Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces NE

Playful Climbing At A Serious Height - On The FA Of Archaeopteryx © Mark Von Rankine

Crag features

A large stretch of rock, just below the headland consisting of a few excellent bays and a large amount of choss. However, the bays of good rock are excellent, and provide a number of impressive features in an exposed location.


This is a surprisingly ultra-high quality wall, with a good collection of highball routes/solos. It is best approached by following the track that breaks off the bend in the road and following it for 2 fields to the edge of the cliff. Continue right, down a little dip and past a wind-swept hawthorn tree. The crag is just here and takes about 10 mins to walk to from the bend.

Moves are generally extremely beta-dependent and exquisite. Despite the regular patterning of the wall, the moves are varied in style and sequences can be pretty sustained. The home of strong fingers, body position and footwork. The holds will likely need a brush prior to an ascent.

There are three stakes in-situ which cover all the routes on Pex Wall.

Approach notes

Park in Goldsborough and walk in via a track through a field to the east. Once on the Cleveland way, turn right and the best rock is just below the path.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Red Wall
2 Sky Burial E10 6b *** 2
3 Sunrise Wall (project) E12 7a/b?  
  White Wall
5 Splice the Mainbrace E5 6a 1
6 Three Sheets To The Wind E5 6a  
7 Insemination Wall E3 6b *  
Climb name Grade
8 The Maiden's Bluff
  Pex Wall
10 Jugendstil E5 6b * 4
11 Jungfrau E6 6b 1
12 Iron Maiden E6 6c 2
13 Archaeopteryx E6 6c ** 3
14 Plasticman E7 6c ** 1
Climb name Grade
15 Scratch in the Sand E6 6c ** 1
16 Futuristic Hering Gull Project E8 7a? *** 2
17 Space Train Project E8 7b? ***  
  Deer Walls
  Northern Shelf
  North Cliff

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