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Climbs 150
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 716m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

Trout Creek is situated in Central Oregon in a region of high desert and essentially consists of a single crag on a flat mesa above the Deschutes river. Camping is available next to the river for a small fee ($8-$12) and has bathrooms but no water.

The main Trout Creek crag is relatively small but densely packed, featuring sustained crack climbing of all sizes on very good quality Basalt columnar features. Routes essentially fall into two categories: splitter crack climbs, or stemboxes following dual cracks. While jamming predominates, a number of climbs have a small amount of face climbing and the cruxes of the harder routes in particular often require good footwork to negotiate cruxes where the cracks disappear.

The highest concentration of routes is in the 5.10-5.12 range with only a small number of easier graded routes. Most routes are between 20 and 30 metres. A 60m rope is sufficient for most routes, a 70m maybe required for a few. At least a double rack of cams is required to climb at Trout Creek and for some routes many climbers will want triples or more of certain sizes. However, the cracks are in general more varied in size than, for example, Indian Creek and as such are not quite so gear intensive. Wires can be helpful, particularly for the thinner cracks. The  vast majority of routes are well-equipped with two-bolt anchors and fixed steel carabiners intended for lowering off. Fixed biners should be left in place or replaced if wear is an issue.  Guidebooks for use at the crag are kept in a box at the base of the crag along with other sundry items.

The climbing here is of exceptional quality, but there is perhaps not sufficient climbing to make it a destination area in its own right. However, it is only an hour away from Smith Rock and can be visited as a day trip from there. Alternatively, if travelling to or from more northerly destinations, Trout Creek is well worth a stop for a day or two.

The best seasons for a visit are spring and autumn: summers are hot and winters can be cold. However, the W/NW aspect of the main crag means that it is possible to climb at Trout Creek all year round. Note though that the crag is usually closed in Spring for raptor nesting. While the crag is fairly quiet in terms of climbers (other than weekends in peak seasons) the campground is popular with fishermen and can be busy (and rowdy)  at certain times (mostly spring and summer).

 

Approach notes

Madras (about an hour north of Bend on US97) is the closest town to Trout Creek. From here take US97 north out of town. After a mile or two turn left on NE Cora Drive which becomes NE Clark Drive and takes you the village of Gateway. Cross the train tracks and immediately take a right. Follow this road, signed for Trout Creek Recreational Area until its end at the campground.

From the day use parking follow an old road next to a river for about 10 minutes. A cairned path leads steeply up to the left-hand end of the main wall. This is the shortest approach. Alternatively, continue on the old road passed this first cairn and later, a gate, to a second cairned path. This leads less steeply to the right-hand end of the main wall. Note that the base of the crag is formed of collapsed columns and boulders so traversing the base can be slow until you've learnt the best route through the maze! Even accounting for this, the steeper path provides faster access to all routes.

Access Advice

Access to Trout Creek is a somewhat sensitive issue and the fact that it remains open to climbers is thanks to the hard work and diplomacy of many local climbers. As such, you should make every effort to respect the access rules.

Various birds (e.g Golden and Bald Eagles) make Trout Creek their breeding ground. As a result in most years the crag is closed to climbers. Usually the closure begins January 15th until at least May 15th, though nesting is monitored each year and restrictions may be lifted earlier (or kept longer) if appropriate. Check current restrictions before a visit. The campground remains open during the crag closure.

Much of the land surrounding Trout Creek is private (in particular the land above the crag is private ranch land) and as such is off-limits. Stick to the established approach trails and avoid the top of the crag.

 

 

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