Climbs 242
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1300m a.s.l
Faces all

Ben Potard, Au Fil du Temps, Giétroz Gorge © jon

Crag features

Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.
When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.
NOTES:
1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.
2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...
3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Approach notes

Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) Châtelard (CH) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

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Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  PASSET DU HAUT (SE)
2 Variant 6c  
3 Sue-Ellen 6b **  
4 Dallas
-
6c+ *** 1
5 JR
-
6a *** 2
6 Saga 6a+ *** 1
7 Clayton
-
6a+ **  
8 Bobby
-
5c * 2
9 Pam
-
5c 2
  passet du bas gauche (W and SE) (nos refer to Barberine topo)
11 La traversée du dragon (1) 6c ** 1
12 La mousson (2)
-
6a+ 1
13 Digue, dingue, donc (3)
-
6a+  
14 Le village englouti (4)
-
6b+ 2
15 Missing? (5) 6c  
16 Le cheval de Troie (6) 7b *  
17 Le cheval à bascule (7) 7a *  
18 Emotion à Emosson (8)
-
6b+ ** 1
19 Les tendres souhaites (9)
-
6a 2
20 Bonne nuit les petits (10) 6c ** 2
21 La cigale et la fourmi (11) 6a+ ** 4
22 Le Pas Obligatoire 6b ** 2
23 Poèmes et comptines (12) 6c+ ** 1
24 Pimprenelle
-
5a  
25 La poudre de perlinpinpin (13) 6c **  
26 Calins Nounours
-
4a  
27 Pin et chocolat (14) 6b **  
28 Sur un petit nuage (15)
-
5a ** 1
  PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) numbers refer to topo
30 A'louest rien de nouveau (1') 6a * 3
31 Le nouveau monde (1) 6c 1
32 Rocky mountain (2) 6c ** 3
33 Un air de Tenessee (3) 7a ** 1
34 Mystère U (4) 7b * 1
35 Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5) 6c+ *** 3
36 Lou garou (6) 6c *** 3
37 Camaïeu (7) 7a+ ** 1
38 Couleur pastel
-
6c  
39 Sous la loupe
-
6a 3
40 Rémus & Romulus
-
7a+  
41 Le petit chaperon rouge (8) 6c+ ** 1
42 P'tit loup (9) 6b * 3
  Main Face (S)
44 La Sylvie Phobie 6c+ ** 48
45 La Barbourine 6c+ *** 24
46 Mirrors on the Ceiling 7a *** 3
47 Vipère au Pied 6b+ ** 55
48 Méduse 7a ** 12
49 Le Fantôme de l'Opéra 6a+ * 3
50 Le Magicien d'Oz (voie Piola) 6b ** 31
51 Bon Voyage 7a ** 14
52 Balade au Bout des Combes 6c ** 6
53 La Tour de Chauffe 6c ** 4
  DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)
55 1 Dalles 2a  
56 Macaroni 5b * 13
57 Lefurer 6a+ ** 17
58 Befa 6a * 2
59 Le chef du live 5c 11
60 Artho 5c * 12
61 Pâté cornichons 5c 7
62 Nazzareth 5b 5
63 Fabrer 5c ** 8
64 JJain 6a * 7
65 La Routadam 6a * 6
66 11 Upper ledge 6a * 2
67 12 Upper ledge 6c ** 1
68 13 Upper ledge 6b * 3
69 14 Upper ledge 6a+ ** 5
70 15 Far R slab 6a 3
71 16 Far R slab 5c 2
72 17 Far R slab 5a 2
  LA ZONE (S)
74 Rando 6b ** 10
75 Balade...(1) 6b+ ** 7
76 Balade...(2) 6c ** 10
77 Le Voleur 6b ** 24
78 Ma Bête Noire 7b+ ** 1
79 Saloprises 7c+ ** 1
80 Lune de Miel 7a *** 9
81 Moonshine 6b+ *** 14
82 Ca roule, la Boule 6c+ *** 6
83 La Zone 6b+ *** 22
84 Talisman 7a+ ** 5
85 Touchstone 7a+ ** 1
86 Les doigts de passage 7b *** 1
87 Play it Again, Sam 7a+ *** 7
88 Sam's Route 7a *** 25
89 Génésis 6b+ ** 12
90 Génératrice 7b *** 3
91 Génocide 6b+ ** 6
92 Voie de la Souche 7a+ ** 1
93 Menhir 7c ** 1
94 Projet (Sam's) Project 2
95 Voie Martin 6b+ ** 16
96 Apéritif 6c ** 12
97 L'Inversée 6c+ *** 8
98 Fin de Saison 6c *** 11
99 Mise en bouche 6b *** 26
100 Bullet the Blue Sky 7a ** 6
101 Des jours comme ça... 6c+ ** 3
102 Les doigts dans le nez 6c+ ** 1
103 California Dreamin' 6c+ ** 2
  DOWNSTAIRS (S)
105 Hors Saison 7a+ ** 1
106 Hors question (marked projet) 7b **  
107 Hors Piste 6c ** 1
108 Head-Banger 6c ** 1
109 Marc's Route (marked projet) 7b **  
110 Xavier's Route 8a+ **  
111 B 52 6c+ ** 1
112 La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs) 6c ** 1
  PYLONE upper (S)
114 Arielle 6c 1
  PYLONE lower (SE)
116 Fine Line
-
6c *** 6
117 Les golots du douanier
-
7a ** 2
118 Banane directe
-
6b * 6
119 Banane
-
6a ** 7
120 Les Sudistes
-
6b+ * 3
121 On va ramollir
-
6b+ * 4
122 La belle Zig
-
5c *** 5
123 Ca va pas plus vite...
-
6a+ *** 5
124 Honey Badger
-
6c *** 5
125 Le vent des câbles
-
6c *** 4
126 The ego has landed
-
7a+ * 1
127 Le contrebandier
-
6b+ ** 2
  SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)
129 Custom m'aide 7a+ *** 5
130 Si le lichen ne revenait pas 6c+ *** 2
131 Autoroute Blanche 6c *** 31
132 Cacao Girls 6a+ 41
  AFRIQUE (S)
134 Belles et Buts 7a+ ** 1
135 Dynomight 7b *** 2
136 Quel Festin 7a *** 6
137 Luce-Ifer 6a ** 18
138 L'Epicondylite 7a+ ** 2
139 Traitement de choc 7b+ ** 4
140 Psychothérapie - marked projet. 8a  
141 Physiothérapie 6c+ *** 9
142 Colimaçon 7a+ ** 5
143 Prestige 7b ** 3
144 Marée Noire 6c+ *** 5
145 L'Epée de Damocles 6c *** 23
146 Guillotine 7a *** 14
147 Djibouti 6c+ * 8
148 Découverte classique 6a * 16
149 Black Mamba 7b ** 2
150 Découverte Directe 6c *** 12
151 The Go-between 7a * 1
152 Charmant Dévers 6c *** 4
153 L'Escalator 6c ** 6
154 N'importe quoi
-
6b ** 11
155 L'Anormale 6b ** 14
156 Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb. 6c ** 8
157 Dalle qui m'aille 7b ** 2
158 Dure de dalle 7a+ * 2
  LA GORGE (SE + N)
160 Question d'égout 7a+ ** 1
161 Le Piège 6c ** 5
162 Mal à la gorge 6c+ 1
163 La Colombe et la Vie 7a+ ** 2
164 Mardis Gras 7a+ ** 2
165 Dimanche Noir 7c *** 2
166 Samedi Soir (sur la terre) 7c *** 2
167 Objectif Terre 7c+ *** 1
168 Dreamer 7b ** 8
169 Rêve de Singe 8a *** 5
170 Au Fil du Temps 7c *** 7
171 Senanga 7b ** 2
172 Sortiledge 6c ** 7
173 Le Sorcier 7c+ **  
174 L'Orage 7a+ * 2
175 The Full Monty 7a *** 5
176 Happy Birthday 6b * 3
177 Mystique 7c ** 1
178 In Absentia 7b *** 10
179 La Ligne 8a+ ***  
180 La Petite Ligne 8a *** 1
181 Cauchemar 8b ***  
  LA GRANDE FACE (SE)
183 Serial Hiker 6b+ * 2
184 Le Jardinier 8a **  
185 Mon Jardin Secret 7a+ *** 3
186 Goofy 7a+ *** 4
187 Gwendoline 6c+ ** 1
188 Petite Lune 7b+ *** 1
189 Summer Daze 7c *** 1
190 Fesse d'huîtres 6c *** 3
191 Pharaon Ailé 7c **  
192 Rage et désespoir 7a+ *** 3
193 Magie Blanche 7a *** 2
194 Pour le meilleur, pour le pire 7a *** 1
  SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)
196 Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte) 6b+ * 5
197 Harpie 6c * 2
198 Ganesh 6c+ ** 2
199 Game Over 6c+ * 5
200 Poisson d'avril 6c ** 5
201 Rage et désespoir (Hulotte) 6c ** 4
202 La Hulotte 7a+ ** 2
203 Bouge de là 7b ** 4
204 Causes Perdues 6c * 1
  SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)
206 No Time to Waste 7a ** 1
207 Le Mépris 7a ** 1
208 Who's next? 6c+ * 1
209 Sanguine 7b *** 1
210 Sans nom
-
6c *  
211 Voie Burnier 6c ** 1
212 Dégustation de Lichen 6c+ * 1
213 Gay Pied 6c ** 1
214 Courage Blanc 7b ** 1
  SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)
216 Silicose 6c  
217 Diagonale du fou 6b 1
218 Magnum Force 8a *  
  MICRO CLIMAT (N)
220 Ombres et Lumières 6c ** 2
221 The Dark Side 7a *** 3
222 Ténèbres 6b+ ** 4
223 A shoulder to cry on 6c *** 4
224 Coolmax 7b *** 1
225 Micro climax 7a+ *** 2
226 Micro climat 6c *** 4
227 Attention à la marche 6c *** 3
228 Length isn't everything 6c ** 3
229 Micro crotte 6a 1
  FAWLTY TOWERS (W)
231 Sybil 7a+ ** 1
232 Basil's brush job 7a+ *** 1
  BOUCHY (W + S + E)
234 Arêtica aesthetica 7b+ *** 1
235 Pas de bras, pas de bloc 7b ** 1
236 Tour de Force 7a+ *** 2
237 Demi-Tour 6c+ ** 2
238 Demi-Tour/Aesthetica 7a *** 1
239 Petite fleur 6b+ *** 2
240 Le Friend Manquant 7a ** 1
241 Check-in 6c+ *** 3
242 Crotte Monsieur 6c+ * 1
243 Bouchy Airlines 7b+ *** 1
244 De la Résine et des Ailes (proj) Project  
245 Pilot Error 7b **  
246 Le Grand Dièdre 6b+ *** 2
247 When the Levee Breaks 6b+ *** 3
248 Good Vibrations 7a *** 4
249 Arête Municipale 6c *** 2
250 La Plage 7b *** 1
  Avoid the next 11 routes. The gorge is exposed to flash flooding
252 Entracte 6c *** 2
253 Entre-temps 6b+ *** 2
254 Entre nous 6b+ ** 1
255 La Fissure 6b * 1
256 Le Pouce du Panda 6a 2
257 L'Index 4a 3
258 Le Petit Dièdre 5c * 1
259 Les Temoins 7a+ *** 2
260 Gorgeous 7b+ *** 1
261 Waterworld 6c 1
262 Pointe d'Interrogation 6b+ 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jon