Climbs 43
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 835m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Effort Face © WillDC

Crag features

A closely-packed set of routes running steeply up the side of a rocky ravine. The ravine is called the Barranco de los Molinos. The routes are well protected and tend to be steep, strenuous and fingery. As is so often the case with out-of-the-way locations, the grades here can seem on the harsh side. The angle of the rock and sharpness of the holds don't help; be prepared to drop your sights a little or get beaten up. Climbers who operate in the 6s and low 7s and who enjoy technical faces should find enough climbing for a good day’s sport here. Many of the climbs have their names painted on the rock or stamped on the first bolt bracket.

The cliff faces north west and thus only gets the sun quite late on in the day, because of this it can be a rather cool venue in the winter. Early in the day it provides a shady retreat in hotter weather. There is often a breeze blowing down the Barranco which helps keep things cool when the heat is on and makes conditions bitter when the weather is cold!

Approach notes

Ibi is best approached from the A-7 motorway which runs from Alicante towards Alcoi. From the south, leave at junction 34 and drive into the town. Turn right at the first traffic lights onto the main street and follow this past a roundabout and some traffic lights to another set of traffic lights by a petrol station. There is no left turn here but overshoot the junction then do a U-turn to get onto the correct road. Drive down here until a right turn signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'. About 1km after leaving the town there is a right turn, just before the second bridge, and just beyond a ‘no overtaking’ sign. Drive down the track past a red ‘probihut fer foc’ sign and park on the right after 100m. Leave nothing in the car. 

From the north, leave the A-7 at junction 40 and head straight into the town. This takes you to the junction above by the petrol station.

Walk to the mill and climb steps just in front of it to reach the base of the crag. Scramble up the slope to find the object of your desire - and some flat ground!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Peña Almarra - Barranco De Los Molinos
2 Woldan 7a  
3 Búho 5c * 4
4 Chinto fano 6a+ * 3
5 Carlo y bruña 7b  
6 Stalak 5a 1
7 Rompe dedos 7b  
8 Mediterráneo Free 7a * 2
9 Bacalao de Bilbao 7a+ *  
10 El vira 7b *  
11 Route 10 7a  
12 La traverse de les figúrese 6a+  
13 La chica yeye 7b+ *  
14 Variante Pontect 4a *  
15 Pontect 6c * 1
Climb name Grade
16 No name dos
17 La cegaste Burlan Castor 8a  
18 Bon perfil 7b *  
19 Intron 'A' 7a *  
20 Paranoia 6c  
21 Viril os 6c *  
22 Pico nata 6a+ * 1
23 Que potiti 6c+  
24 Figurita 6a 1
25 Vaya marrón 6c  
26 Tela con la Paula 6c  
27 Artero no seas duro 7a  
28 Licencia para matar 6c+  
29 Maldita hepatitis 6b+ * 1
30 Linda bonita 6b * 2
Climb name Grade
31 No te inquietes un 7 6b+ 1
32 Uhele a bacalao 6b *  
33 Show de yemas 6b+ ** 8
34 Chorizo Bailaran 6a+ ** 6
35 Capullos en flor 6a 5
36 H.M.T. 6b 7
37 Hola mi Belén 6a ** 5
38 Taifons S2 6a+ 8
39 Hipermania 6a * 9
40 Mama ya lo sabe 5a * 9
41 Ali Baba 6a * 12
42 Leiva show 5c * 9
43 Las pelotas rosas 5a 6
44 Luz solar 5c 6

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