Climbs 32
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

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Mr Mills on the second ascent of How to Read the Air © tat

Crag features

the BMC access officer for Cymru has discussed access with the National Trust:
The walls and slabs reach 52 meters in places .
The top 20 metres of the walls and slabs are vegetated and easy angled in places so at present resin lower off anchors are being placed at the 20--25 meter point to allow leaders to lower off at the point where the good rock ends . These anchors have not been placed to facilitate toproping. This quarry should only be used by experienced climbers due to the unstable nature of the top sections .
Also being so close to the town it is advisable not to make a nuisance of ourselves etc

Access Advice

Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Absolutely cracking venue for catching the early morning sunshine! Rock is for the most part solid other than the line of Zeus which is loose in places..
Samuel Wainwright - 29/Nov/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 How To Read The Air 6b+ * 8
2 Vapour Phase 6b ** 19
3 Fractured Mind 7c * 2
4 The Thirty Year Storm 6b+ * 14
5 The Poisoned Dwarf E2 5c 1
6 Southfork HVS 5a * 3
7 King of the Wild Frontier VS 4c * 23
8 Tennessee Militia E1 5c 4
9 Broken Arrow HVS 5a * 5
10 Davy Crocket VS 4b 1
11 It's Looking Good Houston VS 4b 1
Climb name Grade
12 Ethical Cruise E2 5b  
13 Hollywood Playboy 7c+ ** 1
14 Columbia 6a * 23
15 Djinn Palace 5c 3
16 Chough Justice 6c ** 7
17 Total Perspective Vortex E1 5b 4
18 Zeus Direct E3 5c 1
19 Zeus E4 5c 2
20 Actio V5 * 6
21 Actio Extention V5 ** 4
22 Pull Up's make you strong V4 *** 4
Climb name Grade
23 Hollywood Diva V1 ** 3
24 Diva's little sister V0+ ** 3
25 Hollywood Mistress V3 ** 2
26 Hollywood Slave V3 * 1
27 One for Wimps VB * 2
28 Diva Arete V1 * 2
29 Black Mamba f7B+ *** 3
30 Beyond Friction f7C+ *** 1
31 Hyrax f6A * 3
32 Copperhead Road V4 6b 2

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