Climbs 182
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 159m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

The bloc problems are usually clean for the first few metres and are usually downclimbed/jumped off from first significant jugs. The top-outs of the crag problems can be very mossy and dirty. if you are considering solo finishes, cleaning on abseil may be advisable.

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Guidebooks

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Sector
2 Chimney Arete
-
none 4c 4
3 The Chimney S 4a 26
4 Polo f5+ 14
5 Polover f6A+ 6a * 16
6 Tanktop f5+ 5c 10
7 Silver Arete f3+ 4a 22
8 Glug f2 3b 19
9 Grooved arete f4 4c 29
10 Totem Left Arete f4+ 9
11 Totem Left SS f6B * 2
12 Totem f6A 5c * 23
13 Totem Sit Start f6A * 7
14 Totem Dyno f6B+ ** 1
  Wide Eyed Wall
16 Kit Kat D 3b 50
17 Legless HVS 6
18 Wide Eyed Crack f6C+ *** 17
19 Harmless f6A 6a * 35
20 Harmless SS Let f6B+ 1
21 Harmless SS Left f6B 2
22 Arrowhead Eliminate f6A 16
23 Arrowhead Right-Hand
-
none 3b 8
24 Arrowhead Left-Hand S 4b 50
25 Arrowhead Left (Bloc) f6C 2
26 Colin's Traverse f7A+ * 1
27 Chimney Traverse f6B * 22
28 Hi, Low off to Totem we go f6C * 7
  Cariad Wall
30 Cariad HVS 5b 4
31 Magic crack HVS 5b 25
32 Holly Tree Corner HS 4b 19
33 Merlin f6C * 7
34 The Beast E2 5c 11
35 Slingsby's Crystal E2 6a 6
36 Jolly Green Dragon E1 5c 37
37 Dolly Jean Dragqueen f6C * 10
38 Dolly Direct f6A+ ** 10
  Craigmore Corner
40 Craigmore Corner HVS 5b *** 136
41 Tom And Jerry Wall VS 5a ** 126
42 Tom and Jerry (var.Arete Direct) HVS 5c * 4
43 Tom and Jerry Bloc f5+ * 5
44 T & J Sloper Eliminate f6C+ * 1
45 Tom and Jerry Sit Start Bloc f6A * 2
46 Rampage HS 4b * 132
47 Curving Groove HVS 5b 26
48 Hamilton's Arete E4 6b ** 4
49 Daylight Robbery VS 4c 10
50 Basil Brush HVS 5b 7
51 The Niche HS 4c * 119
52 Crib VS 5a 18
53 Rampant VD 4a 53
54 Grotty Groove
-
VD 4a 54
55 Sunday Wall
-
VS 5b 16
56 Hot Dawg HVS 5c 8
57 Bwana
-
HVS 5b 3
  Lower Wooded Blocs
59 Clubfoot left f5 1
60 Clubfoot Direct f6A * 1
61 Clubfoot f6A 1
62 Swingtime f6A+ 9
63 Ragtime f7A 6
  Layback Crack Area
65 Terror Left f4+ 4c 11
Climb name Grade
66 Terror f6A 5c ** 36
67 Terror Right f6B 6a ** 11
68 Terror Sit Start f6C 9
69 Terror Right SS
-
f7A 6
70 Inverlussa Crack E2 5c 1
71 Spinal Wall E2 6a ** 7
72 White Hope E1 5c 29
73 Andy's Arete f6C+ ** 9
74 Andy's Wall f6C * 13
75 Andy's Link f7A ** 2
76 Stand-up Routine f6B+ * 4
77 Layback Crack
-
E1 5c *** 76
78 Layback Crack - True Finish
-
E4 6a *** 20
79 Lay Crack Back E5 6a * 3
80 Craig's Wall E7 6c ***  
81 Left hand Wall f6A+ 6
82 Layback Wall Bloc f6C 6b ** 4
83 Layback Traverse f6B * 18
84 Crag Mate
-
VS 5a 10
85 Salamander HVS 5b 7
86 Not Another Eliminate E2 6a * 4
87 Samson HVS 5b 7
88 Samson bloc f6B+ * 6
89 Samson sit left f6A 8
90 Sabre Crack VS 4c ** 129
91 Stiletto Crack VS 4c ** 155
92 Rapier Arete
-
E1 5b 10
93 Scabbard traverse f4+ 5
94 Sgian Dubh f6A * 2
95 Triplets Traverse f5+ * 2
96 Triplets Low Traverse f6C 2
  Blade Area
98 White Streak none 5b 2
99 Preliminary Exercise E2 5c 2
100 The Blade. f5 5a 4
101 Tae a Moose f2+ 3c 15
102 Tae a Moose Sit Start f5+ 6a 1
103 Tic Tac f4+ 5a 8
104 Bugs Bunny
-
none 3b 5
105 Latch Key Kid f6C 6b * 1
  Autobahn Wall
107 Stoat
-
HVS 5b * 11
108 Stoater f5+ * 2
109 Weasel
-
HVS 5b 8
110 Autobahn Wall f6B * 4
111 Autobahn VS 5a 30
112 Autobahn - Schumacher Finish E4 5c ** 1
113 All Hope
-
VS 5a 16
114 Hendo's Obsession
-
f5+ 5c 3
115 Hendo's Sit Start f6A * 1
116 Elk
-
f2+ 3a 11
117 Ell
-
f3 4a 4
118 Tarantula f5 5b * 8
119 Leech Arete Direct f7A+ 6c *  
120 Leech Arete Righthand f6C+ 6b * 3
121 Leech Direct
-
none 6a ** 15
122 Leech f5+ 5b 12
123 Eel f3 4b 6
124 Coal Face none 4b 26
125 Charcoal Chimney f3 4a 21
126 Black Beauty f4+ 5a * 30
127 Black Power f3+ 4c 18
128 Mat Black f3 3c 12
  Little Buttress
130 East Wall f3+ 4c 5
Climb name Grade
131 Pinnacle Wall f3+ 4c ** 11
132 Donald Duck f3 4a 7
133 Mickey Mouse f3 4b 6
134 Piglet f3+ 4c 6
135 Pig's Ear f4+ 5a 6
136 Silk Purse f4+ 5b 4
137 West Wall f4+ 5b 4
138 Extrarete f4 5a 7
139 Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress) f3+ 4a 3
140 Sunshine Arete Wall f4+ 5a 3
  Willow Wall
142 Willow Wall f6A 5c * 1
143 Andy's Problem f6C 3
144 Bumblebee f6A+ * 1
  Cracked Slabs
146 Rowan Tree Wall f5+ * 7
147 Left Arete f3+ 4b 7
148 Cracked Slab VD 3b 13
149 Elephant Foot f6A 5c 4
150 Elephant Foot Traverse f6A+ 6a 5
151 The Slab f3 4a 10
152 Right Arete f3 4a 7
153 Blunt Arete f6B 6a 5
154 Cave Route f2 3a 8
  The Wizard
156 The Wizard f6B+ *** 28
157 Wizard Sit Start f7A ** 13
158 Wizard Sit Start Eliminate f7B+ *  
159 Tarot f3 3b 7
160 Suzy Q f5 5b 5
161 Victory V f4+ 4c 2
162 Victory V Sit Start f6A 6a 1
163 Wopitee f6A 5b 2
164 Expo f6A 5b 3
165 Two Tree wall f4+ 4c * 5
166 Toad f3+ 4c 4
167 Rizla f3 3a 2
  Pine Tree Boulders
169 Terminal Arete f6A 2
170 Vanguard f3+ 6
171 Vanguard foot eliminate f5+ 2
172 The Bridge f4 * 3
173 Sunburn f2+ 10
174 Sunshine Arete f2+ * 13
175 Sunshine Arete Left f3 7
176 The Slopester f4+ * 3
177 Pine Cone Wall f6A 11
178 Pine Cone Wall SS f6A+ 3
179 Jamie's Overhang f6A * 20
180 Jamie's Overhang Traverse f6A+ 4
181 Jamie's Overhang (Left) f6B ** 8
182 Jamie's Overhang Sit Start (Nice Guys Finish Last) f6B+ ** 10
183 Jamie's Overhang Sit Start Eliminate f6C * 6
184 Chop Phooey f6C 8
185 Sun Tzu Dyno/Jamie's Overhang SS Direct f6C 3
186 The Art of War f6C+ * 17
187 Monkey Hanger f7A * 12
188 Sanjuro f7A * 3
189 Surprise Attack f7B * 4
  'Craigmore North'
191 South Wall f4+ * 5
192 South Wall Central f6B * 5
193 Tiger Wall f6B+ ** 6
194 Tiger Wall Sit Start f7A *** 3
195 Entanglement f5+ * 4

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