Climbs 32
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces W

Eastville Wide View © DaveX

Crag features

Couple of crops of sandstone offering lots of Eliminate Problems on its rather featured faces. Located along the River Frome running though Eastville park. RIVERSIDE SECTION: Crag consists of a few slabs and aretes starting at roughly 3.5m rising up to roughly 6-7m as the face leads to a small cave/tunnel and overhang over the river, which leads to another face which isn't as solid as the right hand face (You can also walk along the top of the crag to access the left hand side). The majority of the rock to the right of the cave has been cleaned, but the crag does seem to get dirty after heavy rains. The faces feature some nice crimps, pockets, pinches and some huge jugs along with the odd decent sloper, often all close together enough to offer easier and harder versions of the same lines. Some of the smaller ledges are a little 'soft' so caution is advised when choosing what to pull on, although these are few and most are obvious. Landings: Its pretty close to the river so you may run the risk of getting wet. The ground under the first shorter face is quite angled right at the base so a decent spotter is advised, also in the first corner under the 'Pocket Billiards' project is a pretty big rock. After that the landing levels out up until the cave mouth, but its fairly thin and the problems get fairly highball/solo above it so again, spotter advised. Topouts: Easy above the shorter slab and the face above the first arete is blocked top centre by an overhanging tree but it is possible to move either left or right topout. Apart from that not bad up until the crack in the second corner in. Above that there is a root but its looking half dead so be careful. SICK TREE SLAB: Very soft landings on leaf-fall but currently topouts are filthy and rather spikey due to holly bushes.

Approach notes

Right by the river in a public park so please be respectful and keep the noise down, clean up your mess, make an effort and clean up any chalk, tickmarks etc. Walk though the park (either from the entrance by Muller Road or the other end on Broom Hill, (Snuff Mills carpark is very near) to the weir and footbridge and theres an obvious dirtpath to the right that leads towards the crags, turn left for the RIVERSIDE SECTION & right towards SICK TREE SLAB. Easily seen from the footpath so being respectful is a must, all recent encounters with locals have been friendly though it must be said. May be times of the year the Warden may ask you to not climb, due to roosting bats or nesting waterfowl, if so please be respectful and leave and please let us know here so we can update. Thank you.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

'The Tragic Tale of The Fair Somnambulist of Wickham Court' is about 3 metres to the left of Crocker's route. Weir Wall routes are above the weir and self explanatory from the given descriptions.
Mark Davies PK - 01/Feb/15
Whoevers been adding the new routes could you email me with some more details please, Think the route you've listed on the overhang over the water has been already claimed by m. Crocker, also they may already be some stuff on this new 'weir buttress', hard to tell without some info to go on.
Steve nevers - 01/Feb/15
The small aretes, faces and corners on the downstream side of the crag are all quite pleasant little routes ranging from Diff up to VS.
Mark Davies PK - 07/Dec/14
There are some seriously weird grades here: V3 5a, V2 4c, V1 4b etc simply don't exist!
Mark Davies PK - 04/Nov/14
Went down today, main eliminate section is very dirty on the left hand side, but to the right is clean and dry. Top outs are soft and muddy, with the trees depositing lots of slime and mud on the top quarter of all climbs. Cleaned up most of the holds on the 'Pocket' wall but too wet at the top so left those. Good fun though, some nice traversing and mini problems in good condition.
ianlaw - 01/Mar/14
Revised some of the grades as I personally think i'd over graded them.
Steve nevers - 17/Nov/13
Cleaned up a new section of rock and added some new hard powerful problems to it. Both are somewhere between F6C & F7A so current grades are roughly til they see a repeat.
Steve nevers - 08/Jul/13
Polite request to whoever climbed here on the 30th/31st of May, DO NOT leave huge chalkmarks and graffiti on the rock.
Steve nevers - 02/Jun/13
Added a couple of little problems today, both share the same interesting mantle but one adds in a few moves of reachy traverse to help you be a little pumped by the time you make it. ;) Investigated a few other promising lines as well, but rain stopped play.
Steve nevers - 29/Apr/13
Less ambitious -Trogs travesty? Low level traverse this afternoon left to right using big ledges etc. Start at the left end of the cave and traverse out just above the river. It gets a bit tricky bridging the cave but jugs are there. Stayed low on wall after passing cave -prob crux -then moving up and down fairly easily. Took rests etc. Not good at boulder grades. Old and trad only so about 4b. Will find someone to hold a rope and go back and do some cleaning next week. Did most of the obvious corners and faces trad style about 20 years ago. Loving your enthusiasm.
leland stamper - 26/Apr/13
No worries Dave, was a good session, lots more there as well! @Ireland stamper: Can you remember your start+finish? Sounds like you might have done the proposed project 'Troglodyte's Traverse'!
Steve nevers - 26/Apr/13
Cheers to Steve for showing me around the crag, will be some fun to be had here for after work and weekend sessions. Looks to have potential for a good few more decent routes, and is a good place to get your psyche on for some easy highball stuff. Look forward to getting back down there.
DaveX - 26/Apr/13
Great to see this. Have messed around on this outcrop a few times over the years. Did a low level traverse from one end to other at about severe.
leland stamper - 26/Apr/13
Gave this a clean recently and have been having a little bit of fun with some people and we've put a few problems up on it. Quite likely someones climbed this before but couldn't find any info online. Feel free to contact me if you think we've repeated anything you may have done.
Steve nevers - 26/Apr/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  LEFT HAND OF CAVE
2 Trog's Travesty S 5b 2
3 Cleaned Before Breakfast MS 3c 2
4 Poor boy's peapod left S 3a * 3
5 Madiba S 3b *** 3
6 Paige VS 4c 3
7 Fill Yer Boots HVS 4c 1
8 Yer mum's boyfriend MVS 4b 3
  Riverside Section
10 The Tragic Tale of The Fair Somnambulist of Wickham Court HVS 4c * 6
11 Raise the costaconcordia * E3 5b ** 1
  RIGHT HAND OF CAVE
13 Troglodyte's Traverse V3 5a 9
14 Rufus V3 5b 9
15 Tommy MS 3c 4
16 Ain't Got Time For Crisps V1 5a 7
17 Tyrone V1 4b 16
18 I Smoke Rocks V2 5a 8
19 Pocket Rocket V1 4b * 14
20 Pocket Billiards V1 4b 9
21 Tickling the Exit Wound V3 6a 9
22 Wyld Stallyns V1 4b 11
23 Easy Pull V0- 3b 11
24 Wild Garlic V0- 3b 10
25 Deathexplosion V3 6b ** 1
26 Dave's Dyno V2 5c 9
27 Mo-Selector V0+ 4b 11
28 Stick It Out V1 4c 7
29 Magical Pig V2 4c 7
  Sick Tree Slab
31 Les Querelle Des Monstres V5 f6c * 1
32 Swim With The Crayfishes V5 f6b+ ** 1
  Weir Wall
34 Alma VD 5
35 Mater S 4b 3
36 Weir Wall D 3
37 Weir Wall Variations HS 4c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Steve nevers