Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces S

Ray on Charles de Goal © henry.jeffreys

Crag features

Volx is a great crag for when it's raining and everything else is soaking since you can be sure to find something dry. There are a number of slabby sectors to the right of the Grottes, but they are not protected from the rain.

As mentioned, much of Volx is impervious to rain, so it's a popular spot on a wet day. You'll get plenty of sun too, though in the winter months you'll need to stick around on the right side of the Grotte to get the most rays. During the summer, Volx isn't as much as a sun trap as you might expect, the steepness of the rock acts as an excellent sun-shade and you can expect to find plenty of shade on the rock in the afternoon and the evening. 

Despite its limitations, Volx has seen some heavy traffic over the years. The result of this is some impressive polish. This is less of an issue on the steeper, juggy routes than it is on the slabbier ones, L'arche de Nausée in particular is now so polished that it is worth climbing to see just how polished it is.

There has been some stability work carried out on the cliff to protect the local buildings. As yet this has not impacted on any of the routes listed although it is not known what future plans there are.

Approach notes

Volx lies above the village of the same name, just off the D4096. At some lights, head up through the town then around to the right past the church and the mini fountain (drinking water). Turn right at the sign 'site d'escalade' and continue until you come to a second sign. Don't turn right up the hill as there is no parking, instead continue briefly and take a left into a car park. From here, return to the 'site d'escalade' sign and follow the road steeply up the hill for five minutes until you reach the crag. There's a toilet on site.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Grotte
2 Génération Écologie 7a+ * 1
3 Safe Sex 7b+ *  
4 Scandale 8a *  
5 Youpala 8a+ *  
6 Bienvenue au Club 7c+ *  
7 Zarbie 7b ** 4
8 Hot Spot 6b+ ** 33
9 Indulgence 7a ** 30
10 Traquenard 7b ** 8
11 Conan le Barbare 7a+ ** 6
12 Le Clown Entre les Dents 7c+ **  
13 L'Inversée Satanique 8a+  
14 20 Ans Après 7c+ 1
15 Oxygène 7c 2
16 Oxygène Directe 7c  
17 100% De Matière Grasse 7c+ ***  
18 Charles de Goal 7b *** 25
19 Zovirax 7c+ * 1
20 Zovirax Extension 8b *  
21 L'Empire des Sens 8a+ *  
22 Vague 8b *  
23 Spinoza 7b+ * 9
24 Spinoza Direct 8a ** 1
25 L'Invitation au Voyage 7c+ * 1
26 Hueco 7b+ *** 17
27 Shaoshing 8a *** 2
28 Théorème 8b **  
29 Gradiva 8a+ **  
30 L'Arche de Nausée 7a+ 5
31 La Nausée de l'Aube 7b  
32 Terminator 8b **  
33 Le Super Plafond 8c+ **  
34 Le Plafond de la Ligne Maginot 8c **  
35 Zig Zag 7c+ **  
36 Zig Zag Extension 8a **  
37 0% Matière Grise 7c ** 3
38 Zelig 8a **  
39 Zelig Crac Bottin 8b **  
40 Zorro 6c+ ** 7
41 Cajolynn 6a * 7
42 Siurana 6a+ ** 7
43 La Clara 5c * 3
  La Petite Grotte
45 Newlook 7b *  
46 Grottesque 8a+ ***  
47 Petit Test 8a **  
48 Samourai 7c+ *  
49 Riders on the Storm 7b *  
50 Consolidation 6b+ * 3
51 Les Estagnots 6b * 1
52 Bascule 6a * 1
  Other routes not in Rockfax
54 Voie d'anglais
-
6b+ 2
55 Motivation
-
6a+ 1
56 Tac et Toc Bacaro
-
6b 3
57 Laziza
-
6a 2
58 La Dalle En Pente 4a 3
59 La Minotte 4c 3
60 Casse Dalle 3+ 3
61 CM1 4c 4
62 La Moule 4c 3
63 College 5a 3
64 Route 3 Voie D'Initiation 4a 3
65 Route 4 Voie D'Initiation 4a 3
66 Route 6 Voie D'Initiation 4a 3
67 Route 7 Voie D'Initiation 4a 3
68 CM 1.5 * 6a 1
69 CM 2 * 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ethan