Climbs 89
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 215m a.s.l
Faces S

Kevin in flight from Cockblock. © stuart100

Crag features

A long crag with many excellent multi-pitch routes, and some single-pitch gems, up to 370ft. Beware vagabond suicidal sheep and slippery non-pitches; many people abseil off after a couple of pitches as some routes deteriorate in character towards the end.

Usually less crowded than the Cromlech on any given day, with enough offerings in the VS-HVS range to accommodate plenty of parties.

Routes to do include Phantom Rib (VS 4c), Spectre (HVS 5a), Slape Direct (E1 5c) and for the tough the fierce testpiece Cockblock (E5 6b).

Approach notes

Easily reached up the scree slopes from the road; the main problem is finding somewhere to park in the Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
Any comments on the following routes for the forthcoming guide? God told me to do it Spectrological arete - unprotected E5 6a when climbed from the deck? This route was originally supposed to ave been climbed from bottom of the arete and graded E2. Something doesn't stack up! Comments FB madonna - E grade comments Pus- any ascents ? Pump direct E grade Wang E4 or E3
dai lampard - 10/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Nea
2 Bogtrotting E4 6a * 1
3 The Yuppification of Deiniolen E4 6b * 1
4 Grochanspiel E1 5b 2
5 Delphos
-
HVS 5a * 29
6 Last of the Summer, Whine
-
HVS 5a 3
7 Hazel Groove
-
HS 4b * 75
8 Hazel Groove, Direct Start
-
VS 4b 19
9 Phantom Rib VS 4c ** 1152
10 Wang
-
E3 6b * 3
11 Nea VS 4b ** 1302
12 God Told Me to Do It
-
E5 6a  
13 The Revenge
-
E2 5c 1
14 The Vendetta
-
E1 5b * 13
15 Spectre HVS 5a *** 888
16 FB Madonna
-
E5 6b 2
17 Spectrum E2 5c *** 183
18 Spectrological Arete
-
E3 5c  
19 C Minor
-
E2 5c 3
20 Pus
-
E4 6b * 4
21 Strapiombo Direct
-
E2 5c * 5
22 Strapiombo
-
HVS 5b * 8
23 Goat's Gully
-
VS 4b 2
  Brant Direct
25 The Scapegoat
-
E1 5b 1
26 Cunning Stunts
-
E3 5c 13
27 S S Special E2 5b *** 565
28 S S special / Sickle E1 5b 12
29 Sickle HVS 5b ** 261
30 Venturi Effect E5 6a * 9
31 Brant Direct HVS 5a *** 1201
32 Cockblock E5 6b *** 76
33 Dried Voices
-
E5 6b 3
34 The Pump E4 6b ** 34
35 Plus 4
-
E4 6a 5
36 Slape Direct E2 5c ** 370
37 First Amendment E2 5c ** 199
38 First Amendment 1st pitch only E1 5c 23
39 Horizontal Departure
-
E4 5c  
40 Brant VS 4c ** 746
41 Corruption
-
E3 6a 10
42 Surplomb
-
E2 6a ** 142
43 Pus in Boots
-
E3 6a 2
44 Surplomb, Right-hand Finish
-
E4 6a * 1
45 Slape
-
VS 5a * 71
  Kaisergebirge Wall
47 Roll On
-
E3 5c * 12
48 Stroll On E3 6a *** 312
49 Hangover E1 5b *** 463
50 The Glum E2 5c  
51 Leftover
-
E3 6a * 15
52 Quasar E3 6a *** 219
53 Quantum Jump
-
E5 6b 24
54 Mural
-
E4 6a * 58
55 Mural, Scavenger's Daughter Finish
-
E4 6a *  
56 Karwendel Wall HVS 5b ** 342
57 Al Fresco
-
E4 6a 2
58 Kaisergebirge Wall HVS 5b ** 513
59 Wind HVS 5b ** 532
60 Advert
-
E3 5c 3
61 Babel
-
HVS 5a 26
62 Second Wind
-
E4 6a  
63 Ledge Way
-
VD 3
64 Central Gully
-
HS 4a 2
65 Central Gully, Left-hand Variation
-
VS 4b  
66 Central Gully, Super-Direct
-
HVS 5b  
67 N'Gombo
-
E1 5a 9
68 Long Tree Gate
-
VS 4c 13
69 Fear and Loathing
-
E1 5a  
70 Toots Direction
-
E3 6a 1
71 Ochre Groove
-
E1 5b * 32
72 Gizzard Puke
-
E1 5b  
73 Slime Wall
-
VS 4c 1
74 Broad Walk
-
VS 4c 2
75 Perygl
-
E4 6a  
76 The Worst Route I've Ever Done
-
E2 5a  
77 Scrambler's Gate
-
S 3c 19
78 Jawbone
-
E3 5c  
79 Fa
-
S 4a 1
80 Fatha
-
VS 4b  
81 Drama Queen
-
HS 4b  
82 Control Freak
-
E1 5b  
83 Ground Zero
-
E1 5b  
84 The Gorse Course
-
VS 4c 2
85 Divertimento
-
E2 5c 1
86 Sunset Boulevard
-
HVS 5a 5
87 Bluebell Traverse
-
S 4a 1
88 Cauldron Gully
-
IV 3
89 Little Groover
-
E1 5b 27
90 Unamed crack VS 2
91 Pokey Little Puppy E6 6b * 3

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