Altitude 10m a.s.l
Mr Mills on the second ascent of How to Read the Air © tat
the BMC access officer for Cymru has discussed access with the National Trust:
The walls and slabs reach 52 meters in places .
The top 20 metres of the walls and slabs are vegetated and easy angled in places so at present resin lower off anchors are being placed at the 20--25 meter point to allow leaders to lower off at the point where the good rock ends . These anchors have not been placed to facilitate toproping. This quarry should only be used by experienced climbers due to the unstable nature of the top sections .
Also being so close to the town it is advisable not to make a nuisance of ourselves etc
Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.
|Absolutely cracking venue for catching the early morning sunshine! Rock is for the most part solid other than the line of Zeus which is loose in places..|
Samuel Wainwright - 29/Nov/12
|1||How To Read The Air||6b+ *||7|
|2||Vapour Phase||6b **||18|
|3||Fractured Mind||7c *||1|
|4||The Thirty Year Storm||6b+ *||13|
|5||The Poisoned Dwarf||E2 5c||1|
|6||Southfork||HVS 5a *||3|
|7||King of the Wild Frontier||VS 4c *||23|
|8||Tennessee Militia||E1 5c||4|
|9||Broken Arrow||HVS 5a *||5|
|10||Davy Crocket||VS 4b||1|
|11||It's Looking Good Houston||VS 4b||1|
|12||Ethical Cruise||E2 5b|
|13||Hollywood Playboy||7c+ **||1|
|16||Chough Justice||6c **||7|
|17||Total Perspective Vortex||E1 5b||4|
|18||Zeus Direct||E3 5c||1|
|21||Actio Extention||V5 **||3|
|22||Pull Up's make you strong||V4 ***||3|
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