UKC

Climbs 275
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces W

In condition? Leaving the axes at home for a winter ascent of Embankment 2...the way it should be done. © Alex Messenger

Crag features

The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Approach notes

Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
a new 10m arête E3 sounds nice - but 3 stars? really? and with 3 pegs, haven't seen them but must be fairly safe and very hard.. was it soloed o/s or after inspection and the pegs being put in? will be interested to see
nickcanute - 07/Oct/15
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Bay
2 Brindle VS 4c 8
3 Scrimsel VS 4c 9
4 Brimstone E2 5b ** 373
5 Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 40
6 Anything is Possible in Cartoons E4 6b  
7 Gates of Mordor E3 5c ** 190
8 Pin Prick E2 5c  
9 Hacklespur HVS 5b * 49
10 Cauldron Crack E3 5c * 16
11 Freight Train
-
E4 6a * 2
12 Estremo HVS 5a ** 152
13 Gimbals HVS 5b ** 145
14 London Pride E5 6b ** 7
15 Mother's Pride E6 6c *** 20
16 Perplexity E6 6b *** 11
17 Apoplexy E7 6b ** 3
18 Plexity HVS 5a *** 628
19 Remembrance Day VS 4c ** 224
20 Day Dream VS 4c * 55
21 Rainy Day VS 4b 21
22 Southern Comfort E3 5c * 3
23 Owzaboutthatthen E4 6b  
24 Commix E2 5c * 45
25 Top Loader E7 6c *** 2
26 Bohemian Grove f8A **  
27 Drifter E7 6c * 1
28 Saville Street E3 6a *** 118
29 Shape Shifter E6 6b * 1
30 Soho Sally E1 5b * 44
31 Obscurity E6 6b * 1
32 Learn to Forget E6 6b 2
  Little Lower Wall
34 Brigadoon f7B ** 3
35 Salinela Sunset E4 6a  
36 Fat and Jealous E5 6c  
37 Deceptive Rib f5+ *  
38 Steady Arete f5 *  
  Cioch Bay
40 Slack Alice E1 5c  
41 Bamboozle VS 4c 1
42 Dolorous Gard E2 5b 3
43 Fluted Corner HS 4b 6
44 February Fox E1 5b * 34
45 March Hare E2 5b ** 82
46 April ArĂȘte HVS 4c ** 191
47 Dextrous Hare E3 5c ** 159
48 Dexterity E1 5b ** 889
49 Cioch Corner S 4a 218
50 Mayday HVS 5a * 378
51 Supra Direct HVS 5b * 416
52 The Hacker VS 4c * 176
53 Close Shave S 4a * 423
54 Boomerang S 4a * 355
55 Cioch Diagonal
-
HVD 22
56 Brumal Direct HVS 5b 2
57 Brumal VS 4c 58
58 Straight Jacket E5 6b  
59 Eskimo Blue Day
-
VS 4c 8
60 Cornerstone Climb
-
HS 4a 25
61 Shamrot S 4a 1
62 Only Just E2 5b * 121
63 Eartha HS 4a ** 893
64 Slime Crime E4 6a  
65 Bowling Green
-
VD * 25
66 F.A.T.D. HS 4a * 46
67 Rough Puff
-
HS 4b 9
68 Flaky Pastry
-
HS 4b 16
69 Sudden Impact E1 5b  
70 Dune Flake VS 4a 3
71 Dune Crack VS 4a 1
72 The Pittsburgh Enigma E4 5c 1
73 Wuthering Crack HVS 5a 12
74 Evening Premiere HVS 5a * 25
75 Evening Premiere Direct Finish E1 5b 3
76 Creaking Corner HS 4b 4
77 Crumbling Corner HS 4a 3
  Great Slab
79 Crumbling Cracks HS 4a 3
80 Svelt HVS 5a * 526
81 Gibbering Heap of Puss E3 5c  
82 The Psycho Path E6 6b *  
83 Velvet E2 5c 5
84 Techno Prisoners * E5 6b 1
85 The Snivelling Shit E5 6a ** 152
86 Election Special E3 6a * 7
87 The Moronic Chippings VS 4a 180
88 The Great Slab HS 4b ** 1363
89 Dino E4 6b 2
90 Sex Dwarves f6B+ ** 69
91 Lorica VS 4c ** 195
92 Cake Walk S 4a 23
93 Bun Run HVS 5a 21
94 WindrĂȘte E2 5b ** 69
  Twikker Area
96 Breeze Mugger E5 6b 2
Climb name Grade
97 Meeze Brugger E5 6b * 6
98 Eros E1 5b ** 419
99 Frank Sinatra Bows Out E5 6b  
100 Acheron VS 4c  
101 Mean to Me HVS 5b 1
102 Lyons Corner House Direct HVS 5a ** 323
103 African E3 6a **  
104 Erbivore E5 6b  
105 Lyons Corner House HVS 5a *** 736
106 Erb E2 5c *** 452
107 Twikker E3 5c *** 193
108 Lubric HVS 5b * 19
109 The Bed of Procustes f8A+ ***  
110 Pinstone Street E2 5c * 65
111 Grist to the Mill E4 6a * 2
112 Diamond Groove HVS 5b 17
113 Shady Wall VS 4c  
114 Helliconia Spring HVS 5a  
115 Black Crack S 4a 4
116 Optimus E1 5a  
117 Flapjack VS 4b * 181
118 Neatfeet HVS 5a * 49
119 S.S.S. VS 4c * 79
120 Winter's Grip E6 6b ** 6
121 Keelhaul VS 4c 42
122 Crusty Corner S 4a 6
123 Quiddity HVS 5a * 62
124 Findus HVS 5b 1
125 Billingsgate E1 5b ** 489
126 Sea Creature E4 6a  
127 Piledriver E3 5c  
128 Mopsy VD 1
129 Rotten Row VD 1
  Green Death
131 Nib Nob HVS 5b 7
132 Stone Dri E2 6a * 70
133 Crewcut VS 4c ** 237
134 Yourolympus HVS 4c 16
135 Myolympus HVS 5b 5
136 Under Doctor's Orders E2 6a * 38
137 Jealous Pensioner E4 5c * 65
138 King Ellmore E6 6a * 3
139 Xanadu E1 5b ** 25
140 Xanadu Direct E3 5c ** 21
141 The Trumpton Anarchist E5 6c 2
142 Adios Amigo E5 6b ** 1
143 Cherry Bank Road f7A *  
144 Great West Road E3 5b *** 241
145 Edge Lane E5 5c *** 116
146 Green Death E5 5c *** 44
147 Green Death Left-Hand Start V3 6a 8
148 Green Death Start f6C *** 44
149 Green Death Superdirect f7B *** 12
150 Master's Edge E7 6c *** 39
151 Pure Now E9 6c *  
152 The Bad and the Beautiful E6 6c *** 12
153 Great Arete E5 5c *** 9
154 Stranger in Paradise E5 6a  
  Great North Road
156 Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 461
157 Scoop Crack VS 4b 247
158 The Scoop D * 323
159 Discovery HVS 5b 5
160 Detour E2 5c ** 41
161 The Hunter House Road Toad E5 6b 11
162 Clock People E6 6c * 1
163 Watling Street E3 5b * 18
164 By-Pass HVS 5a * 112
165 Great North Road HVS 5a *** 1806
166 Quality Street E5 6b * 3
167 Deaf Dog HVS 5b 16
168 Master Chef f7B ** 11
169 Master Chef Sit-Start
-
V9 6c ** 1
170 Technical Baiter f5 ** 80
171 Technical Master Left-hand f6C *** 90
172 Technical Master f6B *** 434
173 Technical Master One Handed V8 6c 10
  The Embankment
175 Embankment 1 E2 5c ** 501
176 Embankment 1 - First Pitch VS 4c * 592
177 Blind Bat E4 5c ** 29
178 10,000 Maniacs/Elm Street f7C+ ** 2
179 Who Wants the World E5 6a  
180 Embankment 2 VS 4c ** 2171
181 Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only) E1 5c 200
182 Scritto's Republic E7 6c ** 14
183 Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 1693
184 Tip Top f7C *  
185 Time for Tea E3 5c *** 684
186 Tea for Two E4 6a *** 69
187 Time for Tea Original E1 5b *** 246
188 Embankment 4 E1 5b *** 1005
189 Whitehall HVS 5b ** 194
190 The Jasmine Corridor E6 6c * 1
191 Lotto E1 5c * 64
192 Lotto Direct E3 5c * 12
Climb name Grade
193 Little Lotto ArĂȘte f5 ** 191
194 Little Lotto Arete Right f6C *  
195 Seventies Style Wall f6B+ *** 42
196 Handy Pocket
-
V1 5b ** 20
197 Handy Pocket Right
-
V4 6a * 9
198 Green Slab
-
V3 6a * 6
  London Wall
200 Covent Garden VS 4b ** 1393
201 Scruples E5 6b 3
202 Bond Street HVS 5a *** 2162
203 Monopoly E7 6b ** 17
204 Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 1744
205 The Impetus for Stranger Faces E5 5c  
206 White Wall E5 6b *** 81
207 The Mall VS 4c *** 1921
208 London Wall E5 6a *** 123
209 Urban Sprawl E6 6b  
210 Badly Bred E1 5c 6
211 Lambeth Chimney HS 4b * 524
  Keyhole Cave
213 The Metal Rash Traverse f5 * 1
214 Old Kent Road D 20
215 Whitechapel Road HVS 5a * 5
216 Alopecia
-
HVS 5a 10
217 Brittle Road to Freedom E1 5b 3
218 Petticoat Lane HVS 4c * 57
219 Bow Street HVS 4c * 60
220 Metal Rash
-
E1 5b 8
221 Brixton Road VD * 386
222 Ekel
-
S 4a 13
223 Skywalk VS 4b ** 179
224 Luke HVS 4c * 1
225 The Economist E6 6b * 1
226 Adam Smith's Invisible Hand E6 6b ** 10
227 The Rack E5 6a ** 13
228 Oxford Street E3 6b * 68
229 Oxford Street (Lower Crack) * HVS 5a ** 22
230 Littleheath Road E3 5c  
231 Keyhole Traverse 1 f6C *** 6
232 Keyhole Traverse 2 f7A *** 3
233 Keyhole Traverse 3 f7A+ *** 2
234 Keyhole Traverse 4 f7B+ *** 1
235 Piccadilly Circus E2 5c ** 332
236 Coventry Street E5 6b ** 159
237 Jermyn Street E5 6a *** 54
238 Jermyn Street Direct Finish
-
E5 6b  
239 Transmetropolitan E3 5c  
240 Regent Street E2 5c *** 1048
241 Regent Street Direct Start
-
E3 5c * 13
242 Wall Street Crash E5 6b ** 16
243 Shaftesbury Avenue HVS 5b * 221
244 The Whore HVS 5b * 154
245 Gimcrack VS 4c * 581
246 At-a-Cliff
-
HVS 5a 29
247 Wings of Steel E3 5c  
248 Happy Wanderer VS 5a 27
249 Wash and Brush Up E1 6b  
250 Charing Cross Road HVS 5a * 4
251 Oriel VS 5a * 108
252 Keyhole Cops E2 5c  
253 Trio Crack S 4a 12
254 Two Shot Holes f5+ * 32
255 Coventry Street (Lower Crack) * E4 6b ** 6
  Hells Bells
257 Bent Crack HS 4c * 17
258 Piper's Crack VD 3
259 Butter-ess HVS 5b * 23
260 Crossways HVD 19
261 Key's Climb HVS 5a 3
262 Straight Leg VS 4b 1
263 Flared Bottom
-
HVS 5a 3
264 Flank Crack VD 47
265 Chiming Cracks HS 4a * 847
266 Hells Bells HS 4b * 662
267 Juniper E1 5b 38
268 Midrift VD 454
269 Dirty Harry E3 5c *** 2
270 Giant's Steps VD 391
271 Wonderlust E4 6a  
272 Street Legal E2 5c * 130
273 Blood and Guts on Botty Street E5 6b * 22
274 Frond Crack
-
VD 2
275 Crane Fly Climb
-
S 1
276 Helping hands
-
E1 5b 9
277 Annabella Superstella E2 6b 1
278 Wilfred
-
S 4a 21
279 Squeak
-
VS 5b 15
280 Beneath the Pavement Lies the Beach E4 6a  
281 Pip
-
S 4a 10
  The Little Quarry
283 Fireworks
-
V5 6b 2
284 Damage
-
V4 6a 1
285 Halloween
-
V4 6b 1
286 Big Al V0 5a 4
287 Humpty Dumpty
-
E1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83