Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 5m a.s.l
FA of "Thousand Yard Stare" (1100m VS), Pen Bilis, Ceredigion © Dave Williams
A great location on the headland just north of Llangrannog, featuring some good climbs on mostly sound hard sandstone. Expect some loose rock especially near the tops. Most routes are worthwhile. Great ones to try are Jim Bowen's Love Child (HS), Frilious (VS), Ghost Machine (E1), Fields of Fire (E1).
There is one stake above Wild Walks Buttress. Narayan Ghale buttress has little in the way of obvious placements to arrange an abseil/belay so take care.
***Please read and adhere to access and restriction notes set out below***
** The headland is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The area is also an SSSI.
There is a formally agreed seasonal restriction on the three routes Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge on
A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.
Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/
A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
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