Climbs 17
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 61m a.s.l
Faces NW

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The thin and technical 'Heuthanasia' at Balgone Heughs. © Fraser

Crag features

Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting, only 25 minutes walk from North Berwick Law. bolts replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue ins and many new lines added Autumn 2013

Approach notes

Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. From here follow the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm.

Bear left round the main barns and the crag should be visible just ahead on the opposite side of a sheltered valley.

25 minutes brisk march.

Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.

Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.

Awesome addition to East Lothian. Lots of harder lines. I'll need to do some press ups before I return! Welldone on developing the crag.
robahalliday - 06/Jul/15
08.03.15. Hangers on Bullrush tightened and Ivy wall routes routes given a little tidy. Crag very dry and sheltered from the south westerlies.
sebrider - 08/Mar/15
Crag was nice and dry on 28.2.15. Lots of snowdrops in the woods. There are a couple of loose hangers on Bullrush I will tighten on my next visit. Nothing has changed on this route since I bolted it, grade still 6c, definitely not 7! Looks like there may be a bit of moss creeping onto the Ivy wall, will get a brush on that next time too.
sebrider - 01/Mar/15
I got in touch with James, no problems until the Pheasant shooting which starts on 1st Oct. As stated above there is now a climbing ban in place from 1st Oct to 1st Feb. Please respect this. Thanks, Seb
sebrider - 22/Aug/14
Hiya. Shooting season starts on the 12th August so access may be restricted at this crag. For your own safety ask the locals before climbing. Being accidentally shot in the bahookie may hamper your climbing. x
Gordie - 05/Aug/14
Bikes make for a swift approach. Situation was lovely, though out come the biters as the sun goes down. The rock is a suspect, but that'll only get better with traffic, and still really fun climbing despite. Excellent addition to near by law, go.
salix - 17/Jun/14
For closed projects flowers should be left at the bottom and not climbed. As below, the 'open' projects are the old routes that were there before. There may be bolts here and there missing on these routes. The old bolts were very easy to cut on other routes! Climb away or bolt away.
sebrider - 15/May/14
Gordie the open projects have not been reclimbed recently. They possible had FAs about 15/20 years ago when they were bolted.
radioshed - 14/May/14
Please excuse my ignorance but what does "respect closed projects" mean? Should I leave flowers or not Climb on them. Also is an open project unfinished?
Gordie - 12/May/14
A demoralising pile of rubble that perfectly blends the aesthetics of the worst Peak limestone crag with the rock quality of the worst Central Belt quarry. HOWEVER the climbing is actually quite good fun, and it's a far better use of bolts than any retro-bolting nonsense in the Central Belt. Go on a dry breezy day and drop a star or so from every route and your expectations and it will be pretty worthwhile. Walk has been timed at 25 minutes brisk march.
Fiend - 10/May/14
Good addition to the area, routes climb nice and are bolted really well! The quality of the rock adds a sporty feel to some of the lines. Ivy wall and the Curling pond looked wet and green, I hope they dry out for summer,nice work
TILLY - 26/Apr/14
Cleaned Curling Pond today, hopefully a bit of wind and rain will do the finishing touches. Despite our best efforts there is still an amount of crumbly rock around. The rock quality on the crag varies from good to consistency akin to hobnobs! Climb carefully and bring a helmet. The climbing should be nice once the routes settle a bit!! Crag was mostly dry today.
sebrider - 29/Mar/14
Good effort on the gardening guys! Projects look good too. Plenty of loose rock around so best to belay comfortably from one side…..
apollo18 - 04/Dec/13
This crag is in a really nice and quiet estate. The landowner, who is open to the crag being used for climbing, wishes for it to stay that way! Please respect his generosity and request that UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES TAKE ANY CARS INTO THE ESTATE! Thanks.
sebrider - 30/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Buttress
2 Heuthanasia 7a+ ** 19
3 Heugh know nothing (Jon Snow) 6c ** 14
4 The Entheughsiast 7a * 3
5 Statement of Heuth 7a+ *** 22
6 Heugh and Cry 7a ** 14
Climb name Grade
  Overhang buttress
8 Red ramp (open project) 6b * 1
  Hinge Buttress
10 The Wanderer 6b+ ** 35
  Right Hand Buttress
12 Ivy Wall 5c * 57
13 The Curling Pond 6a ** 56
Climb name Grade
14 The Wasp Direct 6c ** 3
15 The Wasp 6b ** 51
16 Pheasant Corner 6a+ ** 49
17 Overhanging line 1 (open project) Project  
18 Overhanging line 2 (open project) Project  
19 Mr Fox 6c+ ** 5
20 Heughvenile Antics 6c+ *** 31
21 Bullrush 6c ** 16

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