Climbs 244
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1179m a.s.l
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Ben Potard, Au Fil du Temps, Giétroz Gorge © jon

Crag features

Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. It features numerous good multi-pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.

When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only). Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.

NOTES:

1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.

2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a rockfall, caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. 

3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Approach notes

Approaches vary from 15 - 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) Châtelard (CH) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector.

PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages.

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Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  PASSET DU HAUT (SE)
2 Variant 6c  
3 Sue-Ellen 6b ** 1
4 Dallas
-
6c+ *** 2
5 JR
-
6a *** 3
6 Saga 6a+ *** 2
7 Clayton
-
6a+ ** 1
8 Bobby
-
5c * 2
9 Pam
-
5c 2
  passet du bas gauche (W and SE) (nos refer to Barberine topo)
11 La traversée du dragon (1) 6c ** 1
12 La mousson (2)
-
6a+ 1
13 Digue, dingue, donc (3)
-
6a+  
14 Le village englouti (4)
-
6b+ 2
15 Missing? (5) 6c  
16 Le cheval de Troie (6) 7b *  
17 Le cheval à bascule (7) 7a *  
18 Emotion à Emosson (8)
-
6b+ ** 4
19 Les tendres souhaites (9)
-
6a 5
20 Bonne nuit les petits (10) 6c ** 4
21 La cigale et la fourmi (11) 6a+ ** 6
22 Le Pas Obligatoire 6b ** 3
23 Poèmes et comptines (12) 6c+ ** 2
24 Pimprenelle
-
5a  
25 La poudre de perlinpinpin (13) 6c ** 1
26 Calins Nounours
-
4a  
27 Pin et chocolat (14) 6b ** 2
28 Sur un petit nuage (15)
-
5a ** 1
  PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) numbers refer to topo
30 A'louest rien de nouveau (1') 6a * 5
31 Le nouveau monde (1) 6c 3
32 Rocky mountain (2) 6c ** 3
33 Un air de Tenessee (3) 7a ** 1
34 Mystère U (4) 7b * 1
35 Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5) 6c+ *** 3
36 Lou garou (6) 6c *** 5
37 Camaïeu (7) 7a+ ** 1
38 Couleur pastel
-
6c  
39 Sous la loupe
-
6a 4
40 Rémus & Romulus
-
7a+  
41 Le petit chaperon rouge (8) 6c+ ** 1
42 P'tit loup (9) 6b * 4
  Main Face (S)
44 La Sylvie Phobie 6c+ ** 56
45 La Barbourine 6c+ *** 38
46 Mirrors on the Ceiling 7a *** 5
47 Vipère au Pied 6b+ ** 60
48 Méduse 7a ** 13
49 Le Fantôme de l'Opéra 6a+ * 11
50 Le Magicien d'Oz (voie Piola) 6b ** 80
51 Bon Voyage 7a ** 21
52 Balade au Bout des Combes 6c ** 7
53 Balade aux bout des combes L1
-
6a 2
54 La Tour de Chauffe 6c ** 6
55 Tour de Chauffe L1
-
5c 2
  DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)
57 1 Dalles 2a  
58 Macaroni 5b * 17
59 Lefurer 6a+ ** 28
60 Befa 6a * 7
61 Le chef du live 5c 14
62 Artho 5c * 26
63 Pâté cornichons 5c 11
64 Nazzareth 5b 5
65 Fabrer 5c ** 32
66 JJain 6a * 10
67 La Routadam 6a * 8
68 11 Upper ledge 6a * 2
69 12 Upper ledge 6c ** 1
70 13 Upper ledge 6b * 3
71 14 Upper ledge 6a+ ** 6
72 15 Far R slab 6a 4
73 16 Far R slab 5c 2
74 17 Far R slab 5a 2
  LA ZONE (S)
76 Rando 6b ** 13
77 Balade...(1) 6b+ ** 8
78 Balade...(2) 6c ** 11
79 Le Voleur 6b ** 26
80 Ma Bête Noire 7b+ ** 1
81 Saloprises 7c+ ** 1
82 Lune de Miel 7a *** 14
83 Moonshine 6b+ *** 17
84 Ca roule, la Boule 6c+ *** 11
85 La Zone 6b+ *** 34
86 Talisman 7a+ ** 6
87 Touchstone 7a+ ** 1
88 Les doigts de passage 7b *** 1
Climb name Grade
89 Play it Again, Sam 7a+ *** 9
90 Sam's Route 7a *** 26
91 Génésis 6b+ ** 14
92 Génératrice 7b *** 3
93 Génocide 6b+ ** 7
94 Voie de la Souche 7a+ ** 1
95 Menhir 7c ** 1
96 Projet (Sam's) Project 2
97 Voie Martin 6b+ ** 20
98 Apéritif 6c ** 17
99 L'Inversée 6c+ *** 9
100 Fin de Saison 6c *** 14
101 Mise en bouche 6b *** 36
102 Bullet the Blue Sky 7a ** 6
103 Des jours comme ça... 6c+ ** 3
104 Les doigts dans le nez 6c+ ** 2
105 California Dreamin' 6c+ ** 2
  DOWNSTAIRS (S)
107 Hors Saison 7a+ ** 1
108 Hors question (marked projet) 7b **  
109 Hors Piste 6c ** 1
110 Head-Banger 6c ** 1
111 Marc's Route (marked projet) 7b **  
112 Bienvenue en Suisse 8a+ **  
113 B 52 6c+ ** 1
114 La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs) 6c ** 1
  PYLONE upper (S)
116 Arielle 6c 1
  PYLONE lower (SE)
118 Fine Line
-
6c *** 8
119 Les golots du douanier
-
7a ** 2
120 Banane directe
-
6b * 8
121 Banane
-
6a ** 10
122 Les Sudistes
-
6b+ * 4
123 On va ramollir
-
6b+ * 7
124 La belle Zig
-
5c *** 8
125 Ca va pas plus vite...
-
6a+ *** 10
126 Honey Badger
-
6c *** 7
127 Le vent des câbles
-
6c *** 5
128 The ego has landed
-
7a+ * 1
129 Le contrebandier
-
6b+ ** 2
  SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)
131 Custom m'aide 7a+ *** 9
132 Si le lichen ne revenait pas 6c+ *** 4
133 Autoroute Blanche 6c *** 49
134 Cacao Girls 6a+ 67
  AFRIQUE (S)
136 Belles et Buts 7a+ ** 1
137 Dynomight 7b *** 2
138 Quel Festin 7a *** 10
139 Luce-Ifer 6a ** 21
140 L'Epicondylite 7a+ ** 2
141 Traitement de choc 7b+ ** 5
142 Psychothérapie - marked projet. 8a  
143 Physiothérapie 6c+ *** 11
144 Colimaçon 7a+ ** 6
145 Prestige 7b ** 3
146 Marée Noire 6c+ *** 6
147 L'Epée de Damocles 6c *** 27
148 Guillotine 7a *** 16
149 Djibouti 6c+ * 10
150 Découverte classique 6a * 16
151 Black Mamba 7b ** 2
152 Découverte Directe 6c *** 16
153 The Go-between 7a * 1
154 Charmant Dévers 6c *** 4
155 L'Escalator 6c ** 6
156 N'importe quoi
-
6b ** 13
157 L'Anormale 6b ** 16
158 Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb. 6c ** 10
159 Dalle qui m'aille 7b ** 2
160 Dure de dalle 7a+ * 2
  LA GORGE (SE + N)
162 Question d'égout 7a+ ** 1
163 Le Piège 6c ** 5
164 Mal à la gorge 6c+ 1
165 La Colombe et la Vie 7a+ ** 2
166 Mardis Gras 7a+ ** 2
167 Dimanche Noir 7c *** 2
168 Samedi Soir (sur la terre) 7c *** 2
169 Objectif Terre 7c+ *** 1
170 Dreamer 7b ** 8
171 Rêve de Singe 8a *** 5
172 Au Fil du Temps 7c *** 6
173 Senanga 7b ** 2
174 Sortiledge 6c ** 7
175 Le Sorcier 7c+ **  
176 L'Orage 7a+ * 2
Climb name Grade
177 The Full Monty 7a *** 6
178 Happy Birthday 6b * 3
179 Mystique 7c ** 1
180 In Absentia 7b *** 9
181 La Ligne 8a+ ***  
182 La Petite Ligne 8a *** 1
183 Cauchemar 8b ***  
  LA GRANDE FACE (SE)
185 Serial Hiker 6b+ * 2
186 Le Jardinier 8a **  
187 Mon Jardin Secret 7a+ *** 3
188 Goofy 7a+ *** 4
189 Gwendoline 6c+ ** 1
190 Petite Lune 7b+ *** 1
191 Summer Daze 7c *** 1
192 Fesse d'huîtres 6c *** 4
193 Pharaon Ailé 7c **  
194 Rage et désespoir 7a+ *** 3
195 Magie Blanche 7a *** 2
196 Pour le meilleur, pour le pire 7a *** 1
  SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)
198 Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte) 6b+ * 5
199 Harpie 6c * 2
200 Ganesh 6c+ ** 2
201 Game Over 6c+ * 5
202 Poisson d'avril 6c ** 6
203 Rage et désespoir (Hulotte) 6c ** 6
204 La Hulotte 7a+ ** 2
205 Bouge de là 7b ** 7
206 Causes Perdues 6c * 1
  SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)
208 No Time to Waste 7a ** 1
209 Le Mépris 7a ** 1
210 Who's next? 6c+ * 1
211 Sanguine 7b *** 1
212 Sans nom
-
6c *  
213 Voie Burnier 6c ** 1
214 Dégustation de Lichen 6c+ * 1
215 Gay Pied 6c ** 1
216 Courage Blanc 7b ** 1
  SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)
218 Silicose 6c  
219 Diagonale du fou 6b 1
220 Magnum Force 8a *  
  MICRO CLIMAT (N)
222 Ombres et Lumières 6c ** 2
223 The Dark Side 7a *** 2
224 Ténèbres 6b+ ** 4
225 A shoulder to cry on 6c *** 4
226 Coolmax 7b *** 1
227 Micro climax 7a+ *** 2
228 Micro climat 6c *** 5
229 Attention à la marche 6c *** 5
230 Length isn't everything 6c ** 4
231 Micro crotte 6a 2
  FAWLTY TOWERS (W)
233 Sybil 7a+ ** 1
234 Basil's brush job 7a+ *** 1
  BOUCHY (W + S + E)
236 Arêtica aesthetica 7b+ *** 1
237 Pas de bras, pas de bloc 7b ** 1
238 Tour de Force 7a+ *** 2
239 Demi-Tour 6c+ ** 2
240 Demi-Tour/Aesthetica 7a *** 2
241 Petite fleur 6b+ *** 3
242 Le Friend Manquant 7a ** 1
243 Check-in 6c+ *** 3
244 Crotte Monsieur 6c+ * 1
245 Bouchy Airlines 7b+ *** 1
246 De la Résine et des Ailes (proj) Project  
247 Pilot Error 7b **  
248 Le Grand Dièdre 6b+ *** 2
249 When the Levee Breaks 6b+ *** 3
250 Good Vibrations 7a *** 4
251 Arête Municipale 6c *** 2
252 La Plage 7b *** 1
  Avoid the next 11 routes. The gorge is exposed to flash flooding
254 Entracte 6c *** 2
255 Entre-temps 6b+ *** 2
256 Entre nous 6b+ ** 1
257 La Fissure 6b * 1
258 Le Pouce du Panda 6a 2
259 L'Index 4a 3
260 Le Petit Dièdre 5c * 1
261 Les Temoins 7a+ *** 2
262 Gorgeous 7b+ *** 1
263 Waterworld 6c 1
264 Pointe d'Interrogation 6b+ 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jon