Climbs 275
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 331m a.s.l
Faces W

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In condition? Leaving the axes at home for a winter ascent of Embankment 2...the way it should be done. © Alex Messenger

Crag features

Quarries are usually depressing holes in the ground, but Millstone is the exception. With smooth walls, soaring grooves and inspiring crack-lines, it is the greatest of all the gritstone quarries. The cracks here span most widths from tips to fist, though luckily there are no dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally done as aid climbs up spidery cracks, the repeated placing of pegs widened them enough to allow access to thin fingers and pointed toes and also to provide protection from wires. Fortunately the climbing here is not just about cracks, there are also many fine corners and aretes formed by the careful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Caves could hardly have been better designed even if a climber had been in charge of the quarrying.

It is worth pointing out that some of the exits can be dangerous where weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarry-men. These 'chest-of-drawers' finishes require care; it is a good idea to place an extra runner or two below the top-out and ensure the second is on-the-ball. Wearing helmets here is a good idea too.

Approach notes

There is an extensive Pay and Display car park (often with in-situ ice-cream van at weekends) just to the east of the Surprise View (a bend on the A625 with a sudden vista of the Hope Valley). Tracks lead out of the northwest corner of this over a ridge into the right-hand end of the quarry.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
a new 10m arête E3 sounds nice - but 3 stars? really? and with 3 pegs, haven't seen them but must be fairly safe and very hard.. was it soloed o/s or after inspection and the pegs being put in? will be interested to see
nickcanute - 07/Oct/15
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Bay
2 Brindle VS 4c 12
3 Scrimsel VS 4c 14
4 Brimstone E2 5b ** 425
5 Satan's Slit HVS 5b * 54
6 Anything is Possible in Cartoons E4 6b  
7 Gates of Mordor E3 5c ** 225
8 Pin Prick E2 5c  
9 Hacklespur HVS 5b * 75
10 Moorland Battleship E5 6a * 1
11 Cauldron Crack E3 5c * 20
12 Freight Train
-
E4 6a * 2
13 Estremo HVS 5a ** 201
14 Gimbals HVS 5b ** 181
15 Mother's Pride E6 6c *** 25
16 London Pride E5 6b ** 7
17 Perplexity E6 6b *** 11
18 Apoplexy E7 6b ** 3
19 Plexity HVS 5a *** 743
20 Remembrance Day VS 4c ** 292
21 Day Dream VS 4c * 66
22 Rainy Day VS 4b 23
23 Southern Comfort E3 5c * 7
24 Commix E2 5c * 53
25 Owzaboutthatthen E4 6b  
26 Top Loader E7 6c *** 4
27 Bohemian Grove f8A **  
28 Drifter E7 6c * 1
29 Saville Street E3 6a *** 143
30 Shape Shifter E6 6b * 4
31 Soho Sally E1 5b * 52
32 Obscurity E6 6b * 1
33 Learn to Forget E6 6b 2
  Little Lower Wall
35 Brigadoon f7B ** 3
36 Salinela Sunset E4 6a 1
37 Fat and Jealous E5 6c  
38 Deceptive Rib f5+ * 1
39 Steady ArĂȘte f5 * 1
  Cioch Bay
41 Slack Alice E1 5c  
42 Bamboozle VS 4c 1
43 Dolorous Gard E2 5b 3
44 Fluted Corner HS 4b 6
45 February Fox E1 5b * 40
46 March Hare E2 5b ** 95
47 April ArĂȘte HVS 4c ** 226
48 Dextrous Hare E3 5c ** 182
49 Dexterity E1 5b ** 1094
50 Cioch Corner S 4a 247
51 Mayday HVS 5a * 431
52 Supra Direct HVS 5b * 491
53 The Hacker VS 4c * 235
54 Close Shave S 4a * 503
55 Boomerang S 4a * 403
56 Cioch Diagonal
-
HVD 26
57 Brumal Direct HVS 5b 2
58 Brumal VS 4c 84
59 Straight Jacket E5 6b  
60 Eskimo Blue Day
-
VS 4c 8
61 Cornerstone Climb
-
HS 4a 29
62 Shamrot S 4a 2
63 Only Just E2 5b * 132
64 Eartha HS 4a ** 1033
65 Slime Crime E4 6a  
66 Bowling Green
-
VD * 26
67 F.A.T.D. HS 4a * 52
68 Rough Puff
-
HS 4b 10
69 Flaky Pastry
-
HS 4b 17
70 Sudden Impact E1 5b  
71 Dune Flake VS 4a 4
72 Dune Crack VS 4a 1
73 The Pittsburgh Enigma E4 5c 1
74 Wuthering Crack HVS 5a 13
75 Evening Premiere HVS 5a * 29
76 Evening Premiere Direct Finish E1 5b 3
77 Creaking Corner HS 4b 4
78 Crumbling Corner HS 4a 3
  Great Slab
80 Crumbling Cracks HS 4a 3
81 The Snake HVS 5a 2
82 Svelt HVS 5a * 585
83 Gibbering Heap of Puss E3 5c 1
84 Velvet E2 5c 5
85 The Psycho Path E6 6b *  
86 The Snivelling Shit E5 6a ** 163
87 Techno Prisoners E5 6b 1
88 Election Special E3 6a * 9
89 The Moronic Chippings VS 4a 193
90 The Great Slab HS 4b ** 1526
91 Dino E4 6b 6
92 Sex Dwarves f6B+ ** 74
93 Lorica VS 4c ** 231
94 Bun Run HVS 5a 24
95 Cake Walk S 4a 28
96 WindrĂȘte E2 5b ** 80
Climb name Grade
  Twikker Area
98 Breeze Mugger E5 6b 2
99 Meeze Brugger E5 6b * 6
100 Eros E1 5b ** 507
101 Frank Sinatra Bows Out E5 6b  
102 Acheron VS 4c  
103 Mean to Me HVS 5b 1
104 Lyons Corner House Direct HVS 5a ** 381
105 African E3 6a **  
106 Erbivore E5 6b  
107 Lyons Corner House HVS 5a *** 838
108 Erb E2 5c *** 505
109 Twikker E3 5c *** 216
110 Lubric HVS 5b * 20
111 The Bed of Procustes f8A+ ***  
112 Pinstone Street E2 5c * 73
113 Grist to the Mill E4 6a * 2
114 Diamond Groove HVS 5b 17
115 Shady Wall VS 4c  
116 Helliconia Spring HVS 5a  
117 Black Crack S 4a 4
118 Optimus E1 5a 1
119 Flapjack VS 4b * 204
120 Neatfeet HVS 5a * 57
121 SSS VS 4c * 83
122 Winter's Grip E6 6b ** 8
123 Keelhaul VS 4c 48
124 Crusty Corner S 4a 6
125 Quiddity HVS 5a * 73
126 Findus HVS 5b 1
127 Billingsgate E1 5b ** 570
128 Sea Creature E4 6a  
129 Piledriver E3 5c  
130 Mopsy VD 1
131 Rotten Row VD 1
  Green Death
133 Nib Nob HVS 5b 8
134 Stone Dri E2 6a * 78
135 Crewcut VS 4c ** 269
136 Yourolympus HVS 4c 17
137 Myolympus HVS 5b 7
138 King Ellmore E6 6a * 5
139 Xanadu E1 5b ** 25
140 Under Doctor's Orders E2 6a * 48
141 Jealous Pensioner E4 5c * 78
142 Xanadu Direct E3 5c ** 22
143 The Trumpton Anarchist E5 6c 2
144 Adios Amigo E5 6b ** 2
145 Cherry Bank Road f7A *  
146 Great West Road E3 5b *** 264
147 Edge Lane E5 5c *** 135
148 Green Death E5 5c *** 55
149 Green Death Left-Hand Start V3 11
150 Green Death Start f6C *** 58
151 Green Death Superdirect f7B *** 15
152 The Master's Edge E7 6c *** 54
153 Pure Now E9 6c *  
154 The Bad and the Beautiful E6 6c *** 15
155 Great ArĂȘte E5 5c *** 20
  Great North Road
157 Stranger in Paradise E5 6a  
158 Knightsbridge E2 5c *** 542
159 Scoop Crack VS 4b 282
160 The Scoop D * 378
161 Clock People E6 6c * 1
162 Watling Street E3 5b * 20
163 Discovery HVS 5b 14
164 Detour E2 5c ** 56
165 The Hunter House Road Toad E5 6b 12
166 By-Pass HVS 5a * 124
167 Great North Road HVS 5a *** 2103
168 Quality Street E5 6b * 4
169 Deaf Dog HVS 5b 17
170 Master Chef f7B ** 14
171 Master Chef Sit-start
-
V9 ** 1
172 Technical Baiter f5 ** 93
173 Technical Master Left f6C *** 107
174 Technical Master f6B *** 511
175 Technical Master One Handed V8 11
  The Embankment
177 Blind Bat E4 5c ** 35
178 Embankment 1 E2 5c ** 538
179 Embankment 1 - First Pitch VS 4c * 755
180 Elm Street f7C+ ** 2
181 Who Wants the World E5 6a 1
182 Embankment 2 VS 4c ** 2519
183 Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-hand Crack Only) E1 5c 245
184 Scritto's Republic E7 6c ** 18
185 Embankment 3 E1 5b *** 1959
186 Tip Top f7C *  
187 Time for Tea E3 5c *** 802
188 Tea for Two E4 6a *** 74
189 Time for Tea Original E1 5b *** 285
190 Embankment 4 E1 5b *** 1193
191 Whitehall HVS 5b ** 233
192 The Jasmine Corridor E6 6c * 1
Climb name Grade
193 Lotto Direct E3 5c * 12
194 Lotto E1 5c * 71
195 Little Lotto ArĂȘte f5 ** 231
196 Little Lotto ArĂȘte Right f6C * 11
197 Seventies Style Wall f6B+ *** 53
  London Wall
199 Covent Garden VS 4b ** 1667
200 Scruples E5 6b 6
201 Bond Street HVS 5a *** 2583
202 Monopoly E7 6b ** 18
203 Great Portland Street HVS 5b *** 2058
204 The Impetus for Stranger Faces E5 5c  
205 White Wall E5 6b *** 109
206 The Mall VS 4c *** 2291
207 London Wall E5 6a *** 163
208 Urban Sprawl E6 6b  
209 Badly Bred E1 5c 7
210 Lambeth Chimney HS 4b * 627
  Keyhole Cave
212 The Metal Rash Traverse f5 * 7
213 Old Kent Road D 20
214 Whitechapel Road HVS 5a * 6
215 Alopecia
-
HVS 5a 10
216 Brittle Road to Freedom E1 5b 4
217 Petticoat Lane HVS 4c * 59
218 Bow Street HVS 4c * 62
219 Metal Rash
-
E1 5b 9
220 Brixton Road VD * 431
221 Ekel
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S 4a 14
222 Skywalk VS 4b ** 209
223 Luke HVS 4c * 2
224 The Economist E6 6b * 1
225 Adam Smith's Invisible Hand E6 6b ** 11
226 Stretch Marks E6 6b ** 1
227 The Rack E5 6a ** 13
228 Oxford Street E3 6b * 75
229 Oxford Street (Lower Crack) HVS 5a ** 30
230 Littleheath Road E3 5c 1
231 Keyhole Traverse 1 f6C *** 11
232 Keyhole Traverse 2 f7A *** 5
233 Keyhole Traverse 3 f7A+ *** 3
234 Keyhole Traverse 4 f7B+ *** 1
235 Piccadilly Circus E2 5c ** 386
236 Coventry Street E5 6b ** 174
237 Coventry Street (Lower Crack) E4 6b ** 18
238 Jermyn Street E5 6a *** 65
239 Jermyn Street Direct Finish
-
E5 6b  
240 Transmetropolitan E3 5c  
241 Regent Street E2 5c *** 1241
242 Regent Street Direct Start
-
E3 6a * 16
243 Wall Street Crash E5 6b ** 19
244 Shaftesbury Avenue HVS 5b * 271
245 The Whore HVS 5b * 168
246 Gimcrack VS 4c * 674
247 At-a-Cliff
-
HVS 5a 30
248 Wings of Steel E3 5c  
249 Happy Wanderer VS 5a 28
250 Wash and Brush Up E1 6b  
251 Charing Cross Road HVS 5a * 5
252 Oriel VS 5a * 119
253 Keyhole Cops E2 5c  
254 Trio Crack S 4a 15
255 Two Shot Holes f5+ * 33
  Hells Bells
257 Bent Crack HS 4c * 21
258 Piper's Crack VD 4
259 Butter-ess HVS 5b * 33
260 Crossways HVD 27
261 Key's Climb HVS 5a 3
262 Straight Leg VS 4b 1
263 Flared Bottom
-
HVS 5a 4
264 Flank Crack VD 55
265 Chiming Cracks HS 4a * 997
266 Hells Bells HS 4b * 794
267 Juniper E1 5b 49
268 Midrift VD 544
269 Dirty Harry E3 5c *** 4
270 Giant's Steps VD 464
271 Wonderlust E4 6a 1
272 Street Legal E2 5c * 146
273 Blood and Guts on Botty Street E5 6b * 27
274 Frond Crack
-
VD 4
275 Crane Fly Climb
-
S 4
276 Helping Hands
-
E1 5b 11
277 Annabella Superstella E2 6b 2
278 Wilfred
-
S 4a 24
279 Squeak
-
VS 5b 16
280 Beneath the Pavement Lies the Beach E4 6a  
281 Pip
-
S 4a 12
  The Little Quarry
283 Fireworks
-
V5 2
284 Damage
-
V4 1
285 Halloween
-
V4 1
286 Big Al V0 4
287 Humpty Dumpty
-
E1 5b  

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