Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces S

A weird and stunning place © riddle

Crag features

Sisteron is a compact and approachable crag, consisting of a large but narrow fin of rock, with slabby, sunny routes on one side, and a few shady, steep routes on the other. The rock quality is excellent, though the slabby routes tend to have cleaner rock than the steep ones. As a destination, it's not extensive enough for a base, but makes a good alternative to Céüse if you're feeling like having an easy day and can't face the walk-in.

The crag mostly faces south although there are a few north-facing hard routes on La Faille. It is exposed to the wind and on cold, windy days can be quite unpleasant. If you're looking to climb on the sunny side, it would be wise to avoid hot days when the place turns into an oven.

If you're killing some time waiting for the sun to go down before you can get on the rock, there is an extensive and popular summer lido in the town.

If you're looking to climb on the steep, shady side, then any time except winter should provide reasonable conditions. It is also worth noting that early in the season, the north-facing wall may be a bit dirty.

Approach notes

Sisteron can be easily accessed from the A51 by exiting either at junction 22 (from the south) or 23 (from the north). The crag is clearly visible from the town; head north on the N85 to the first roundabout, and take the first exit onto the D951, this crosses the river, once on the other side, turn right and drive below the crag until you can reach parking places on the side of the road. Please don't park in the village.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Faille - South Face
2 Pinocchio 4c 16
3 Les Trois Marches 4c 23
4 Les Petites Lèvres 5c * 17
5 Les Grandes Lèvres 5a * 16
6 Chichou 5a * 29
7 Mario Brousse 5a * 8
8 La Peinarde 6a * 16
9 Géant Jaune 6a * 9
10 Tête en l'Air 5c * 7
11 Sur Prise Partie 6b+ * 15
12 Tétine Fétiche 5a ** 15
13 Starsky 5c ** 10
14 Lovy 6b ** 10
15 Le Compilateur 5c * 5
16 Débris du Cosmos 7b ** 2
17 Mascotte 6c ** 6
18 La Traversée des Amonites 6a *** 15
19 La Salsa des Démons 6c+ ** 4
20 Poussières d'Étoiles 6a+ 2
21 A Tatons les Tétons 6a+ 5
22 Shinobie 5c 6
23 Les Vertiges de la Souris 7a ** 2
  La Faille - North Face
25 Voyage 7b ** 1
26 La Vie à Deux 8a *  
27 Shimoda 7c * 1
28 2001 7c **  
29 Présence 8b **  
30 Pulsion 8a+ **  
31 Pulsion Project Project  
32 L'Autoroute de l'Enfer 8a+ **  
33 Super Crack 7a 11
34 Crack 6a+ 8
  South Face
36 Le Belvédère des Amoureux 6c+ *  
37 Le Fronton 6c *  
38 Carnage 7a+ * 1
39 Viol de Nuit 6a+ ** 8
40 Véga 4c ** 13
41 Merlin l'Enchanteur 5a ** 27
42 Les Mesons 5a ** 7
43 L'Épée de Damocles 5c ** 12
44 Au Nom de la Rose 6b+ ** 1
45 Excalibur 7a * 2
46 Les Doigts de Fée 6a * 8
47 Le Dièdre 5c ** 8
48 Quatsup Mon Œil 6a+ * 3
49 L'Etreinte du Pilier 6b ** 6
50 Clog 5c ** 3
51 Les Sous Doués Passent le Crux 5c ** 4
52 Mégalomaniaque 6c ** 3
53 Altaïr 4c ** 7
54 Deux et Demi 5c ** 4
55 Deux Trois Quarts 6a ** 9
56 Marthe, Jusque'Au Bout de Tes Rêves 5a ** 7
57 Denèbe 4c ** 2
58 Bambinette 6b+ *** 6
59 Bambino 6c ** 2
60 Le Braqueur de Poubelles 6b *** 4
61 Le Messie Récalcitrant 6c *** 1
62 L'Arapède 6c *** 1
63 L'Arapèdissime 6b+ **  
64 Les Cannelures 6b+ **  
65 Isa-Véga 6c+ ** 1
66 Un Pavillon d'Or 7a *  
67 Je Vous Salue Marie 7a+ *** 1
68 La Dulfer 6a *** 6
69 Percussions 6c+ *  
70 Le Jogger Fou 6c **  
71 Ballade au Bout du Monde 6c **  
72 Short en Hiver 6c ***  
73 Transdale Express 6b **  
74 Libre Errance 6a+ *** 2
75 La Traversée 5a *** 1
76 Guernica P1 5c *  
77 Guernica 7b+ **  
78 Les Poneys des Quatre Saisons 5c * 1
79 Du Rose Pour un Bébé Fluo 6b+ * 1
80 Un An du Vanances 5c *  

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