Climbs 40
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 234m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Craggs on the pleasant La lune sur la montagne (4c) on Tower 1 at Fenouillet. © Sherri Davy

Crag features

Something a little different, a gneiss crag in a 'gneiss' setting with a good spread of grades, and only minutes from the car. Although only a minor venue, its accessibility makes it worth including here. Some of the rock is a bit loose, but all the routes listed have been well cleaned and well-travelled. There is also some bouldering (mattresses in-situ) on the blocks passed on the way to the cliff.

The crags face pretty much all directions of the compass so sun and shade should always be available. The cliffs take no drainage so dry fast, though the trees around the crag base encourage humidity and insect life.

Approach notes

Fenouillet is situated on the crest of the hill of the same name, 3km north west of Hyères. This is 18km due east of the centre of Toulon and is most easily reached via the A570 motorway which branches southeast off the A57 heading for St. Tropez. Exit at junction 7, signed 'La Bayorre and La Crau'. Turn left over the motorway and then right onto the Route de Toulon. 1.5km along the Avenue de Toulon (Route de Toulon on its western end), just west of Hyères, a minor road (the Chemin du Fenouillet) turns northwards uphill. This is signed to 'Notre Dame Chapelle' (4km) and is to the right of the cake shop/bakery of 'Le Moulin de la Poterie'. The minor road weaves up to the top of the hill, where a left turn and undulating section of road leads to parking on a col. The towers with the routes on are northeast of the parking (back over your right shoulder), about 5 mins walk though the trees.

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
The last 1.5km of road to the crag is sometimes closed to cars in dry weather due to fire risk. There is a small parking spot just downhill from the barrier, if you're up to the walk.
timhewison - 23/Jul/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tower One
2 Perro...Chon 6b *  
3 Perro...Nez 7a *  
4 Perro...Xydé 6c+ **  
5 Perro...Dactyle 8b **  
6 Perro...Quai 8a+ **  
7 Ah! Pero 7a+ **  
8 Perro...Pode 7c *  
9 Le Chien Quoi! 7a *  
10 Le Plan Seldon 6a+ 1
11 Hum! Un Grenouille? 5c 1
12 Autant de Fourmis 5a 1
13 La Velours de l'Immensité 5c 1
14 La Lune sur la Montagne 4c * 1
15 Dimanche Soir 4a * 2
16 Désolé Cédric 4c * 2
17 Plat Moussu 4a  
18 Araignée du Soir 4c  
19 Vu sur Chèvre 4c *  
20 Fleche 6a+  
21 Blanche 6a+  
22 Ténébreuse 5c * 1
23 Roi Hastur 6b *  
24 Le Point de Non-Retour 6b **  
  Tower Two
26 Sarbacane d'éléphant 6b+ **  
27 Oasis 5c **  
28 Larcin pour Rien 5c  
29 Ma Vieille Corde 5a *  
30 Miséri...Corde 5a *  
31 La Chouette 6a+ *  
32 El Condor Pasa 5a  
33 Le Trou de la Choutte 6b+ **  
34 Sleppy Ollow 6a **  
35 Le Grimpeur san Tête 6a+ **  
  Tower Three
37 Au Cap des 32 6a+ **  
38 La Bulle à Nico 5a *  
39 Ma Gazelle 5c *  
40 Doigt d'Acier en Inversé Majeur 5c ***  
41 L'arête du Cube 6c *  
42 Le Bout du Monde 6c  
43 Go to the Pub 5c  

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