Altitude 150m a.s.l
Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.
It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.
No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.
This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!
The bloc problems are usually clean for the first few metres and are usually downclimbed/jumped off from first significant jugs. The top-outs of the crag problems can be very mossy and dirty. if you are considering solo finishes, cleaning on abseil may be advisable.
On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.
|There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.|
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
|Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty.
A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean.
Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.|
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
|Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.|
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
|Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.|
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
|Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.|
AMo - 19/Apr/08