239 Jermyn Street E5 6a *** 59
240 Jermyn Street Direct Finish
-
E5 6b  
241 Transmetropolitan E3 5c  
242 Regent Street E2 5c *** 1136
243 Regent Street Direct Start
-
E3 5c * 13
244 Wall Street Crash E5 6b ** 17
245 Shaftesbury Avenue HVS 5b * 246
246 The Whore HVS 5b * 157
247 Gimcrack VS 4c * 623
248 At-a-Cliff
-
HVS 5a 30
249 Wings of Steel E3 5c  
250 Happy Wanderer VS 5a 28
251 Wash and Brush Up E1 6b  
252 Charing Cross Road HVS 5a * 5
253 Oriel VS 5a * 115
254 Keyhole Cops E2 5c  
255 Trio Crack S 4a 13
256 Two Shot Holes f5+ * 32
  Hells Bells
258 Bent Crack HS 4c * 18
259 Piper's Crack VD 3
260 Butter-ess HVS 5b * 26
261 Crossways HVD 22
262 Key's Climb HVS 5a 3
263 Straight Leg VS 4b 1
264 Flared Bottom
-
HVS 5a 3
265 Flank Crack VD 49
266 Chiming Cracks HS 4a * 897
267 Hells Bells HS 4b * 698
268 Juniper E1 5b 42
269 Midrift VD 489
270 Dirty Harry E3 5c *** 2
271 Giant's Steps VD 412
272 Wonderlust E4 6a  
273 Street Legal E2 5c * 132
274 Blood and Guts on Botty Street E5 6b * 24
275 Frond Crack
-
VD 2
276 Crane Fly Climb
-
S 2
277 Helping hands
-
E1 5b 11
278 Annabella Superstella E2 6b 1
279 Wilfred
-
S 4a 22
280 Squeak
-
VS 5b 16
281 Beneath the Pavement Lies the Beach E4 6a  
282 Pip
-
S 4a 11
  The Little Quarry
284 Fireworks
-
V5 2
285 Damage
-
V4 1
286 Halloween
-
V4 1
287 Big Al V0 4
288 Humpty Dumpty
-
E1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83