UKC

Climbs 500
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1964m a.s.l
Faces all

Approaching Storm: TimS Searches for Soul Slinger V9. Owens River Valley, California. © ChrisJD

Crag features

World-class bouldering venue with something for everyone. The quartz-monzonite rock is hard on the fingertips.

Approach notes

No problems - see the Bishop Bouldering Guide for more info re wild camping etc

If you want world class bouldering with the finest weather imaginable, GET YOURSELF HERE!!! The best times to go are March-Early May or Late Sept-November if you want to climb in Shorts/T-shirt. Winter months can be very cold and alot of the mountain roads are closed due to snow. The Buttermilks are at 6500ft but rarely get much snow. Take warm gear for the night times though, it gets really cold! Bishop is the place to stay but not much in the way of nightlife. Whiskey Creek Bar is about as good as it gets but happy hour food is a bargain (5-7pm) and very very good! North Western Airlines is probably the cheapest way to travel, only cost 165 each return. You have to transfer at Miniapolis and fly into LAX then a 270 mile drive to Bishop. A hire car is essential as there is no public transport in the area. The roads to the crags (happy/sad boulders and Buttermilks) are all dirt tracks but can easily be used by a normal car. If you don't have a bouldering mat or are considering buying another, BUY IT IN BISHOP! Wilsons Eastside Sports has a very good climbing dept and everything is less than half the price of the uk. You can pick up Metolius Cheap Bastard mats for less than 50! Rock shoes and everything else are a bargain too. Food is what you would expect from the states, massive portions and very cheap! Hope this info is useful. This place is so good I'm buying a house here! Nuff said. Steve
TheNorthernOne - 25/Dec/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  ---BUTTERMILKS MAIN---
  Birthday Boulders
3 Birthday Mantel
-
V0 ** 17
4 The Way Down
-
V0 11
5 Birthday Boulders #10 - Unnamed
-
V3 1
6 The Prow sit start
-
V2 * 30
7 The Prow standing start
-
V1 8
8 Birthday Left
-
V0 *** 40
9 Birthday Left SDS into Birthday Direct
-
V3 * 2
10 Birthday Direct
-
V3 *** 33
11 Birthday Skyline
-
V3 *** 10
12 Birthday Boulder #? - Birthday Boulder SDS
-
VB 2
  The Loaf
14 The Loaf #19 - Unnamed
-
V0 3
15 The Rising
-
V4 ** 8
16 Naan Bread
-
V4 * 4
17 Yeast V3 ** 1
18 Sheepherder
-
V2 *** 16
19 Dough Boy
-
V3 * 2
  Stained Glass Boulder
21 Stained Glass
-
V10 *** 2
  Five and Dime Boulders
23 Five and Dime Right
-
V0 * 2
24 Five and Dime
-
V1 ** 6
25 Five and Dime Left
-
V0 4
  Bun Boulder
27 Bun Boulder #1 - Unnamed
-
V0 1
28 Bun Boulder #2 - Unnamed
-
V0 1
  Big Wall Boulder
30 Big Wall
-
V1 *  
31 Big Mantel
-
V4 *  
  Fly Boy Boulder
33 The Fall Guy
-
V9 ***  
34 Haroun and the Sea of Stories
-
V12 ***  
35 Fly Boy Arete V5 ** 11
36 Fly Boy
-
V6 ** 5
37 Fly Boy Sit-start
-
V8 *** 6
38 Fly Boy Boulder #22
-
V0 * 1
39 Fly Boy Boulder #23
-
V3 * 2
  Scoop Boulder
41 Scoop
-
V2 *  
42 Erosion
-
V1 *  
  North Boulder
44 East Side Story
-
V3 **  
45 Larger than Life
-
V3 **  
  Pope's Hat Boulder
47 Pope's Roof
-
V6 *  
48 Pope's Problem a.k.a. No Girlfriend
-
V4 *  
  Boy and Girl Rocks
50 Boy and Girl Rocks #12
-
V0 2
51 Boy and Girl Rocks #13
-
V1 6
52 Boy and Girl Rocks #15
-
V4 * 5
53 Boy and Girl Rocks #16 V1 * 8
54 Patina V0 * 11
55 Patina Right Finish
-
V1 3
  Ranger Rock
57 Ranger Rock #1 V3 * 2
58 Ranger Rock #2
-
V5 * 1
59 Rail Problem
-
V5 ** 1
60 Ranger Rock #6
-
V2 ** 5
61 Ranger Rock #7
-
V0 * 6
62 Ranger Rock #8
-
V6 1
63 Ranger Rock #9
-
V2 5
64 Ranger Rock #10
-
V1 3
65 Ranger Rock #11
-
V0 4
66 Ranger Rock #12
-
V0 7
67 Ranger Rock #13
-
V2 6
  The Hero Roof Boulder
69 Groovy Grit V1 1
70 Dishy Grit V6 ** 2
71 Easy Grit
-
V5 ** 3
72 Rib Direct Sit Start
-
V7 * 1
73 Rib, No Rib
-
V1 * 5
74 Rib, No Rib, Sit
-
V6 * 3
75 Hero Roof
-
V0 *** 44
76 Unamed Slab
-
V0- * 12
  Iron Man Boulder
78 Iron Man
-
V4 *** 58
79 Iron Fly
-
V9 *** 3
  The Hagar Boulder
81 Hager Boulder #1
-
V0 2
82 Hager Arete
-
V0 ** 4
83 Hager Face
-
V4  
84 Unnamed Arete
-
V0 2
85 Hager Boulder #5
-
VB ** 2
  Golden Boulder
87 Glass Slab
-
V0 ** 1
  The Grovel Roof
89 Grovel Roof
-
V3 *  
  The Twins
91 The Twins #16 - Unnamed
-
VB ** 4
92 The Twins #17 - Unnamed
-
V0 * 2
93 The Twins #20 - Unnamed V0 2
  The Bowling Pin
95 Original Line V3 ** 2
96 Bowling Pin
-
V4 *** 15
97 Bowling Pin Sit Start
-
V6 *** 10
98 Ten Pin Trial
-
V8 ** 1
  Tut Boulder
100 Tut Boulder #13 - Unnamed
-
V1 5
101 Tut Boulder #14 - Unnamed
-
V0 4
102 Tut Boulder #15 - Unnamed
-
V0 5
103 Milk the Milks V6 ** 9
104 Egypt (no crack)
-
V3 * 5
105 Egypt (crack)
-
V0 4
106 Wimberries V4 * 1
107 King Tut
-
V3 *** 35
108 Funky Tut
-
V3 *** 34
109 Ay
-
V1 ** 8
110 Howard Carter
-
V0 * 6
111 Howard Carter sit start V6 * 1
112 Tut Crack Left
-
V5 * 1
113 Tut Crack
-
V3 * 3
114 Lululator V4 ** 2
115 Tut Boulder #30 - Unnamed V2 * 4
  Corner Boulder
117 Corner Boulders #4 V0- * 1
118 Corner Boulders #5 V0 * 6
119 Corner Boulders #6
-
V1 2
120 Corner Boulders #? - Unnamed
-
V0 1
  Leary/Bard Boulder
122 Hobbs' Problem
-
V2 ** 7
123 Leary/Bard Arete
-
V5 *** 16
Climb name Grade
  Buttermilk Stem Boulder
125 Buttermilk Stem Boulder #7 - Unnamed V2 2
126 Buttermilk Stem
-
V1 *** 41
127 Buttermilk Stem Sit
-
V4 *** 11
  Rowell Boulder
129 Buttermilk Gem
-
V1 *  
130 Junior's Arete
-
V1 **  
131 Junior's Achievement
-
V8 ** 4
132 Mooned
-
V9 **  
133 Rowell Face
-
V1 **  
  Pothole Boulder
135 Pothole Traverse
-
V1  
136 Pothole Direct
-
V0  
  Upper Cave Boulder
138 Upper Cave Boulder #1 - Unnamed
-
V2  
  Cave Boulder
140 Pain Grain Sit Start
-
V7 ** 4
141 Cave Route
-
V6 11
142 Shelter from the Storm V5 8
143 Inner Sanctum
-
V2 9
144 Gleaming the Cube V8 * 1
145 Gleaming the Cube (high start)
-
V6 4
  Fit Homeless Boulder
147 Fit Homeless Boulder #4 - unnamed
-
V0- ** 2
148 Fit Homeless Boulder #4 - unnamed (sit start)
-
V1 3
149 Fit Homeless Boulder #5 - unnamed
-
V0 ** 3
150 Fit Homeless Boulder #6 - unnamed
-
V0- ** 3
151 Fit Homeless Boulder #7 - unnamed
-
V0 ** 3
  Soul Slinger Boulders
153 Soul Slinger V9 *** 5
  Robinson's Rubber-Tester Slab
155 Robinson's Rubber Tester
-
V0 ** 9
  Xenolith Boulder
157 Heavy Grit
-
V7 *  
  Roadside Boulder
159 Roadside Highball
-
V3 *** 3
160 Roadside Boulder #8
-
V4 2
161 The Rail Problem
-
V3 ** 12
162 Roadside Boulder #10 V0 * 7
163 Roadside Boulder #12 V3 ** 1
164 Roadside Boulder #13 V1 * 3
165 Roadside Boulder #16 V1 1
  Eyes Boulder
167 Eyes Boulder #19 - Unnamed
-
V0- 1
  Grandpa Peabody
169 Cave Problem V4 ** 9
170 Lucid Dreaming
-
V15  
171 Evilution
-
V12 ***  
172 Evilution Direct
-
V11 ***  
173 Evilution To The Lip
-
V10 ** 1
174 Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8 1
  Peewee
176 Peewee #20 - Unnamed
-
V3  
  Grandma Peabody
178 Baburre
-
V12 **  
179 Essential Peabody
-
V0 *** 15
180 Slipstream
-
V4 * 4
181 North Face Direct
-
V2 ** 4
182 Center Direct
-
V10 **  
183 Direction
-
V13 **  
184 Magnetic North
-
V8 *** 1
185 Go Granny Ho
-
V7 3
186 Go Granny Go
-
V5 ** 22
187 Go Granny Go Right
-
V5 ** 6
188 West Corner
-
V4 * 5
189 The Southwest Arete 5.9 12
  Sunshine Boulder
191 Sunshine Boulder #1
-
V0- ** 3
192 Sunshine Boulder #2 V0- 2
193 Sunshine Boulder #3
-
V0 ** 10
194 Good Morning Sunshine
-
V1 *** 12
195 Sunshine Boulder #6
-
V1 * 2
  Green Wall Boulder
197 Green Wall Boulder #10 V5 3
198 South Face of the Green Wall
-
V5 ** 1
199 Green Wall Arete
-
V1 ** 26
200 Green Wall Essential
-
V2 *** 49
201 Green Wall Center
-
V6 *** 24
202 Green Wall Boulder #23 - Unnamed
-
V0 11
203 Green Wall Boulder #24 - Unnamed
-
V0- 7
  The Hunk
205 The Hunk
-
V2 *** 15
  Drifter (a.k.a. Smoking) Boulder
207 Change of Heart V6 *** 6
208 High Plains Drifter
-
V7 *** 23
209 Plain High Dyno
-
V10 **  
  Lower Smoking Boulder
211 Lower Smoking Boulder #22 - Unnamed V7 * 4
212 The Cosmonaut
-
V6 * 3
213 Croft Problem
-
V8 * 3
  Bachar Boulder
215 Bachar Boulder #27 - Unnamed
-
V4 * 1
216 Bachar Problem Left
-
V5 ** 6
217 Bachar Problem Right/Golden Boy
-
V5 ** 5
  Pinch Boulder
219 Pinch Boulder #32 - Unnamed
-
V8 *  
220 Pinch Boulder #33 - Unnamed
-
V7 **  
  Womb Boulder
222 A Birthing Experience V1 * 15
  Mandala Boulder
224 The Mandala V12 *** 1
225 Pope's Prow
-
V6 *** 7
226 Devoted
-
V8 ** 1
227 Devoted Traverse V6 * 5
  Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
229 The Flake V1 ** 6
230 Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder #4 V1 2
231 Smooth Shrimp
-
V6 * 9
232 Perfectly Chicken
-
V5 ** 10
233 Cocktail Sauce
-
V10 2
234 Bubba Gump
-
V9 ** 2
  Saigon Boulder
236 Saigon V6 *** 12
237 Saigon Direct V9 ** 2
238 Monkey Dihedral
-
V2 *** 14
239 Saigon Boulder #8 - Unnamed V0 ** 1
240 Saigon Boulder #10 - Unnamed V0 1
  Porcelain Boulder
242 Raggedy Ann
-
V3 *  
243 Doll Face
-
V4 **  
  Sharma Traverse Boulder
245 The Sharma Traverse
-
V10 **  
246 Backside Mantel
-
V7 *  
Climb name Grade
  ---BUTTERMILKS OUTLYING---
  The Pawn
  High and Mighty Boulder
  Green Slab Boulder
  The Knight Boulder
  Chess Boulder
  Edge of Reason Boulder
254 Edge of Reason
-
V3 ** 1
  The Checkerboard
256 The Checkerboard
-
V8 *** 8
257 The Checkerboard (stand start) V7 *** 2
  ---THE PAINTED CAVE AREA---
259 Charlie Brown *
-
V3 * 1
260 Harder Browner *
-
V4 * 1
261 Pig Pen *
-
V5 * 1
  Painted Cave Boulder
263 Slashface of the Buttermilks V6 * 1
264 Painted Cave Sit Start
-
V6 ** 2
  Charlie Brown Boulders
266 Evening Snow V7 * 1
  Xen Boulder
  Grain Tower
  Big Wave Boulder
  ---THE BONEYARD---
  Bone Boulder
  Solitaire Boulder
273 Solitaire
-
V8 *** 3
  Get Carter Boulder
275 Sunshine Naked
-
V0 3
276 Roadside Crack
-
V1 3
277 Seven Spanish Angels (aka: The Ruckus)
-
V6 *** 22
278 To Kill Ya Corner
-
V3 ** 3
279 Twin Cracks
-
V9 ** 1
280 Michael Caine
-
V9 ** 1
281 Get Carter
-
V7 ** 3
282 Holy Slab
-
VB 3
283 Backside Crack
-
VB 5
  ---SECRETS OF THE BEEHIVE AREA---
  Nectar Boulder
286 Queen Sweet Nectar
-
V9 ** 1
287 Queen Sweet Nectar left
-
V9 *** 1
  Secrets/Titan Boulder
  Unnamed Boulder
  Brown Wall Boulder (a.k.a. Titan)
  Form Destroyer Roof Boulder
  ---THE POLLEN GRAINS/LIDJA BOULDERS---
  Pollen Grain/Lidja Boulder
294 Suspended in Silence (pre-hold breakage)
-
V5 *** 7
295 Suspended in Silence (post-hold breakage) V7 *** 1
296 Drone Miltia V6 *** 5
297 Lidija's Mouth
-
V3 *** 9
298 Hunting Dog
-
V2 * 7
299 Wanderlust
-
V2 * 4
300 Snake Oil
-
V6 * 1
301 Traverse
-
V1 * 4
302 Moon Grey Blue
-
V2 1
303 A Smile at the Foot of the Ladder
-
V0 1
  Unnamed Boulder
  Honey Boulder
306 Christine Keeler
-
V5 2
307 Cindy Swank
-
V7 ** 7
308 Charlotte Rampling
-
V2 1
309 Heidi
-
V0 2
310 Cover Me With Flowers
-
V2 *** 7
  Jedi Boulder
312 Jedi Mind Tricks V4 *** 14
313 Out of Focus
-
V1 1
314 Out
-
V0 * 1
315 Flake Descent
-
VB 1
316 Loud Dark Eye
-
V1 * 1
  Spectre Boulder
318 Sidewinder
-
V10 **  
  Beekeeper Boulder
320 Beekeeping for Profit and Pleasure (low finish)
-
V3 3
321 Follow the Pollen Path (low finish)
-
V4 2
322 The Beekeeper's Apprentice
-
V5 4
  Mead Boulder
  Apiary Boulder
  Honey Bear Bong Boulder
326 Honey Bear Bong
-
V7 ** 2
  Apis
  The Honeycomb
  The Hive
  Boulder 1
  Cracked Cobble Boulder
332 Cracker
-
V1 ** 2
333 Cave
-
V5 ** 2
  Boulder 3
  Small Cobble Boulder
  Big Cobble Boulder
  Small Cave Boulder
  White Slab Boulder
  Big Arete Boulder
  The Visor
  The Ninth
342 The Ninth V7 ***  
  ---Dale's Camp---
  Small Fruit Area
345 Fear of a Black Planet
-
VB ** 3
346 Unnamed #1
-
V2 * 2
347 Unnamed #2
-
V2 * 2
348 Tricky Grain V0 1
349 Small Fruit
-
V3 ** 3
350 Scoopy-Doo
-
V0 1
351 Unnamed #10
-
VB * 2
  Hueco Wall Area
353 Hueco Wall
-
V9 ***  
354 Gastonia
-
V8 ** 2
355 Xaviers roof
-
V11 *** 1
  The Notch
357 Free Your Ass
-
V1 * 2
358 Unnamed #11
-
V3 2
359 Don Quixote
-
V0 ** 1
  Led Zeppelin Area
361 The Legend of Rosa May
-
V5 ** 1
  Heart Prow Area
363 Pet the Kitty V6 ** 1
364 Emotional Rescue V2 1
365 The Heart Prow V1 * 3
366 Xenolith Slab VB ** 1
  ---Dale's West---
368 The Flake
-
V7 ** 1
369 Zen Flute V10 *** 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S