UKC

Climbs 500
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1964m a.s.l
Faces all

Approaching Storm: TimS Searches for Soul Slinger V9. Owens River Valley, California. © ChrisJD

Crag features

World-class bouldering venue with something for everyone. The quartz-monzonite rock is hard on the fingertips.

Approach notes

No problems - see the Bishop Bouldering Guide for more info re wild camping etc

If you want world class bouldering with the finest weather imaginable, GET YOURSELF HERE!!! The best times to go are March-Early May or Late Sept-November if you want to climb in Shorts/T-shirt. Winter months can be very cold and alot of the mountain roads are closed due to snow. The Buttermilks are at 6500ft but rarely get much snow. Take warm gear for the night times though, it gets really cold! Bishop is the place to stay but not much in the way of nightlife. Whiskey Creek Bar is about as good as it gets but happy hour food is a bargain (5-7pm) and very very good! North Western Airlines is probably the cheapest way to travel, only cost 165 each return. You have to transfer at Miniapolis and fly into LAX then a 270 mile drive to Bishop. A hire car is essential as there is no public transport in the area. The roads to the crags (happy/sad boulders and Buttermilks) are all dirt tracks but can easily be used by a normal car. If you don't have a bouldering mat or are considering buying another, BUY IT IN BISHOP! Wilsons Eastside Sports has a very good climbing dept and everything is less than half the price of the uk. You can pick up Metolius Cheap Bastard mats for less than 50! Rock shoes and everything else are a bargain too. Food is what you would expect from the states, massive portions and very cheap! Hope this info is useful. This place is so good I'm buying a house here! Nuff said. Steve
TheNorthernOne - 25/Dec/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  ---BUTTERMILKS MAIN---
  Birthday Boulders
3 Birthday Mantel
-
V0 ** 17
4 The Way Down
-
V0 11
5 Birthday Boulders #10 - Unnamed
-
V3 2
6 The Prow sit start
-
V2 * 31
7 The Prow standing start
-
V1 8
8 Birthday Left
-
V0 *** 44
9 Birthday Left SDS into Birthday Direct
-
V3 * 2
10 Birthday Direct
-
V3 *** 36
11 Birthday Skyline
-
V3 *** 11
12 Birthday Boulder #? - Birthday Boulder SDS
-
VB 2
  The Loaf
14 The Loaf #19 - Unnamed
-
V0 3
15 The Rising
-
V4 ** 9
16 Naan Bread
-
V4 * 6
17 Yeast V3 ** 1
18 Sheepherder
-
V2 *** 18
19 Dough Boy
-
V3 * 2
  Stained Glass Boulder
21 Stained Glass
-
V10 *** 2
  Five and Dime Boulders
23 Five and Dime Right
-
V0 * 2
24 Five and Dime
-
V1 ** 7
25 Five and Dime Left
-
V0 4
  Bun Boulder
27 Bun Boulder #1 - Unnamed
-
V0 1
28 Bun Boulder #2 - Unnamed
-
V0 1
  Big Wall Boulder
30 Big Wall
-
V1 *  
31 Big Mantel
-
V4 *  
  Fly Boy Boulder
33 The Fall Guy
-
V9 ***  
34 Haroun and the Sea of Stories
-
V12 ***  
35 Fly Boy Arete V5 ** 11
36 Fly Boy
-
V6 ** 5
37 Fly Boy Sit-start
-
V8 *** 6
38 Fly Boy Boulder #22
-
V0 * 1
39 Fly Boy Boulder #23
-
V3 * 2
  Scoop Boulder
41 Scoop
-
V2 *  
42 Erosion
-
V1 *  
  North Boulder
44 East Side Story
-
V3 ** 1
45 Larger than Life
-
V3 **  
  Pope's Hat Boulder
47 Pope's Roof
-
V6 *  
48 Pope's Problem a.k.a. No Girlfriend
-
V4 *  
  Boy and Girl Rocks
50 Boy and Girl Rocks #12
-
V0 2
51 Boy and Girl Rocks #13
-
V1 7
52 Boy and Girl Rocks #15
-
V4 * 5
53 Boy and Girl Rocks #16 V1 * 9
54 Patina V0 * 11
55 Patina Right Finish
-
V1 3
  Ranger Rock
57 Ranger Rock #1 V3 * 3
58 Ranger Rock #2
-
V5 * 1
59 Rail Problem
-
V5 ** 1
60 Ranger Rock #6
-
V2 ** 6
61 Ranger Rock #7
-
V0 * 6
62 Ranger Rock #8
-
V6 1
63 Ranger Rock #9
-
V2 5
64 Ranger Rock #10
-
V1 3
65 Ranger Rock #11
-
V0 4
66 Ranger Rock #12
-
V0 7
67 Ranger Rock #13
-
V2 6
  The Hero Roof Boulder
69 Groovy Grit V1 1
70 Dishy Grit V6 ** 2
71 Easy Grit
-
V5 ** 3
72 Rib Direct Sit Start
-
V7 * 1
73 Rib, No Rib
-
V1 * 5
74 Rib, No Rib, Sit
-
V6 * 3
75 Hero Roof
-
V0 *** 47
76 Unamed Slab
-
V0- * 12
  Iron Man Boulder
78 Iron Man
-
V4 *** 62
79 Iron Fly
-
V9 *** 3
  The Hagar Boulder
81 Hager Boulder #1
-
V0 2
82 Hager Arete
-
V0 ** 4
83 Hager Face
-
V4  
84 Unnamed Arete
-
V0 2
85 Hager Boulder #5
-
VB ** 2
  Golden Boulder
87 Glass Slab
-
V0 ** 1
  The Grovel Roof
89 Grovel Roof
-
V3 *  
  The Twins
91 The Twins #16 - Unnamed
-
VB ** 4
92 The Twins #17 - Unnamed
-
V0 * 2
93 The Twins #20 - Unnamed V0 2
  The Bowling Pin
95 Original Line V3 ** 2
96 Bowling Pin
-
V4 *** 16
97 Bowling Pin Sit Start
-
V6 *** 11
98 Ten Pin Trial
-
V8 ** 1
  Tut Boulder
100 Tut Boulder #13 - Unnamed
-
V1 5
101 Tut Boulder #14 - Unnamed
-
V0 7
102 Tut Boulder #15 - Unnamed
-
V0 8
103 Milk the Milks V6 ** 10
104 Egypt (no crack)
-
V3 * 5
105 Egypt (crack)
-
V0 4
106 Wimberries V4 * 1
107 King Tut
-
V3 *** 36
108 Funky Tut
-
V3 *** 36
109 Ay
-
V1 ** 10
110 Howard Carter
-
V0 * 6
111 Howard Carter sit start V6 * 1
112 Tut Crack Left
-
V5 * 1
113 Tut Crack
-
V3 * 3
114 Lululator V4 ** 2
115 Tut Boulder #30 - Unnamed V2 * 4
  Corner Boulder
117 Corner Boulders #4 V0- * 4
118 Corner Boulders #5 V0 * 8
119 Corner Boulders #6
-
V1 3
120 Corner Boulders #? - Unnamed
-
V0 1
  Leary/Bard Boulder
122 Hobbs' Problem
-
V2 ** 10
123 Leary/Bard Arete
-
V5 *** 18
  Buttermilk Stem Boulder
125 Buttermilk Stem Boulder #7 - Unnamed V2 3
126 Buttermilk Stem
-
V1 *** 42
Climb name Grade
127 Buttermilk Stem Sit
-
V4 *** 11
  Rowell Boulder
129 Buttermilk Gem
-
V1 *  
130 Junior's Arete
-
V1 **  
131 Junior's Achievement
-
V8 ** 4
132 Mooned
-
V9 **  
133 Rowell Face
-
V1 **  
  Pothole Boulder
135 Pothole Traverse
-
V1  
136 Pothole Direct
-
V0  
  Upper Cave Boulder
138 Upper Cave Boulder #1 - Unnamed
-
V2  
  Cave Boulder
140 Pain Grain Sit Start
-
V7 ** 4
141 Cave Route
-
V6 11
142 Shelter from the Storm V5 8
143 Inner Sanctum
-
V2 9
144 Gleaming the Cube V8 * 1
145 Gleaming the Cube (high start)
-
V6 4
  Fit Homeless Boulder
147 Fit Homeless Boulder #4 - unnamed
-
V0- ** 2
148 Fit Homeless Boulder #4 - unnamed (sit start)
-
V1 3
149 Fit Homeless Boulder #5 - unnamed
-
V0 ** 3
150 Fit Homeless Boulder #6 - unnamed
-
V0- ** 3
151 Fit Homeless Boulder #7 - unnamed
-
V0 ** 3
  Soul Slinger Boulders
153 Soul Slinger V9 *** 6
  Robinson's Rubber-Tester Slab
155 Robinson's Rubber Tester
-
V0 ** 11
  Xenolith Boulder
157 Heavy Grit
-
V7 *  
  Roadside Boulder
159 Roadside Highball
-
V3 *** 3
160 Roadside Boulder #8
-
V4 2
161 The Rail Problem
-
V3 ** 12
162 Roadside Boulder #10 V0 * 7
163 Roadside Boulder #12 V3 ** 1
164 Roadside Boulder #13 V1 * 3
165 Roadside Boulder #16 V1 1
  Eyes Boulder
167 Eyes Boulder #19 - Unnamed
-
V0- 1
  Grandpa Peabody
169 Cave Problem V4 ** 9
170 Lucid Dreaming
-
V15  
171 Evilution
-
V12 ***  
172 Evilution Direct
-
V11 ***  
173 Evilution To The Lip
-
V10 ** 1
174 Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8 2
  Peewee
176 Peewee #20 - Unnamed
-
V3  
  Grandma Peabody
178 East Arete
-
5.10a 1
179 Baburre
-
V12 **  
180 Essential Peabody
-
V0 *** 15
181 Slipstream
-
V4 * 4
182 North Face Direct
-
V2 ** 4
183 Center Direct
-
V10 **  
184 Direction
-
V13 **  
185 Magnetic North
-
V8 *** 1
186 Go Granny Ho
-
V7 3
187 Go Granny Go
-
V5 ** 22
188 Go Granny Go Right
-
V5 ** 6
189 West Corner
-
V4 * 5
190 The Southwest Arete 5.9 14
  Sunshine Boulder
192 Sunshine Boulder #1
-
V0- ** 3
193 Sunshine Boulder #2 V0- 2
194 Sunshine Boulder #3
-
V0 ** 10
195 Good Morning Sunshine
-
V1 *** 13
196 Sunshine Boulder #6
-
V1 * 2
  Green Wall Boulder
198 Green Wall Boulder #10 V5 3
199 South Arete
-
V6 ** 1
200 South Face of the Green Wall
-
V5 ** 1
201 East Rib
-
V3 *** 2
202 Green Wall Arete
-
V1 ** 28
203 Green Wall Essential
-
V2 *** 52
204 Green Wall Center
-
V6 *** 25
205 Green Wall Boulder #23 - Unnamed
-
V0 13
206 Green Wall Boulder #24 - Unnamed
-
V0- 7
  The Hunk
208 The Hunk
-
V2 *** 17
  Drifter (a.k.a. Smoking) Boulder
210 Change of Heart V6 *** 6
211 High Plains Drifter
-
V7 *** 25
212 Plain High Dyno
-
V10 **  
  Lower Smoking Boulder
214 Lower Smoking Boulder #22 - Unnamed V7 * 4
215 The Cosmonaut
-
V6 * 3
216 Croft Problem
-
V8 * 3
  Bachar Boulder
218 Bachar Boulder #27 - Unnamed
-
V4 * 1
219 Bachar Problem Left
-
V5 ** 6
220 Bachar Problem Right/Golden Boy
-
V5 ** 5
  Pinch Boulder
222 Pinch Boulder #32 - Unnamed
-
V8 *  
223 Pinch Boulder #33 - Unnamed
-
V7 **  
  Womb Boulder
225 A Birthing Experience V1 * 17
  Mandala Boulder
227 The Mandala V12 *** 1
228 Pope's Prow
-
V6 *** 8
229 Pope's Prow, Right
-
V5 ** 1
230 Devoted
-
V8 ** 1
231 Devoted Traverse V6 * 5
  Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
233 The Flake V1 ** 6
234 Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder #4 V1 2
235 Smooth Shrimp
-
V6 * 9
236 Perfectly Chicken
-
V5 ** 10
237 Cocktail Sauce
-
V10 3
238 Bubba Gump
-
V9 ** 2
  Saigon Boulder
240 Saigon V6 *** 13
241 Saigon Direct V9 ** 3
242 Monkey Dihedral
-
V2 *** 16
243 Saigon Boulder #8 - Unnamed V0 ** 1
244 Saigon Boulder #10 - Unnamed V0 1
  Porcelain Boulder
246 Raggedy Ann
-
V3 *  
247 Doll Face
-
V4 **  
  Sharma Traverse Boulder
249 The Sharma Traverse
-
V10 **  
250 Backside Mantel
-
V7 *  
  ---BUTTERMILKS OUTLYING---
Climb name Grade
  The Pawn
  High and Mighty Boulder
  Green Slab Boulder
  The Knight Boulder
  Chess Boulder
  Edge of Reason Boulder
258 No Sense, No Reason
-
V4 ** 1
259 Edge of Reason
-
V3 ** 2
  The Checkerboard
261 The Checkerboard
-
V8 *** 9
262 The Checkerboard (stand start) V7 *** 3
  ---THE PAINTED CAVE AREA---
  Painted Cave Boulder
265 Slashface of the Buttermilks V6 * 1
266 Painted Cave Sit Start
-
V6 ** 2
  Charlie Brown Boulders
268 Charlie Brown
-
V3 * 1
269 Harder Browner
-
V4 * 1
270 Pig Pen
-
V5 * 1
271 Evening Snow V7 * 1
  Xen Boulder
  Grain Tower
  Big Wave Boulder
  ---THE BONEYARD---
  Bone Boulder
  Solitaire Boulder
278 Solitaire
-
V8 *** 3
  Get Carter Boulder
280 Sunshine Naked
-
V0 3
281 Roadside Crack
-
V1 3
282 Seven Spanish Angels (aka: The Ruckus)
-
V6 *** 24
283 To Kill Ya Corner
-
V3 ** 3
284 Twin Cracks
-
V9 ** 1
285 Michael Caine
-
V9 ** 1
286 Get Carter
-
V7 ** 3
287 Holy Slab
-
VB 3
288 Backside Crack
-
VB 5
  ---SECRETS OF THE BEEHIVE AREA---
  Nectar Boulder
291 Queen Sweet Nectar
-
V9 ** 1
292 Queen Sweet Nectar left
-
V9 *** 1
  Secrets/Titan Boulder
294 Secrets of the Beehive (post hold-breakage)
-
V7 1
  Unnamed Boulder
  Brown Wall Boulder (a.k.a. Titan)
  Luminance Block
298 Luminance
-
V10 ***  
  ---THE POLLEN GRAINS/LIDJA BOULDERS---
  Pollen Grain/Lidja Boulder
301 Suspended in Silence (pre-hold breakage)
-
V5 *** 7
302 Suspended in Silence (post-hold breakage) V7 *** 2
303 Drone Miltia V6 *** 6
304 Lidija's Mouth
-
V3 *** 10
305 Hunting Dog
-
V2 * 7
306 Wanderlust
-
V2 * 4
307 Snake Oil
-
V6 * 1
308 Traverse
-
V1 * 4
309 Moon Grey Blue
-
V2 1
310 A Smile at the Foot of the Ladder
-
V0 1
  Unnamed Boulder
  Honey Boulder
313 Christine Keeler
-
V5 2
314 Cindy Swank
-
V7 ** 7
315 Charlotte Rampling
-
V2 1
316 Heidi
-
V0 2
317 Cover Me With Flowers
-
V2 *** 9
  Jedi Boulder
319 Jedi Mind Tricks V4 *** 15
320 Out of Focus
-
V1 1
321 Out
-
V0 * 1
322 Flake Descent
-
VB 1
323 Loud Dark Eye
-
V1 * 1
  Spectre Boulder
325 Sidewinder
-
V10 **  
  Beekeeper Boulder
327 Beekeeping for Profit and Pleasure (low finish)
-
V3 3
328 Follow the Pollen Path (low finish)
-
V4 2
329 The Beekeeper's Apprentice
-
V5 4
  Mead Boulder
  Apiary Boulder
  Honey Bear Bong Boulder
333 Honey Bear Bong
-
V7 ** 2
  Apis
  The Honeycomb
  The Hive
  Boulder 1
  Cracked Cobble Boulder
339 Cracker
-
V1 ** 2
340 Cave
-
V5 ** 2
  Boulder 3
  Small Cobble Boulder
  Big Cobble Boulder
  Small Cave Boulder
  White Slab Boulder
  Big Arete Boulder
  The Visor
  The Ninth
349 The Ninth V7 ***  
  ---Dale's Camp---
  Small Fruit Area
352 Fear of a Black Planet
-
VB ** 3
353 Unnamed #1
-
V2 * 2
354 Unnamed #2
-
V2 * 2
355 Tricky Grain V0 1
356 Small Fruit
-
V3 ** 3
357 Scoopy-Doo
-
V0 1
358 Unnamed #10
-
VB * 2
  Hueco Wall Area
360 Hueco Wall
-
V9 ***  
361 Gastonia
-
V8 ** 2
362 Xaviers roof
-
V11 *** 1
  The Notch
364 Free Your Ass
-
V1 * 2
365 Unnamed #11
-
V3 2
366 Don Quixote
-
V0 ** 1
  Led Zeppelin Area
368 The Legend of Rosa May
-
V5 ** 1
  Heart Prow Area
370 Pet the Kitty V6 ** 1
371 Emotional Rescue V2 1
372 The Heart Prow V1 * 3
373 Xenolith Slab VB ** 1
  ---Dale's West---
375 The Flake
-
V7 ** 1
376 Zen Flute V10 *** 3

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