Climbs 14
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sophie Nunn on the Lunchtime bouldering, Swanage © scott titt

Crag features

A small, secluded outcrop of superbly textured limestone, a stone's throw from Swanage town centre. The bouldering is found at the very tip of Peveril Point and overlooks the tidal race that forms around the headland. The atmosphere is very pleasant and is an ideal location for a summer evening session. Fossils such as turtle shell, and shark and crocodile teeth can be found on the beach and the ledges above the bouldering, and it is not uncommon to share the beach with amateur palaeontologists and their geology hammers.

A dozen straight-up problems have been described, though there is plenty of scope for eliminates and traverses. Although flat, the landings are rocky and a bouldering mat is essential. It is hoped that documenting this venue will take the pressure off the Agglestone.

Approach notes

Drive through the centre of Swanage. At the end of the High Street follow the signposts to the pier car park (fee). Free parking may be found in the back streets, though try to park considerately. Walk east along the tarmac road from the car park. A path leads past the coastguard station to the rocky beach. The bouldering is to the right (looking out).

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hybodus f6A * 12
2 Lepidotes f5+ * 17
3 Unio f5+ ** 16
4 Valvata f6A * 9
5 Toad's Eye f6B+ * 6
Climb name Grade
6 Cinder Bed f6B+ * 5
7 Red Rag f6B+ * 5
8 Viviparus f6A * 5
9 Viviparus Sit-Start f7A * 1
10 Chief Beef Member f6C ** 5
Climb name Grade
11 Hot Shot f6C+ ** 3
12 Soft Cockle Bed f6A * 6
13 Tac Tac Boom f6B * 1
14 Corbula f6B * 7

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