Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces NE

Playful Climbing At A Serious Height - On The FA Of Archaeopteryx © Mark Von Rankine

Crag features

A large stretch of rock, just below the headland consisting of a few excellent bays and a large amount of choss. However, the bays of good rock are excellent, and provide a number of impressive features in an exposed location.


This is a surprisingly ultra-high quality wall, with a good collection of highball routes/solos. It is best approached by following the track that breaks off the bend in the road and following it for 2 fields to the edge of the cliff. Continue right, down a little dip and past a wind-swept hawthorn tree. The crag is just here and takes about 10 mins to walk to from the bend.

Moves are generally extremely beta-dependent and exquisite. Despite the regular patterning of the wall, the moves are varied in style and sequences can be pretty sustained. The home of strong fingers, body position and footwork. The holds will likely need a brush prior to an ascent.

There are three stakes in-situ which cover all the routes on Pex Wall.

Approach notes

Park in Goldsborough and walk in via a track through a field to the east. Once on the Cleveland way, turn right and the best rock is just below the path.


No guides found for this crag

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Red Wall 
2Sky BurialE10 6b ***2
3Sunrise Wall (project)E12 7a/b?  
 White Wall 
5Splice the MainbraceE5 6a 1
6The Maiden's Bluff
 Pex Wall 
8JugendstilE5 6b *4
9JungfrauE6 6b 1
10Iron MaidenE6 6c 2
11ArchaeopteryxE6 6c **3
12PlasticmanE7 7a **1
13Scratch in the SandE6 6c **1
14Futuristic Hering Gull ProjectE8 7a? ***4
15Maiden's Wall ProjectE8 7b? *** 
 Deer Walls 
 Northern Shelf 
 North Cliff 

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson