Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 100
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 215m a.s.l
Faces S

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Kevin in flight from Cockblock. © stuart100

Crag features

A long crag with many excellent multi-pitch routes, and some single-pitch gems, up to 115m in length. Beware vagabond suicidal sheep and slippery non-pitches; many people abseil off after a couple of pitches as some routes deteriorate in character towards the end.
Usually less crowded than the Cromlech on any given day, with enough offerings in the VS-E5 range to accommodate plenty of parties.

Approach notes

Easily reached up the scree slopes from the road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bwtres Bach
2 Pokey Little Puppy E6 6b * 5
3 Little Groover E1 5b ** 31
4 Rylie Bosvil E5 6c **  
  Yuppification Buttress
6 Bogtrotting E4 6a * 1
7 The Yuppification of Deiniolen E4 6b * 1
8 Grochanspiel E1 5b 2
  Goat Buttress
10 Febrile Lustre
-
E3 5c *  
11 Where The Sheep Have No Shame
-
E2 5c  
12 Chirpy Burpy Cheap Sheep
-
E1 5b  
13 Delphos
-
HVS 5a * 26
14 Last of the Summer, Whine
-
HVS 5a 3
15 Hazel Groove
-
HS 4b * 85
16 Hazel Groove, Direct Start
-
VS 4b 22
17 Wang
-
E3 6b * 5
18 The Great Hack E8 6c *  
19 Phantom Rib VS 4c ** 1320
  Nea
21 Nea VS 4b ** 1496
22 God Told Me to Do It
-
E5 6a  
23 The Revenge
-
E2 5c 1
24 The Vendetta
-
E1 5b * 13
25 Spectre HVS 5a *** 973
26 FB Madonna
-
E5 6b 2
27 Spectrum E2 5c *** 226
28 Spectrological Arete
-
E3 5c 2
29 C Minor
-
E2 5c 3
30 Pus
-
E4 6b * 4
31 Strapiombo Direct
-
E2 5c * 5
32 Strapiombo
-
HVS 5b * 11
33 Goat's Gully
-
VS 4b 2
34 The Scapegoat
-
E1 5b 3
  Central Buttress
36 Cunning Stunts
-
E3 5c 16
Climb name Grade
37 S S Special E2 5b *** 711
38 S S special / Sickle E1 5b 17
39 The Hammer
-
E3 5c *  
40 Sickle HVS 5b ** 297
41 Venturi Effect E5 6a * 10
42 Brant Direct HVS 5a *** 1387
43 The Rising Son E8 6c *** 1
44 Cockblock E5 6b *** 98
45 Dried Voices
-
E6 6b 3
46 The Pump E4 6b ** 37
47 Plus 4
-
E4 6a 6
48 Slape Direct E2 5c ** 442
49 First Amendment E2 5c ** 232
50 First Amendment 1st pitch only E1 5c 37
51 Horizontal Departure
-
E4 5c  
52 Brant VS 4c ** 817
53 Corruption
-
E3 6a 11
54 Surplomb
-
E2 6a ** 159
55 Pus in Boots
-
E3 6a 2
56 Surplomb, Right-hand Finish
-
E4 6a * 2
57 Slape
-
VS 5a * 84
58 Roll On
-
E3 5c * 16
59 Stroll On E3 6a *** 362
60 Hangover E1 5b *** 544
61 The Glum E2 5c  
62 Leftover
-
E3 6a * 17
63 Quasar E3 6a *** 268
64 Quantum Jump
-
E5 6b ** 35
65 Mural
-
E3 6a * 67
66 Mural, Scavenger's Daughter Finish
-
E4 6a * 1
67 Karwendel Wall HVS 5b ** 409
68 Al Fresco
-
E4 6a 3
69 Kaisergebirge Wall HVS 5b ** 596
70 Wind HVS 5b ** 648
71 Advert
-
E3 5c 3
72 Babel
-
HVS 5a * 29
Climb name Grade
73 Second Wind
-
E4 6a  
74 Big Bird
-
E5 6a *  
75 Ledge Way
-
VD 3
76 Central Gully
-
HS 4a 2
77 Central Gully, Left-hand Variation
-
VS 4b  
78 Central Gully, Super-Direct
-
HVS 5b 1
  Lone Tree Buttress
80 House of Shards
-
E5 6a *  
81 N'Gombo
-
E1 5a 13
82 Long Tree Gate
-
VS 4c 14
83 Fear and Loathing
-
E1 5a  
84 Toots Direction
-
E3 6a 1
85 Ochre Groove
-
E1 5b * 36
86 Gizzard Puke
-
E1 5b  
87 Slime Wall
-
VS 4c 1
88 Broad Walk
-
VS 4c 2
89 Pantheon
-
E3 5c **  
90 Broadmoor VII 8 1
91 Perygl
-
E4 6a  
92 The Worst Route I've Ever Done
-
E2 5a  
93 Scrambler's Gate
-
S 3c 20
  East Wing
95 Jawbone
-
E3 5c  
96 Motholode
-
E2 5b *  
97 Fathaland
-
E2 5c *  
98 Fa
-
S 4a 1
99 Fatha
-
VS 4b  
100 Drama Queen
-
HS 4b  
101 Control Freak
-
E1 5b  
102 Ground Zero
-
E1 5b  
103 The Gorse Course
-
VS 4c 2
104 Divertimento
-
E2 5c 3
105 Sunset Boulevard
-
HVS 5a 5
106 Bluebell Traverse
-
S 4a 1
107 Cauldron Gully
-
IV 5

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