Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 453m a.s.l
Faces SE

Jenny B on Graspia (F4c), Marciaga, Italy © Stuart S

Crag features

See http://www.falesia.it/Falesie/sop=viewarticle/artid=185/falesia=Marciaga.html for more details and a list of routes

The crag lies about 1 km to the east of the villiage of Marciaga - on the road to Castion Vestige, opposite direction to Garda.

The L end of the crag seems popular and has recently been re-equipped; the R end is getting overgrown and some routes have been de-bolted (2017)

Approach notes

All I remember is you park by a church - the crag is visible from the road. Walk up the track L of the church to cross a golf course (follow signs for the 16th tee!) and through a lovely grove of trees until a fairly obvious path to the crag following an old fence. The crag is south-east facing but the bottom is shaded by trees and the crag loses the sun about 2.30 pm..

The other thing I remember is that "Nido non ascendre" is not the name of a route - it means "Don't climb - wasps nest". It's the sort of mistake you only make once

Marciaga is the only place I've sport climbed, and the only place in Italy I've climbed, so not a lot of experience to draw on. But, this was a lovely spot - the views from the top of Affi and Rocca di Garda, the lake and mountains across the valley are spectacular, and equal to those of the Riva/Nago-Torbole area. Being in the woods, there's also a fair bit of shade, which can be useful. The rock itself is lovely - steep slabs, fairly grippy for limestone, lots of pockets and a few cracks, not much polished. The grades feel a bit hard to me, though I climbed nothing particularly hard: the grades felt equivalent to the English technical grades, and, combined with sparse bolting, 4c felt like HS/VS. Would have loved to have climbed more, but my second wasn't enjoying it on the second visit, and we realised we were getting covered in very small, fine little spines (from a caterpillar? a bush?) that were very irritating to the skin. Watch out for these and for big wasps (spotted a calabrone nest on Glasnost)! A small set of nuts (e.g. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8) might be useful/appreciated on some routes. A good day to be had! Finally, the church you park at is not the one in Marciaga itself, but is called "Madonna del Soccorso". The church is on the Kompass map.
C Witter - 21/Aug/16
A lovely little cragg, no routes stand out as classics. Non the less a nice place to while away a sunny afternoon. The trees help shelter the belay and the picnic spots.
Will W - 09/Jan/08
Very pleasant crag, about 5miles from the town of Garda, 10 minute walk-in and whilst it's south facing, the base is covered in trees
Chris the Tall - 05/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  A : Ziriccitalgia
2 Gnomo
-
5a  
3 Bombaso 3c * 2
  B : Graspia
5 Pettit Pilier 5c 2
6 Angevensi 4c 1
7 Quelli della 1c 3c 2
8 Old Love 4a 3
9 Tempesta 4c 2
10 Gavina 3a 3
11 Ciao Efrem Sanguinetto 4a 2
12 Whisky? No grazie 5c 3
13 Graspia 4c 2
14 Ricordi
-
5a 2
  C : Negus
16 Oasi 5a 3
17 Mr. Verde 5c 4
18 Negus
-
5a 1
19 Niet Pezlsky
-
4c 1
20 Apparenza
-
5c 2
  D : Aerofagia
22 Palestrina 4a 2
23 Prima Della Nascita
-
4c ** 1
24 Guai in vista
-
6a+ 1
25 Criumiri biondi
-
4c 1
  E : Cavallino Rosso
27 Via le donne
-
4c 1
28 Fata Turchina
-
4c 2
29 Cavallino rosso 4c ** 3
30 Carolina
-
4c 2
31 Excalibur 6a ** 3
32 Nonna Abelarda
-
6a+ 1
33 Bob rock
-
4a 3
34 Pizzamiglio
-
4c 4
35 Glasnost
-
5a 2
36 Che Pica 5c * 3
  F : Per Laura
38 Zio Billy 4a 1
39 Orlando Furioso 4a 1
40 Criminal 4a 1
41 Barbagianni 4c 2
42 113a 6a 1
43 Gekki 4c 3
44 Dedicata A Laura 4c 2
  Unknown routes.
46 Rombo (Disattrezzata)
-
4a 2
47 W la Mamma (Disattrezzata)
-
6a 2

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