Climbs 58
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

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FA of "Thousand Yard Stare" (1100m VS), Pen Bilis, Ceredigion © Dave Williams

Crag features

A great location on the headland just north of Llangrannog, featuring some good climbs on mostly sound hard sandstone. Expect some loose rock especially near the tops. Most routes are worthwhile. Great ones to try are Jim Bowen's Love Child (HS), Frilious (VS), Ghost Machine (E1), Fields of Fire (E1).

There is one stake above Wild Walks Buttress. Narayan Ghale buttress has little in the way of obvious placements to arrange an abseil/belay so take care.

***Please read and adhere to access and restriction notes set out below***

Approach notes

** The headland is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The area is also an SSSI.

There is a formally agreed seasonal restriction on the three routes Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge on

Access Advice

A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of  belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.

Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/

A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

  1. Narayan Ghale Buttress:   No climbing on the extreme southern end of the buttress between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting herring gulls. Principally this affects the following rock climbs only: Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge. All other climbs further north on Narayan Ghale Buttress - from and including Dead Man Walking - are unaffected by this seasonal restriction.
  2. Ynys Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs south of the Topple Blocks Area on the east side of the island between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting birds. Additionally, climbers are strongly advised to avoid climbing in the Topple Blocks Area itself during this period if their presence causes any unnecessary disturbance to nesting birds on the seasonally restricted cliffs 100 metres to the south.
  3. Pentrwyn Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs between the Ynys Lochtyn low tide scramble descent path and Traeth yr Ynys on the East side of the headland between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting choughs. (To date, this area has not been developed for climbing due to loose rock and cliff instability and for this reason, future development is extremely unlikely. This seasonal restriction is therefore for precautionary purposes only.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ynys Lochtyn Approach Path
2 Mur Marwdai XS 5a 2
  Wild Card Buttress
4 High Hopes
-
HS 4b 1
5 Shale I Greet the Reaper? XS 5b 1
6 Virgin on the Abyss
-
HVS 4b 2
7 Iceman and the Blue Moon Virgin
-
VS 4b 1
8 Bi-Curious Mermaid
-
E1 5b * 1
  Wild Walks Buttress
10 Head Space
-
E1 5a *  
11 Traed Mewn Cyffion
-
HS 4b  
12 The Wave Keeper
-
HS 4a 4
13 Double D D 3
14 Cam ar ol Cam
-
VS 4b 3
15 Feral Pedestrian S 4a 5
16 Vertigo Games
-
E1 5a * 3
17 Tiger Feet HVS 4c * 2
18 Wild Walking VD 3
19 Mild Stalking HS 4b  
20 Curb Crawler
-
S 4a 1
21 Lizardesque S 4a 3
22 Jaywalking
-
E2 5c * 1
Climb name Grade
23 Twenty Pounds Lighter VS 4b  
24 Gavin Cooper
-
VD 1
25 Walk This Way
-
VD 1
  Keith Murray Buttress
27 Lickerish HS 4a 1
28 Lonesome Dwarf D 2
29 Countdown to Bilko VS 4b 2
30 Keith Murray HS 4b * 9
31 E Double VD * 7
32 Redman VD 4
  Sisnu Pangma Face
34 Slug Matador VD 2
35 Halo of Flies E1 5b * 3
36 Sisnu Pangma E3 5b * 1
37 Jally-Mally Chimney (Bilis Blowhole) HS 4b 4
38 Jim Bowen's Love Child HS 3
39 Gobbledegook S  
  Narayan Ghale Buttress
41 Stanley Unwin
-
VD 2
42 Hobo Chang Ba
-
HVS 4c 1
43 Resham Firiri
-
HVS 4c * 1
44 Narayan Ghale
-
E2 5b * 3
Climb name Grade
45 Paan Ko Paat
-
E1 5b 1
46 Ratto Ghallo (Bilious) D 1
47 Frilious
-
VS 4b * 3
48 Chwarae 'fo Tan
-
HVS 4c **  
49 Farokh Engineer
-
VS 4c * 1
50 Dan Gleeballs
-
VS 4c * 4
51 Stranger from a Secret Land
-
VS 4c  
52 Bilis Manger VS 4c *  
53 Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang
-
VS 4b  
54 Sextravaganja
-
E1 5a 1
55 Ain't No Sunshine
-
E3 6a * 4
56 Ghost Machine
-
E1 5a ** 4
57 Fields of Fire
-
E1 5b ** 3
58 Dead Man Walking
-
E2 6a *  
59 Sherry Party
-
VS 4c  
60 Bargain Hunt
-
D  
61 Bica Ridge
-
D 1
62 Shale Shampler
-
VD 1
63 Antur Fach
-
VD 1
  Traeth Bilis
65 Thousand Yard Stare VS 2

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