Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

One of many attempts at the first half of Shelf Life Direct. Some great climbs all along these crags, well worth checking out © Joe_Law

Crag features

An excellent training venue situated alongside the river don in the woods. Problems are usually at natural finishing points about 5 metres up and there are several excellent traverses. Please respect the local area and take litter home with you as any trouble could affect future access.

Approach notes

It seems as if there has been some clearance work that has removed trees from in front of the edge and stripped ivy from the rock. Landings have also been built up and levelled out. However there is no official word on access in the view of climbing, so a low profile is still recommended.

Access Advice

Recent developments in the Sprotbrough Gorge area have been flagged buy Natural England (NE) as a potential issue which may have had a negative impact on the SSSI. Following a site meeting between NE, the BMC and keen local climbers, the following agreements are now in place to ensure any future developments will not damage the SSSI features. Overall, climbing on the areas in the Gorge which are already developed should be able to continue in harmony with wildlife, but ideas for future developments need to be run by Natrual England first to ensure no SSSI features will be affected.

Engine Wood (Mo’s Boulder and faces): climbing at its currently low level is unlikely to cause further damage, but before any further development of this area the climbers invovled should consult with NE. In particular any further vegetation clearance from above or below the crags or the crags themselves would be likely to be detrimental to SSSI features. 
Levitt Hagg Wood: again the existing low level of use is not likely to cause any issues providing no vegetation clearance takes place. With further discussion with NE, some limited development of routes on the back quarried wall might be possible from a conservation point of view. This would also require landowner permission and any climbers interested in developing this in the future should contact the BMC's Access & Conservation Officer first.
 

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  MO'S BUTTRESS
2 River Of Dreams f8B  
3 High and Dry
-
f7B+  
4 Down and Out
-
f7C  
5 Half Life
-
f7B+  
6 Shelf Life f7A+ * 4
7 Shelf Life Direct f7B+ * 5
8 Shelf Life Indirect f7B * 3
9 The Shelf
-
f7B  
10 Shelf Less f7B+ * 1
11 Mo's Undercut
-
f7C 3
12 Accelerator
-
f8A  
13 All Strung Out
-
f7C  
14 The Upstart f6B 2
15 Pocket Sidepull f5+ 2
16 Before The Ivy f7A+ * 2
  GREEN WALL
18 Green Wall - Problem 1 f5+ 2
19 Green Wall - Problem 2 f3 3
20 Green Wall - The Shelf f5+ * 2
21 Green Wall - Problem 4 f5 2
22 Social Worker f6B 2
23 Green Wall - Problem 6 f6A 2
24 The Lo f6A 2
25 Greenpeace * f5 1
  RIGHT BUTTRESS
27 Rainbow Warrior * f5+ 1
28 Chugger * f5 1
29 Charitable Gesture * f4+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer phleppy