Climbs 90
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 605m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

A large collection of granite tors in the forest. Mainly bolted slabs but there are a few trad crack lines. Bolts are generally carrots, so bring hangers.

Approach notes

Taken from http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/black-hill

Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.

Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.

There are two entry points into the reserve. The

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mushroom Rock
2 No Sweat 18  
3 Snakes and Ladders 19 *  
4 Pull the Ripcord 16 *  
5 Maximillian Lion Heart 28 **  
6 Ultra Violet 23 *  
7 Los Andes 18  
  The Monolith Area
9 Shredded Evidence 17  
10 Hard Shit 22  
11 The New Purgatory 20  
12 Bolts on Granite Slab 21  
13 Bolts on Granite Slab II 21  
14 Go Dog Go 16  
15 Jaws 17  
16 Sharks Fin Soup 17  
17 Three Moves to Glory 22  
18 Romper Stomper 25 *  
19 Large Format 20  
20 Access Crack
-
14  
21 Static Relief
-
20 * 1
22 Porking in Paradise 21  
23 Penetration 21  
24 Cruising for Meat 17 *  
25 Four-eyed and Bumless
-
21 *  
26 Four-eyed and Bumless Direct Finish
-
21 *  
  Milawa Area
28 Squeal Like a Pig 21 *  
29 Bolt Like a Bush Pig 21 *  
30 Work the Meat 20 *  
31 Fear of a Black Planet 20 *  
32 Koala Bare 17  
33 Thin Ice 18  
34 Milawa 17 ** 1
35 Rough Diamond 18 ** 1
36 Greenpiece 22  
37 Frogs Hollow 10 *  
38 Touch and Go 17  
39 Scratch and Sniff 20 ** 2
40 Incremental 23 *  
41 Toxic Shock and Razorblades 26 *  
42 Gumboot Diplomacy 23 *  
43 Havoc 24 *  
44 The Cult Master 24  
45 Anguish 27 **  
46 Acid Rain 25  
  Eastern Lookout Area
48 Wuss in Boots 23 **  
49 Dicky Knees Dihedral 21 *  
50 The Malmsbury Kid 25  
51 Panda-monium 17  
52 Russells Mega Route 16  
53 Like a Virgin
-
16  
54 NO 11 YKK (The BIG Zipper)
-
M6  
55 Sticky Fingers 18  
56 Palpating Palms 20  
57 Half Man Crack
-
25 *  
58 Half Man Half Biscuit
-
17 * 1
59 Pumping Ugly Muscle 25  
60 Bon Voyage 25 *  
61 Ugly Voyage 26 *  
62 Barefoot and Pregnant 18 * 1
63 Sink the Sausage 18 *  
64 Long Sausage 18 1
65 Long Neck Stubbies 16 * 2
66 Deceit 14 * 2
67 Castel Vlad 18  

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