UKC

Climbs 30
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 3914m a.s.l
Faces all

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Looking back on the famous arete in perfect snow conditions © stevepotter

Crag features

Mont Maudit (“Cursed Mountain”) is a striking 4000er in the Mont Blanc range, offering classic alpine terrain with snow, ice, and mixed routes. It’s best known for the legendary Kuffner Ridge (D, 4c) – a long, exposed alpine traverse with stunning views and sustained climbing. The North Slope (PD+) is a popular snow route, often used on the Trois Monts route to Mont Blanc.

 

More technical lines like the Crétier Route (TD-) and Fille ou Garçon (TD) offer solitude and challenge on the SE face. Approaches are typically from the Aiguille du Midi, or Helbroner. The bivouac at the Fourche Hut collapsed on August 26, 2022, after the rock it was anchored to gave way in a rockslide.

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Climbs at this crag

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