Climbs 271
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces W

In condition? Leaving the axes at home for a winter ascent of Embankment 2...the way it should be done. © Alex Messenger

Crag features

The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Approach notes

Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
a new 10m arÍte E3 sounds nice - but 3 stars? really? and with 3 pegs, haven't seen them but must be fairly safe and very hard.. was it soloed o/s or after inspection and the pegs being put in? will be interested to see
nickcanute - 07/Oct/15
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Bay 
2BrindleVS 4c 8
3ScrimselVS 4c 7
4BrimstoneE2 5b **339
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *36
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b  
7Gates of MordorE3 5c **195
8Pin PrickE2 5c  
9HacklespurHVS 5b *42
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *16
11Freight Train
-
E4 6a *2
12EstremoHVS 5a **140
13GimbalsHVS 5b **111
14London PrideE5 6b **5
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***18
16PerplexityE6 6b ***11
17ApoplexyE7 6b **2
18PlexityHVS 5a ***583
19Remembrance DayVS 4c **164
20Day DreamVS 4c *44
21Rainy DayVS 4b 20
22Southern ComfortE3 5c *3
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b  
24CommixE2 5c *37
25Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
26Bohemian Grovef8A ** 
27DrifterE7 6c *1
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***130
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
30Soho SallyE1 5b *32
31ObscurityE6 6b *1
32Learn to ForgetE6 6b 2
 Little Lower Wall 
34Brigadoonf7B **3
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a  
36Fat and JealousE5 6c  
37Deceptive Ribf5+ * 
38Steady Aretef5 * 
 Cioch Bay 
40Slack AliceE1 5c  
41BamboozleVS 4c 1
42Dolorous GardE2 5b 2
43Fluted CornerHS 4b 6
44February FoxE1 5b *27
45March HareE2 5b **77
46April ArÍteHVS 4c **173
47Dextrous HareE3 5c **134
48DexterityE1 5b **820
49Cioch CornerS 4a 209
50MaydayHVS 5a *334
51Supra DirectHVS 5b *375
52The HackerVS 4c *144
53Close ShaveS 4a *389
54BoomerangS 4a *333
55Cioch Diagonal
-
HVD 21
56Brumal DirectHVS 5b 2
57BrumalVS 4c 50
58Straight JacketE5 6b  
59Eskimo Blue Day
-
VS 4c 6
60Cornerstone Climb
-
HS 4a 21
61ShamrotS 4a 1
62Only JustE2 5b *103
63EarthaHS 4a **797
64Slime CrimeE4 6a  
65Bowling Green
-
VD *24
66F.A.T.D.HS 4a *42
67Rough Puff
-
HS 4b 9
68Flaky Pastry
-
HS 4b 15
69Sudden ImpactE1 5b  
70Dune FlakeVS 4a 3
71Dune CrackVS 4a 1
72The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c 1
73Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 12
74Evening PremiereHVS 5a *22
75Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b 3
76Creaking CornerHS 4b 2
77Crumbling CornerHS 4a 3
 Great Slab 
79Crumbling CracksHS 4a 3
80SveltHVS 5a *485
81Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c  
82The Psycho PathE6 6b * 
83VelvetE2 5c 5
84The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **181
85Election SpecialE3 6a *7
86The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 171
87The Great SlabHS 4b **1261
88DinoE4 6b 1
89Sex Dwarvesf6B+ **69
90LoricaVS 4c **184
91Cake WalkS 4a 23
92Bun RunHVS 5a 19
93WindrÍteE2 5b **59
 Twikker Area 
95Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
96Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
97ErosE1 5b **388
98Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b  
99AcheronVS 4c  
100Mean to MeHVS 5b  
101Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **304
102AfricanE3 6a ** 
103ErbivoreE5 6b  
104Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***733
105ErbE2 5c ***432
106TwikkerE3 5c ***198
107LubricHVS 5b *17
108The Bed of Procustesf8A+ *** 
109Pinstone StreetE2 5c *61
110Grist to the MillE4 6a *2
111Diamond GrooveHVS 5b 15
112Shady WallVS 4c  
113Helliconia SpringHVS 5a  
114Black CrackS 4a 4
115OptimusE1 5a  
116FlapjackVS 4b *175
117NeatfeetHVS 5a *48
118S.S.S.VS 4c *82
119Winter's GripE6 6b **6
120KeelhaulVS 4c 42
121Crusty CornerS 4a 5
122QuiddityHVS 5a *60
123FindusHVS 5b 1
124BillingsgateE1 5b **456
125Sea CreatureE4 6a  
126PiledriverE3 5c  
 Green Death 
128Nib NobHVS 5b 7
129Stone DriE2 6a *63
130CrewcutVS 4c **237
131YourolympusHVS 4c 13
132MyolympusHVS 5b 3
133Under Doctor's OrdersE2 6a *35
134Jealous PensionerE4 5c *59
135King EllmoreE6 6a *3
136XanaduE1 5b **28
137Xanadu DirectE3 5c **18
138The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
139Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
140Cherry Bank Roadf7A * 
141Great West RoadE3 5b ***249
142Edge LaneE5 5c ***166
143Green DeathE5 5c ***65
144Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 8
145Green Death Startf6C ***40
146Green Death Superdirectf7B ***13
147Master's EdgeE7 6c ***106
148Pure NowE9 6c * 
149The Bad and the BeautifulE6 6c ***19
150Great AreteE5 5c ***6
151Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a  
 Great North Road 
153KnightsbridgeE2 5c ***429
154Scoop CrackVS 4b 227
155The ScoopD *309
156DiscoveryHVS 5b 5
157DetourE2 5c **39
158The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b 11
159Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
160Watling StreetE3 5b *17
161By-PassHVS 5a *96
162Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1780
163Quality StreetE5 6b *3
164Deaf DogHVS 5b 15
165Master Cheff7B **11
166Master Chef Sit-Start
-
V9 **1
167Technical Baiterf5 **73
168Technical Master Left-handf6C ***82
169Technical Masterf6B ***438
170Technical Master One HandedV8 10
 The Embankment 
172Embankment 1E2 5c **495
173Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *481
174Blind BatE4 5c **27
17510,000 Maniacs/Elm Streetf7C+ **2
176Who Wants the WorldE5 6a  
177Embankment 2VS 4c **1930
178Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 177
179Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **7
180Embankment 3E1 5b ***1522
181Tip Topf7C * 
182Time for TeaE3 5c ***697
183Tea for TwoE4 6a ***71
184Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b ***224
185Embankment 4E1 5b ***927
186WhitehallHVS 5b **185
187The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c *1
188LottoE1 5c *59
189Lotto DirectE3 5c *12
190Little Lotto ArÍtef5 **179
191Little Lotto Arete Rightf6C * 
192Seventies Style Wallf6B+ ***40
193Handy Pocket
-
V1 **19
194Handy Pocket Right
-
V4 *9
195Green Slab
-
V3 *6
 London Wall 
197Covent GardenVS 4b **1239
198ScruplesE5 6b 3
199Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1964
200MonopolyE7 6b **16
201Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1548
202The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c  
203White WallE5 6b ***112
204The MallVS 4c ***1728
205London WallE5 6a ***362
206Urban SprawlE6 6b  
207Badly BredE1 5c 6
208Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *478
 Keyhole Cave 
210The Metal Rash Traversef5 *1
211Old Kent RoadD 20
212Whitechapel RoadHVS 5a *4
213Alopecia
-
HVS 5a 9
214Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b 2
215Petticoat LaneHVS 4c *50
216Bow StreetHVS 4c *57
217Metal Rash
-
E1 5b 7
218Brixton RoadVD *356
219Ekel
-
S 4a 12
220SkywalkVS 4b **174
221LukeHVS 4c *1
222The EconomistE6 6b *1
223Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b **6
224The RackE5 6a **13
225Oxford StreetE3 6b *65
226Oxford Street (Lower Crack) *HVS 5a **2
227Littleheath RoadE3 5c  
228Keyhole Traverse 1f6C ***4
229Keyhole Traverse 2f7A ***3
230Keyhole Traverse 3f7A+ ***1
231Keyhole Traverse 4f7B+ ***1
232Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **316
233Coventry StreetE5 6b **135
234Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***47
235Jermyn Street Direct Finish
-
E5 6b  
236TransmetropolitanE3 5c  
237Regent StreetE2 5c ***1102
238Regent Street Direct Start
-
E3 5c *12
239Wall Street CrashE5 6b **12
240Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5b *205
241The WhoreHVS 5b *143
242GimcrackVS 4c *524
243At-a-Cliff
-
HVS 5a 28
244Wings of SteelE3 5c  
245Happy WandererVS 5a 27
246Wash and Brush UpE1 6b  
247Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *4
248OrielVS 5a *92
249Keyhole CopsE2 5c  
250Trio CrackS 4a 12
251Two Shot Holesf5+ *32
 Hells Bells 
253Bent CrackHS 4c *14
254Piper's CrackVD 2
255Butter-essHVS 5b *20
256CrosswaysHVD 13
257Key's ClimbHVS 5a 3
258Straight LegVS 4b 1
259Flared Bottom
-
HVS 5a 2
260Flank CrackVD 42
261Chiming CracksHS 4a *736
262Hells BellsHS 4b *586
263JuniperE1 5b 27
264MidriftVD 412
265Dirty HarryE3 5c ***2
266Giant's StepsVD 359
267WonderlustE4 6a  
268Street LegalE2 5c *123
269Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b *20
270Frond Crack
-
VD 1
271Crane Fly Climb
-
S 1
272Helping hands
-
E1 5b 7
273Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b  
274Wilfred
-
S 4a 20
275Squeak
-
VS 5b 14
276Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a  
277Pip
-
S 4a 9
 The Little Quarry 
279Fireworks
-
V5 2
280Damage
-
V4 1
281Halloween
-
V4 1
282Big AlV0 4
283Humpty Dumpty
-
E1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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