Climbs 5
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces all

Maiden Rock, St Andrews © Jonninho

Crag features

Obvious sandstone (Soft!) pinnacle on the coast S/E of St Andrews.

Rock is soft sandstone, with numerous pockets/scars, and is quite friable, with some loose sections. Several routes up on all aretes and faces. S/E arete is only recorded route (Sev)

Because of the soft and friable nature of the rock, trad gear placements should be viewed with suspicion, and their likliehood to damage the rock should be taken into consideration.

Toproping is an alternative, although please make sure you rig the karabiners over the edge and use a rope protector (or a bag) to prevent unnecessary damage to the rock.

Popular with local boulderers, but needs a mat as landing is on large pebbles.

Approach notes

Follow the coastal path from St Andrews east sands towards Crail - about 15 minutes walk. The top of the rock is just visible from the path, and some overgrown stone steps lead down to the beach.

Worth a messabout if you're out for a dander, rock is surprisingly decent.
Andy Moles - 21/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Arete (South East)
S 12
Climb name Grade
2 Arete (North East) VD 11
Climb name Grade
3 Girdle traverse f4+ 4

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