UKC

Climbs 178
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces NE

Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

The bloc problems are usually clean for the first few metres and are usually downclimbed/jumped off from first significant jugs. The top-outs of the crag problems can be very mossy and dirty. if you are considering solo finishes, cleaning on abseil may be advisable.

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Guidebooks

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  BLOC
2 Polo f5+ 12
3 Polover f6A+ 6a * 14
4 Tanktop f5+ 5c 8
5 Silver Arete f3+ 4a 19
6 Grooved arete f4 4c 28
7 Totem Left Arete f4+ 4
8 Totem Left SS f6B * 1
9 Totem f6A 5c * 20
10 Totem Sit Start f6A * 5
11 Totem Dyno f6B+ ** 1
12 Wide Eyed Crack f6C+ *** 16
13 Harmless f6A 6a * 30
14 Harmless SS Let f6B+ 1
15 Harmless SS Left f6B 2
16 Arrowhead Eliminate f6A 14
17 Arrowhead Left (Bloc) f6C 2
18 Colin's Traverse f7A+ * 1
19 Chimney Traverse f6B * 17
20 Hi, Low off to Totem we go f6C * 5
21 Merlin f6C * 7
22 Dolly Jean Dragqueen f6C * 10
23 Dolly Direct f6A+ ** 8
24 Tom and Jerry Bloc f5+ * 4
25 T & J Sloper Eliminate f6C+ * 1
26 Tom and Jerry Sit Start Bloc f6A * 2
  Lower Wooded Blocs
28 Clubfoot left f5 1
29 Clubfoot Direct f6A * 1
30 Clubfoot f6A 1
31 Swingtime f6A+ 9
32 Ragtime f7A 6
33 Terror Left f4+ 4c 9
34 Terror f6A 5c ** 32
35 Terror Right f6B 6a ** 10
36 Terror Sit Start f6C 8
37 Terror Right SS
-
f7A 4
38 Andy's Arete f6C+ ** 9
39 Andy's Wall f6C * 10
40 Andy's Link f7A ** 1
41 Stand-up Routine f6B+ * 4
42 Left hand Wall f6A+ 5
43 Layback Wall Bloc f6C 6b ** 4
44 Layback Traverse f6B * 13
45 Samson bloc f6B+ * 6
46 Samson sit left f6A 8
47 Scabbard traverse f4+ 5
48 Sgian Dubh f6A * 1
49 Triplets Traverse f5+ * 2
50 Triplets Low Traverse f6C 2
51 The Blade. f5 5a 3
52 Tae a Moose f2+ 3c 12
53 Tae a Moose Sit Start f5+ 6a  
54 Tic Tac f4+ 5a 5
55 Bugs Bunny
-
none 3b 3
56 Latch Key Kid f6C 6b *  
57 Stoater f5+ * 2
58 Autobahn Wall f6B * 2
59 Hendo's Obsession
-
f5+ 5c 1
60 Hendo's Sit Start f6A * 1
61 Elk
-
f2+ 3a 8
62 Ell
-
f3 4a 3
63 Tarantula f5 5b * 4
64 Leech Arete Direct f7A+ 6c *  
Climb name Grade
65 Leech Arete Righthand f6C+ 6b *  
66 Leech Direct
-
none 6a ** 12
67 Leech f5+ 5b 8
68 Eel f3 4b 3
69 Coal Face none 4b 19
70 Charcoal Chimney f3 4a 15
71 Black Beauty f4+ 5a * 24
72 Black Power f3+ 4c 12
73 Mat Black f3 3c 8
  Little Buttress
75 East Wall f3+ 4c 3
76 Pinnacle Wall f3+ 4c ** 8
77 Donald Duck f3 4a 4
78 Mickey Mouse f3 4b 4
79 Piglet f3+ 4c 4
80 Pig's Ear f4+ 5a 4
81 Silk Purse f4+ 5b 2
82 West Wall f4+ 5b 2
83 Extrarete f4 5a 7
84 Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress) f3+ 4a 2
85 Sunshine Arete Wall f4+ 5a 2
86 Andy's Problem f6C+ 6b 1
  Cracked Slabs
88 Tree Wall f4 5a 4
89 Left Arete f3+ 4b 5
90 Cracked Slab VD 3b 10
91 Elephant Foot f6A 5c 3
92 Elephant Foot Traverse f6A+ 6a 4
93 The Slab f3 4a 7
94 Right Arete f3 4a 6
95 Blunt Arete f6B 6a 4
96 Cave Route f2 3a 6
  The Wizard
98 The Wizard f6B+ *** 24
99 Wizard Sit Start f7A ** 9
100 Wizard Sit Start Eliminate f7B+ *  
101 Tarot f3 3b 4
102 Suzy Q f5 5b 2
103 Victory V f4+ 4c 1
104 Victory V Sit Start f6A 6a  
105 Wopitee f6A 5b 1
106 Expo f6A 5b 2
107 Two Tree wall f4+ 4c * 4
108 Toad f3+ 4c 3
109 Rizla f3 3a 1
110 Vanguard f3+ 4
111 Vanguard foot eliminate f5+ 1
112 The Bridge f4 * 1
  Pine Tree Boulders
114 Sunburn f2+ 6
115 Sunshine Arete f2+ * 9
116 Sunshine Arete Left f3 3
117 Pine Cone Wall f6A 7
118 Jamie's Overhang f6A * 15
119 Jamie's Overhang Traverse f6A+ 3
120 Jamie's Overhang (Left) f6B ** 5
121 Jamie's Overhang Sit Start f6B+ ** 7
122 Jamie's SS Eliminate f6C * 4
123 Art of War direct f6C 5
124 The Art of War f6C+ * 13
125 Monkey Hanger f7A * 10
126 Sanjuro f7A * 3
127 Chop Phooey f7A 2
128 Surprise Attack f7B * 2
Climb name Grade
129 Terminal Arete f6A 2
130 The Slopester f4+ * 3
  Craigmore North
132 South Wall f4+ * 5
133 South Wall Central f6B * 5
134 Tiger Wall f6B+ ** 5
135 Tiger Wall Sit Start f7A *** 2
136 Entanglement f5+ * 4
  TRAD
  Chimney Area
139 Chimney Arete
-
none 4c 2
140 The Chimney S 4a 20
141 Glug f2 3b 16
142 Kit Kat D 3b 44
143 Legless HVS 4
144 Arrowhead Left-Hand S 4b 44
145 Arrowhead Right-Hand
-
none 3b 5
  Main Area
147 Cariad HVS 5b 3
148 Magic crack HVS 5b 21
149 Holly Tree Corner HS 4b 16
150 The Beast E2 5c 8
151 Slingsby's Crystal E2 6a 4
152 Jolly Green Dragon E1 5c 30
153 Craigmore Corner HVS 5b *** 131
154 Tom And Jerry Wall VS 5a ** 118
155 Tom and Jerry (var.Arete Direct) HVS 5c * 1
156 Rampage HS 4b * 122
157 Curving Groove HVS 5b 22
158 Hamilton's Arete E4 6b ** 4
159 Daylight Robbery VS 4c 6
160 Basil Brush HVS 5b 5
161 The Niche HS 4c * 107
162 Crib VS 5a 16
163 Rampant VD 4a 47
164 Grotty Groove
-
VD 4a 48
165 Sunday Wall
-
VS 5b 14
166 Hot Dawg HVS 5c 6
  Layback Crack Area
168 Bwana
-
HVS 5b 2
169 Inverlussa Crack E2 5c 1
170 Spinal Wall E2 6a ** 7
171 White Hope E1 5c 27
172 Layback Crack
-
E1 5c *** 63
173 Layback Crack - True Finish
-
E4 6a *** 16
174 Lay Crack Back E5 6a * 3
175 Craig's Wall E7 6c ***  
176 Crag Mate
-
VS 5a 7
177 Salamander HVS 5b 5
178 Not Another Eliminate E2 6a * 3
179 Samson HVS 5b 5
180 Sabre Crack VS 4c ** 118
181 Stiletto Crack VS 4c ** 139
182 Rapier Arete
-
E1 5b 9
  Blade Area
184 White Streak none 5b 1
185 Preliminary Exercise E2 5c  
186 Weasel
-
HVS 5b 5
187 Stoat
-
HVS 5b * 8
188 Autobahn VS 5a 27
189 Autobahn - Schumacher Finish E4 5c ** 1
190 All Hope
-
VS 5a 13

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer John S. Watson