Climbs 40
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

The Barn Lode. © wojtt

Crag features

A major venue for climbers above VS level, offering multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. A naturally beautiful setting in a huge zawn, remarkably close to Bosigran. In a sense, it is Cornwall's version of Huntsman's Leap (qv Pembroke) though without the tide, but much less sheltered. Classics include Desolation Row (E2 5b), Xanadu (E2 5b), Dream (E3), Liberator (E5) and the Dream-Liberator Connection (E3).

Approach notes

Non-tidal but beware heavy swells.
Park at the NT car park off the B3306 (by the mine-stack ruins). Follow the path down to a junction with the coastal path: go L. Follow the coast path from the small bridge above the ruined mine buildings above Porthmoina Cove. Climb with it steeply uphill to a levelling, and then cross a stile. Pass Bosigran Ridge on the R, and on through a low boulder wall. Follow the path (sometimes overgrown with bracken) seawards down a grassy depression, to the edge of Great Zawn.
Facing out, continue along the Zawn's R edge and down the stepped grassy terrace, to reach an abseil spike. Requires 130-ft rope, to reach the steep grassy slopes of the upper Zawn.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal restrictions apply to all routes during the nesting period for nesting Razorbills, Guillemots, Cormorants and Kittiwakes.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Variety Show HVS 5a ** 173
2 Zarathustra
-
E2 5b * 14
3 Green Cormorant Face E2 5c ** 69
4 Deja Vu E4 5c *** 35
5 Green Cormorant Ledge Traverse
-
HVS 5a * 1
6 The Dream
-
E3 6a *** 12
7 Canute
-
E4 6a * 1
8 Liberator
-
E4 6a *** 10
9 Dream Liberator E3 6a *** 139
10 Fool's Lode
-
E5 6a * 1
11 The West Face E5 6b *** 22
12 Opium/Captivator
-
E6 6c **  
13 The Girdle Traverse
-
E2 5c *  
14 Something in the Air
-
E3 5c *  
15 Desolation Row E2 5b ** 105
16 Hurricane
-
E4 6a *  
17 Candy Man
-
E1 5c * 23
18 Scalpel HVS 5a * 1
19 Fated
-
E5 6b **  
20 Prophecy
-
E5 6b ** 1
21 Omen
-
E2 5b * 16
22 Dead Lucky
-
E4 6b *  
23 Free SPirit
-
E4 6a *  
24 High SPirits
-
E4 6a *  
25 Judas E1 5b * 6
26 Kubla Khan
-
E3 6a ** 1
27 Xanadu E2 5b *** 66
28 Ivory Tower
-
VS 4b 1
29 Shape Shifter
-
HVS 5a 4
30 Ocean Rain E2 5b 2
31 Great Zawn Chimney
-
E1 5a 2
32 Three Score Years and Ten, Amen E6 6b **  
33 Exit Route HS 4a 6
34 Tangled Up In Blue HVS 5a 1
35 The Barn Lode E5 6b *** 2
36 Liberator-Dream * E4 6a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die