Climbs 50
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 181m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset from above Craig Ddu, Llanberis Pass © mr mills

Crag features

Black rock which often looks wet (and can be slow to dry out). Steep, despite appearances. A serious cliff though the rock is fine. Multi-pitch routes up to 230ft, notably Zig-Zag (VS 4b), Black Wall (E1 5c) and Yellow Wall (E2 5b). Also a huge HS traverse, The Black Belt.

Approach notes

Given its position just above Beudy-Mawr near the bottom of the Llanberis Pass, car parking may be hard. Slog up from the road.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
1300 m above sea level seems quite high.
Deek - 04/Mar/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  mabinogion area
2 Crankshaft(not actually the name) HVS 5b 2
3 Telegram Sam E1 6a 4
4 mabinogion E2 5c ** 150
5 stumpy the dragonslayer
-
E2 5c 16
6 Health and Efficiency
-
E2 6a 3
  the main cliff
  Zig Zag
9 Short tree Chimney
-
S ** 23
10 Short tree chimney with pitch2 variation VS 1
11 Sea Panther E1 5a ** 126
12 Agapanthus E1 5b 6
13 Crown of Thorns S 4a * 144
14 Blackguard
-
HVS 5a 8
15 Zig Zag VS 4b * 168
16 Canol E1 5b ** 141
17 Jupiter E3 5b * 1
18 A Whiter Shade of Pale E2 5c ** 4
  Yellow Groove
20 Black Wall E2 5c ** 13
21 Scrog
-
E1 5b 5
22 Garlic groove
-
S 3c 5
23 Dill
-
HS 2
24 Rib and Slab VD ** 516
25 The Tickle
-
S 5
26 Castor
-
VS 4c 5
27 Black Mike
-
HVS 5a 2
28 Carlos
-
E2 5c * 8
29 Wedding Bell Arete E2 5b 1
30 Black Pig E3 6a * 4
31 Rift Wall VS 5a ** 193
32 Rift Wall (Direct Finish) HVS 5b ** 7
33 Orpheus E2 5b * 36
34 Black Pudding E3 5c * 4
35 Pedestal Route
-
VD 10
36 Slab and Groove
-
HVS 5a 5
37 Totally wired 9 E8 6b * 1
38 Bog Of The Eternal Stench E5 6b ** 9
39 The Heretic E4 6a * 6
40 Yellow Groove VS 4b ** 265
41 Blackhead
-
E3 6a * 5
42 Yellow Wall E2 5b ** 122
43 Fever HVS 5a 19
44 Petite Fleur
-
HS 4b * 57
45 Grooved Rib
-
HVS 5a 12
46 Rolling Stone
-
E1 5b 1
  cefn braich ridge back
48 Blubber Beasts
-
S 7
49 the rib route
-
VD * 32
  girdle traverses
51 The Black Belt
-
HS 4c ** 8
52 What a Jump
-
VS 4b 1
53 Mas Gato Negro E4 6b 2
54 Black Letter Day E1 5b 2

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